I'm a fan of Gorilla Glue Clear for PLA. It's much less brittle than CA, and it doesn't foam up like their regular formula.Hi al!,
Just finished reading up all the previous posts, and I figured I'd reach out in this forum since it dedicate to getting better at prop making using 3d printers. So I currently have a Longer Pro 3D printer, slicing with Simplify3D and i've been using PLA filament for most of my projects. I've currently been building a Naruto Ninja Scroll to hold some documents within it. The total build is gonna be a little bit over 3ft tall, hence I've been printing in components little by little. Originally I was relying on using a joint based system to connect it all and double down on its adhesiveness with super glue. But I'm starting to notice that the super glue isn't that strong of an adhesive for the object to maintain its connectivity as well as hold weight within in down the line.
So I was wondering if anyone has any solutions to how I can create a more adhesive unit that can hold weight? because my only idea as of now is to use car putty or body filler like how people used for pepakura based projects.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, down below are some attachments of what I currently have so far and the scroll i'm aiming to model it after !!
Hi al!,
Just finished reading up all the previous posts, and I figured I'd reach out in this forum since it dedicate to getting better at prop making using 3d printers. So I currently have a Longer Pro 3D printer, slicing with Simplify3D and i've been using PLA filament for most of my projects. I've currently been building a Naruto Ninja Scroll to hold some documents within it. The total build is gonna be a little bit over 3ft tall, hence I've been printing in components little by little. Originally I was relying on using a joint based system to connect it all and double down on its adhesiveness with super glue. But I'm starting to notice that the super glue isn't that strong of an adhesive for the object to maintain its connectivity as well as hold weight within in down the line.
So I was wondering if anyone has any solutions to how I can create a more adhesive unit that can hold weight? because my only idea as of now is to use car putty or body filler like how people used for pepakura based projects.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, down below are some attachments of what I currently have so far and the scroll i'm aiming to model it after !!
Im gonna try out Gorilla Glue and hopefully that makes the world of a difference. Im using a wood PLA mix so do you think that it would be better to use wood based gorilla glue or the clear kind of gorilla glue?? Also I did make the model using Rhino and Sketchup but im not too worried about the shape as im planning to wrap a cloth like fabric on it multiple times so it should hopefully hide most of the imperfections!I'm a fan of Gorilla Glue Clear for PLA. It's much less brittle than CA, and it doesn't foam up like their regular formula.
Are these pieces you're modeling yourself? If the stepped circle isn't intentional, you can definitely get a smooth circle shape with some adjustments to your model and/or export process.
Sounds like a pretty good method if it worked for a Land Rover snorkel reconstruction hahah, I'll give that a run if the gorilla glue gets method falls short for whatever reasonYou could also use an epoxy, like the JB Weld clear stuff. (Home Depot carries it- two ~8oz bottles) It’s not as strong as the regular gray stuff, but it’s plenty strong. And clear, but sanding it will turn it white of course.
Billed as a “five minute” epoxy, that’s just the working window. It cures overnight.
I bought it to reconstruct a rusted snorkel on my Land-Rover and I’ve found many other uses since. And pretty cheap for the volume you get.
I'd still go with the clear Gorilla Glue for wood-fill PLA. It bonds well to wood, but I don't know how well PVA glue bonds to PLA. I would guess not very well.Im gonna try out Gorilla Glue and hopefully that makes the world of a difference. Im using a wood PLA mix so do you think that it would be better to use wood based gorilla glue or the clear kind of gorilla glue?? Also I did make the model using Rhino and Sketchup but im not too worried about the shape as im planning to wrap a cloth like fabric on it multiple times so it should hopefully hide most of the imperfections!
Thanks for posting these! So my take-away is that warping and other artifacts on the supported surface are normal - would that be accurate?here is a good video on orientation
And this is a good one for support theory
That looks good!
He's going to love it!
I used Elegoo ABS-like rapid resin for the Silverhand grips I made, and it's not brittle, has a little bit of flex to it in fact. I don't know if it would work for a helmet, or not shatter if dropped, but I'm damn happy with the grips!