Mouse Droid & Baby Dianoga
- Thread starter Paul6700
- Start date
XerocTheCreator
New Member
That is freaking amazing!!! I love how you added greeblies in the inside compartment where dianoga will pop out from!
Sorry for the long delay, got busy with work and had to put this project on hold. But back now and making some progress.
Hear are the images of the original puppet:
This thing is pretty beat up and it has the original eye. The eyelid is long gone but you can see the wire that would have blinked the lid.
I used this puppet as my main point of inspiration, however I did make it smaller to fit inside the mouse. Started the sculpt with a piece of armature wire and a two-inch wooden ball for the eye. I will later vacuform the eye in plastic.
The next shots show the water-based clay sculpture as it progressed.
Removed the two main tentacles from the sculpture for molding.
I also cut off the eyelid to mold it seperately.
Hear are the images of the original puppet:
This thing is pretty beat up and it has the original eye. The eyelid is long gone but you can see the wire that would have blinked the lid.
I used this puppet as my main point of inspiration, however I did make it smaller to fit inside the mouse. Started the sculpt with a piece of armature wire and a two-inch wooden ball for the eye. I will later vacuform the eye in plastic.
The next shots show the water-based clay sculpture as it progressed.
Removed the two main tentacles from the sculpture for molding.
I also cut off the eyelid to mold it seperately.
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zjunlimited
Sr Member
This is frickin’ fantastic. Awesome craftsmanship and attention to detail.
Next up, I molded the outside of the Dianoga in Ultracal-30 and then used that mold to make the core. Used clay to create a thin skin inside the mold and then poured more stone to make the core.
The core was then molded in silicone so that I could make the plastic under skull for the Dianoga.
With all of these molds I was able to make foam latex skins and a pair of plastic under skulls.
The core was then molded in silicone so that I could make the plastic under skull for the Dianoga.
With all of these molds I was able to make foam latex skins and a pair of plastic under skulls.
The under skull is used to support the skin and to give hard attachment points for the pieces that will ultimately move. In this case, the Dianoga will be able to move the head left, right, up and down. It will also be able to move the eye and with any luck open and close the eyelid.
To get this critter to move, you need to cut away all the parts that you do not need.
So initially I have cut away the full length of the neck and the eyeball area. Also, I have cut a portion of the side of the skull away for what will be the pan & tilt mechanism.
I connected a servo to the top of the linear actuator with a mounting hub for the pan movement of the head and then zip tied a second servo to it for the tilt mechanisim, if you can call it that.
The crude but very simple pan & tilt mechanism.
The servo horn is then mounted into the under skull with epoxy putty and eventually screws.
I drilled a hole to access the screw for the servo horn.
As you can see the servos are a tight fit. Ultimately, I had to shorten the linear actuator to allow the servos to sit on top of the shaft. Next, will be the eyelid and eye ball servos.
To get this critter to move, you need to cut away all the parts that you do not need.
So initially I have cut away the full length of the neck and the eyeball area. Also, I have cut a portion of the side of the skull away for what will be the pan & tilt mechanism.
I connected a servo to the top of the linear actuator with a mounting hub for the pan movement of the head and then zip tied a second servo to it for the tilt mechanisim, if you can call it that.
The crude but very simple pan & tilt mechanism.
The servo horn is then mounted into the under skull with epoxy putty and eventually screws.
I drilled a hole to access the screw for the servo horn.
As you can see the servos are a tight fit. Ultimately, I had to shorten the linear actuator to allow the servos to sit on top of the shaft. Next, will be the eyelid and eye ball servos.
To make the eye, I started with the wooden hemisphere I used in the sculpture.
Vacuformed a piece of plastic over it and got this:
Cut it out and paint the inside to look like an eyeball. In this case I copied the special edition dragon-like eye scheme.
Next, I mounted the servo horn to the bottom of wooden hemisphere.
Mounted to a small servo and then glued the plastic eye onto the wooden hemisphere.
For the eyelid I decided to 3d print a ring and lever for the lid. I did a really simple design in Tinkercad that ended up up needing to be adjusted a couple times to get the best fit.
The lever part was discarded for a brass as it needed to be much thinner. I originally thought I could just sand it down to the size I needed.
I added a small brass bracket to the bottom of the ring to mount the servo and eye in the center of the ring. It turned out I burned up the micro servo testing it against the foam skin, so I opted for a slightly larger digital servo.
Figuring out how it was going to attach to the under skull took a little time, I used a chopped up skin to make sure things would fit within it.
Attached the eye mechanism to the under skull just to see how much room I have for the blink servo.
Once I figure that out, I made a servo mount with the printer.
Using the Hitec D85MG micro servo for all of the other servos, so seemed like a good idea to stay with it.
Then mounted it to the rest of the eye mechanism. and use a bit of wire for the attachment to the brass, just so I could test it.
Thanks for looking!
Vacuformed a piece of plastic over it and got this:
Cut it out and paint the inside to look like an eyeball. In this case I copied the special edition dragon-like eye scheme.
Next, I mounted the servo horn to the bottom of wooden hemisphere.
Mounted to a small servo and then glued the plastic eye onto the wooden hemisphere.
For the eyelid I decided to 3d print a ring and lever for the lid. I did a really simple design in Tinkercad that ended up up needing to be adjusted a couple times to get the best fit.
The lever part was discarded for a brass as it needed to be much thinner. I originally thought I could just sand it down to the size I needed.
I added a small brass bracket to the bottom of the ring to mount the servo and eye in the center of the ring. It turned out I burned up the micro servo testing it against the foam skin, so I opted for a slightly larger digital servo.
Figuring out how it was going to attach to the under skull took a little time, I used a chopped up skin to make sure things would fit within it.
Attached the eye mechanism to the under skull just to see how much room I have for the blink servo.
Once I figure that out, I made a servo mount with the printer.
Using the Hitec D85MG micro servo for all of the other servos, so seemed like a good idea to stay with it.
Then mounted it to the rest of the eye mechanism. and use a bit of wire for the attachment to the brass, just so I could test it.
Thanks for looking!
