molotow liquid chrome pens and spray paints

Well, I tried the Spaz Stix clear coat. It had some weird crackling effect on the silver. See the images below with one pre-clearcoat. Didn’t dull it much, but definitely did something else altogether. Going to retry it again tonight. Strangely enough one of the bottles recommends 2K clear

Kind of looks like the aging on the Mandalorian helmet!
 
Well, I tried the Spaz Stix clear coat. It had some weird crackling effect on the silver. See the images below with one pre-clearcoat. Didn’t dull it much, but definitely did something else altogether. Going to retry it again tonight. Strangely enough one of the bottles recommends 2K clear
Warm up the spray cans in warm water. I had the same problem and the warm clearcoat covered much nicer.
 
Well, heating the can worked, but unfortunately it dulls the finish. Not anywhere near as badly as regular clear coats, but enough that it doesn't look anywhere near as cool.
 
Here's a photo of something I painted yesterday. Molotow Chrome with 2-part auto lacquer on top:

View attachment 1060205

The stuff is so reflective that it creates lens flares and blinds you when you work with it!

Amazing finish there.

I have been trying hard to get the best out of Molotow with my Iwata HP C, 17 psi, mixed with MR Hobby Solvent for enamels or applied straight from the tube I always get small dust dots sticked to the paint. Being chrome they are quite easy to spot.

I tried painting in a well ventilated area, a room that was previously water sprayed and I always get those dammed spots while spraying.

I know the ink has some king of gum component, that is why its so sticky, but guys have you found a way to spray a flat clean surface with no dirt or spots? I'm quite desperate, I need a clean finish.

BTW While spraying and testing I've found a top nice trick. If you've just painted your item with Molotow and the finish is kind cloudy or not so shiny: as soon as you finished spraying with Molotow, spray over it with a coat Mr Hobby Color Thinner for enamels. A couple of passes to wet the Molotow. It will dissolve the paint surface and create an complete evenness in the surface, then will dry to the highest reflectivity possible.
 
I'll try that tip next time I use Molotow.

I just got in some Alumaluster... it was horrendously expensive, but I figure that it's an investment that will last me a few years, considering how rare it is on this side of the pond. Also... I did some calculations and it's actually CHEAPER than Molotow- at least if you don't buy the smallest quantities!
 
[QUOTE = "spinner 44, message: 5054502, membre: 600"]
Fin incroyable là-bas.

J'ai fait de mon mieux pour tirer le meilleur parti de Molotow avec mon Iwata HP C, 17 psi, mélangé avec du solvant MR Hobby pour les émaux ou appliqué directement du tube.Je fais toujours coller de petits points de poussière sur la peinture. Étant chromés, ils sont assez faciles à repérer.

J'ai essayé de peindre dans un endroit bien aéré, une pièce qui était auparavant arrosée d'eau et j'obtiens toujours ces points de barrage pendant la pulvérisation.

Je sais que l'encre a un composant roi de gomme, c'est pourquoi elle est si collante, mais les gars avez-vous trouvé un moyen de pulvériser une surface plane et propre sans saleté ni taches? Je suis assez désespéré, j'ai besoin d'une finition propre.

BTW Pendant la pulvérisation et les tests, j'ai trouvé une bonne astuce. Si vous venez de peindre votre article avec Molotow et que la finition est plutôt trouble ou moins brillante: dès que vous avez fini de pulvériser avec Molotow, vaporisez dessus une couche de diluant pour émaux Mr Hobby Color Thinner. Quelques passes pour mouiller le Molotow. Il dissoudra la surface de la peinture et créera une uniformité complète de la surface, puis séchera à la réflectivité la plus élevée possible.
[/CITATION]

Bonjour, avez-vous toutes les photos de l'émail plus mince?
Thank's
 
You options, verified and tested by several folks on the RPF, when it comes to clear-coating not just Molotow, but almost ALL "chome effect" paints are as follows (in my own preferred order):

  • 2-part Urethane-based Automotive lacquer. House of Kolor makes a good one but there are others. SUPER durable but expensive, and you need an airbrush. Also, rather toxic, so you MUST use a proper filtered breathing mask!

  • Water-based Urethane Clear. Vallejo makes one that is almost is good as the auto lacquer but not quite as durable. Best applied with an airbrush but it DOES auto-level a bit if you use a brush. Tends to clog the airbrush after a few minutes, so not good for heavy jobs. (I think that Future Floor Polish might be similar, but I've never tried it.)

  • Alclad Klear Kote Gloss. Needs an airbrush. It's OK, but NOT entirely stable. Repeated handling will make the oils in your skin react with the coating and it will go slightly tacky. It doesn't seem to affect the coating much, but it feels a bit irritating when playing around with a sticky prop.
Sorry, but I have been looking for a good top coat, but do not want to buy the automotive stuff, and I've had the same problem with Alclad's Klear Kote (great results visually but sticky/tacky). By Vallejo's water based urethane, do you mean their gloss polyurethane varnish?
 
Sorry, but I have been looking for a good top coat, but do not want to buy the automotive stuff, and I've had the same problem with Alclad's Klear Kote (great results visually but sticky/tacky). By Vallejo's water based urethane, do you mean their gloss polyurethane varnish?
Yes, Vallejo's gloss poly is the one I meant. But be warned- it's nowhere near as durable as an automotive.

Alclad has another clear that seems to be more stable called "Aqua Gloss". I've used it on one or two small pieces so far and it seems pretty good, so that's another alternative. (Note that I haven't given it a full test run yet.)
 
Yes, Vallejo's gloss poly is the one I meant. But be warned- it's nowhere near as durable as an automotive.

Alclad has another clear that seems to be more stable called "Aqua Gloss". I've used it on one or two small pieces so far and it seems pretty good, so that's another alternative. (Note that I haven't given it a full test run yet.)
Thanks!
 
Yes, Vallejo's gloss poly is the one I meant. But be warned- it's nowhere near as durable as an automotive.

Alclad has another clear that seems to be more stable called "Aqua Gloss". I've used it on one or two small pieces so far and it seems pretty good, so that's another alternative. (Note that I haven't given it a full test run yet.)
I tried vallejo's polyurethane gloss varnish on spoons next to Alclad's klear koat, and it seems to create a slight bit more of a haze from the mirror finish. Don't get me wrong, it's still reflective just a bit hazier.

Just for some other info, I've tried spaz stix ultimate gloss clear coat for mirror chrome (as another forum suggested it works best) but it produces a bad haze imo.
 
I just saw this ad for a chrome nail polish on my Facebook feed. Is nail polish ok for plastic model kits?


 
I just saw this ad for a chrome nail polish on my Facebook feed. Is nail polish ok for plastic model kits?

Check youtube for reviews on chrome nail polish. It seems to have a lot of the same problems as other chrome products, hard to apply evenly, dulls quickly with handling, dulls with topcoat application etc. And certainly not as chrome-y as the molotow pens.
 
So between Alclad Klear Kote and the Aqua Gloss, what is the verdict? Which one is better for a top coat?

How do they compare as far as finish, durability, and handling?
 
i've used the alclad klear kote, very happy with the result, as for durability, the very small amount i have touched the finished pieces it has not dulled or damaged it.
i will be using this method from now on, if it aint broke don't fix it. i did find a light coat followed by a wet coat gave the best results (the chrome), it is tricky to avoid dry areas outside the area where you are spraying
 
Last edited:
Just realised that no one has posted about the new Mirror Paint from Stuart Semple's Culture Hustle- the same people that make the Blackest Black paint, which is a really, REALLY matt black, there's a video and I've seen a couple of reviews, but I'm going to have to get some to test on a gloss black base, this could be the one!

 
Just realised that no one has posted about the new Mirror Paint from Stuart Semple's Culture Hustle- the same people that make the Blackest Black paint, which is a really, REALLY matt black, there's a video and I've seen a couple of reviews, but I'm going to have to get some to test on a gloss black base, this could be the one!

This looks very promising indeed. I wonder how it holds up to touch and handling though. His video didn't cover durability much.
 
Looks very over-hyped to me, in terms of 'chromenicity'. It does have a nice metallic look, as do other paints which I'm sure would look just as good side-by-side. But the pictures on their website still don't have the mirror-like qualities of Molotow. Viewed up close they reveal lots of horrible brush strokes.
Also, £30 for 15ml? You can get a Molotow Liquid Chrome refill of 30ml for £17!

mirrordog_1024x1024@2x.jpg
 
Looks very over-hyped to me, in terms of 'chromenicity'. It does have a nice metallic look, as do other paints which I'm sure would look just as good side-by-side. But the pictures on their website still don't have the mirror-like qualities of Molotow. Viewed up close they reveal lots of horrible brush strokes.
Also, £30 for 15ml? You can get a Molotow Liquid Chrome refill of 30ml for £17!

View attachment 1317339
Yeah, I'm not convinced. It looked cloudy to me. From those vids I'd place it below Alclad chrome.
But in the interest of fairness I'd like to see it airbrushed over a properly prepared surface before writing it off. Though as you say, Molotow is half the price, so I won't be testing it!
 
Back
Top