You can do the molotow on the primer directly. The thing about molotow is that it doesn't need a gloss or black coat under it to be reflective. The helmet ears i did in the post above we're doesn't by directly painting molotow on to the grey primer, then giving it a full day to dry. If your work place is dusty at all cover the drying parts with a clear tote or something clean so no dust gets on the pieces. After a day or so come back and I sprayed one coat of aquagloss klearkote onto the parts.I am looking to paint 3D a printed sword with Molotow. I have painted it with filler primer and sanded smooth. Should I paint it with Alcoa’s gloss black first and then paint with Molotow or just paint the Molotow onto the filler primer directly. I thought I heard the black gloss makes it more reflective.
Not sure if someone already did this but I wanted to share. I wrote to Molotow asking if they sell a clear coat for protecting their Liquid Chrome
2-part Urethane-based Automotive lacquer. House of Kolor makes a good one but there are others.
I've only tried the UFC35, so I couldn't say, but I think that's supposed to be their most premium clear. I bough 1 liter the summer before last and I've only used maybe 20% of the can! The stuff lasts pretty long. (I'm pretty sure the expiration date will be long gone way before I can even use half of it.)Did you notice differences between HOK UC35 and UFC35?
Anyone ever try Spaz Stix clear coat? I saw they sell one now to go with their chrome paint.