molotow liquid chrome pens and spray paints

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Some resin Fett ears I just painted with Molotow...
 
I am looking to paint 3D a printed sword with Molotow. I have painted it with filler primer and sanded smooth. Should I paint it with Alcoa’s gloss black first and then paint with Molotow or just paint the Molotow onto the filler primer directly. I thought I heard the black gloss makes it more reflective.
 
I am looking to paint 3D a printed sword with Molotow. I have painted it with filler primer and sanded smooth. Should I paint it with Alcoa’s gloss black first and then paint with Molotow or just paint the Molotow onto the filler primer directly. I thought I heard the black gloss makes it more reflective.
You can do the molotow on the primer directly. The thing about molotow is that it doesn't need a gloss or black coat under it to be reflective. The helmet ears i did in the post above we're doesn't by directly painting molotow on to the grey primer, then giving it a full day to dry. If your work place is dusty at all cover the drying parts with a clear tote or something clean so no dust gets on the pieces. After a day or so come back and I sprayed one coat of aquagloss klearkote onto the parts.

Now I've done the klearkote as short as within 2 hours of the molotow drying and it came out fine, but it is a dangerous game so I don't recommend it!

Also, the most important thing to me was DONT TOUCH THE MOLOTOW OR TRY TO BUFF IT!! You will ruin the finish and it just gets all streaky and messed up. Don't touch the parts with molotow at all until the Klear Kote is dried.
 
Thank you for your response PropReplicator 2. A few additional questions. Can you tell me what PSI you used? I tested 20 and 25. The 20 seemed to produce more shine for me. How long do you wait for it to dry before applying the clear coat? Based on what Adam Savage had used and some comments on this thread, I was planning on clear coating it with Alclad Gloss Klear Kate ALC 310. Is this what you used?

Thanks
 
[QUOTE = "mattycsi, post: 4484373, membre: 67856"]
C'est une très belle finition. Avec quel jaune as-tu enduit?
[/CITATION]


I use Pebeo Vitrail, but the products is not goog... beacause too much cleaning aerograph
 
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Bonjour à tous.

Je reviens sur le forum après quelques problèmes de santé.

Quand j'utilise molotow à l'aérogaphe, j'ai toujours un léger souffle ... avez-vous ce problème?

Quelle taille de bus / aiguille avez-vous sur l'aérographe? quelle pression? et le diluant?


Ma configuration:
diluant loisir
pression de couleur: 40psi
buse / aiguille: 0,2mm

Désolé pour mon anglais je suis français

Bonne estime de la france
 
For those of you that want to use Molotow for gold shades, here's a current project- Gamora's switchblade double-dagger from Avengers: Infinity War.

There aren't really any good mirror pale brass sprays out there, so I used Molotow and hit it with some Alclad Gold Candy. (Waited about an hour to apply after the chrome.) Then a couple hours later I hit it with a 2-part urethane-based clear automotive lacquer.

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I also did a test with Tamiya Yellow Clear and Orange Clear (about a 5-2 ratio) instead of the Alclad and that looked OK too, but ever-so-slightly more saturated, and it killed the mirror finish just a tad.
 
Not sure if someone already did this but I wanted to share. I wrote to Molotow asking if they sell a clear coat for protecting their Liquid Chrome ink pens and I got this reply. Interesting info.

-------------

Hello,

thank you for your message and your interest in our Molotow™ products.

Our Liquid Chrome ink is an effect paint. All effect paints are not overpaintable.
As soon as an overlay comes on it, the effect loses its glossy effect.

There are 2 categories that often confounds:

Effect paint:
the effect sprays are only suitable for decorative purposes. The varnish is not resistant to abrasion (not touch proof).
The paint properties are characterized by the fact that the shimmering pigments are placed on the surface so that the effect can also be reflected.
As soon as a layer of varnish is sprayed over it (such as a clear coat), it loses its effect because the shimmering pigments are pressed down again. Result: it remains a dull basic color (in this case a dull grey).

metallic paint:
Metallic paints are more resistant. They are often used in the automobile industry. In the paint tiny tiny metal particles are already processed and firmly bonded to the base paint.
Metallic paints can be fixed without any problems with an clear coat.

We have seen, many model builders use an clear coat which seems to be compatible with our Liquid Chrome™ ink.
Unfortunately, we have no experience with this product. We recommend to do a test before the definitive application.

Here is a link:
Alclad Klear Kote Gloss (120ml)

We hope we helped you with this information.

Should you need any further assistance or help, please feel free to contact us.

Have a nice day & best regards
Molotow Distribution
 
Not sure if someone already did this but I wanted to share. I wrote to Molotow asking if they sell a clear coat for protecting their Liquid Chrome

You options, verified and tested by several folks on the RPF, when it comes to clear-coating not just Molotow, but almost ALL "chome effect" paints are as follows (in my own preferred order):

  • 2-part Urethane-based Automotive lacquer. House of Kolor makes a good one but there are others. SUPER durable but expensive, and you need an airbrush. Also, rather toxic, so you MUST use a proper filtered breathing mask!

  • Water-based Urethane Clear. Vallejo makes one that is almost is good as the auto lacquer but not quite as durable. Best applied with an airbrush but it DOES auto-level a bit if you use a brush. Tends to clog the airbrush after a few minutes, so not good for heavy jobs. (I think that Future Floor Polish might be similar, but I've never tried it.)

  • Alclad Klear Kote Gloss. Needs an airbrush. It's OK, but NOT entirely stable. Repeated handling will make the oils in your skin react with the coating and it will go slightly tacky. It doesn't seem to affect the coating much, but it feels a bit irritating when playing around with a sticky prop.

Note that the urethane clears are a bit sensitive to peeling, since they are essentially a plastic film- it's why they preserve the mirror finish of the chrome, because they don't react with the chrome particles of the paint and simply go on top.


Here's a photo of something I painted yesterday. Molotow Chrome with 2-part auto lacquer on top:

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The stuff is so reflective that it creates lens flares and blinds you when you work with it!
 
That's the stuff! Many in this thread (and I) have had success with the ALC 310 over Molotow. Just needs time to cure between painting and coating or it won't cure properly. I didn't realize it was enamel based until reading that thread though!
 
Did you notice differences between HOK UC35 and UFC35?
I've only tried the UFC35, so I couldn't say, but I think that's supposed to be their most premium clear. I bough 1 liter the summer before last and I've only used maybe 20% of the can! The stuff lasts pretty long. (I'm pretty sure the expiration date will be long gone way before I can even use half of it.)
 
Has anybody tried this stuff for chrome and gold?
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Vid here

Looks pretty good, lots of other vids with consistent results out there. I just cant find anything about its hardiness or clear coating options.
 
Well, I tried the Spaz Stix clear coat. It had some weird crackling effect on the silver. See the images below with one pre-clearcoat. Didn’t dull it much, but definitely did something else altogether. Going to retry it again tonight. Strangely enough one of the bottles recommends 2K clear
 

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