molotow liquid chrome pens and spray paints

a fellow board member (fimmo) had success with one of my RA-7 heads, this is the largest object i've seen done with molotow,

the trick i hear is not using an airbrush for larger objects. he used a HVLP spray gun and i believe the head took only one refill to do.

for the cost i would be very happy with this finish, i believe working fast is also must. .. ... .. .. all images used with permission.
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before weathering
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i don't think so, i've been trying to get him to try that alclad klear kote stuff, the stuff i've tried it on it hasn't really dulled it in my opinion and certainly gives you more confidence in handling it.
 
I use this product as well for mine chroming projects. It dries incredibly fast due to the alcohol base in it. For larger surfaces, a HVLP paint gun is essential to get as much coverage as quick as possible. Once the chrome has dried for at least 6 hours, I due a light dusting of Aqua Gloss, and once that light dusting is tacky, I do a thicker coat. I let that flash for about an hour or 2 and then I come back in with 2K auto grade urethane clear coat and repeat the steps I did for the Aqua Gloss. The Aqua Gloss dulls the chrome effect at first, but the 2K clear coat bring it right back. You can also tint the 2K to give it colors like gold or mirrored red, blue, green, etc.

I followed this guys video and it worked exactly as he said it would.
 
At 20 bucks for that kind of finish and it's durable and it can be cleared? If this Duralumen turns out to be as good as the stuff on his page, this thing is gonna sweep the market and I can't wait to get my hands on it!
 
I've been using UFC35 (I think it's called) from House of Kolor. Goes through an airbrush easily and preserves the metallic shine almost perfectly. (Just be thorough with the cleanup afterward... and do wear a proper filtered breathing mask! Goggles too if you can.)
I coated some Molotow with some gloss clear kote and it’s seems till still be fragile, almost tacky. After the fact I’m reading it’s not always stable. Would you use ufc35 on that? Imagine you wouldn’t put the ufc strait on the Molotow?
 
True Molotov doesn't need it. It looked best on Gloss Black base ALC-305 from Alclad for me when airbrushed for a thin layer. That black is applied very thin with an airbrush and super solid. Tried many surfaces including none, just 1000 grid wet sanded. Molotov's look is fantastic, but what ever I do it will stay somewhat soft. Dried in my oven at 114F overnight let it sit for a week etc before coating it. Without sealing it is completely useless even after weeks of drying it will become grey at the slightest touch. I got very close and thought I had it solved for my Memory orb build by drying it in the oven and coating with Klear Kote, but in the end parts that get handled with some pressure show that it is not truly hardened. I will keep parts that are not touched that much in Molotov, but for buttons and parts that are more exposed to mechanical stress the Alclad route seems best
What about top coating over the Klear kote with something harder? I’m having the same issue with the Klear kote not Harding and trying To find a fix. Like maybe a 2k clear coat? I saw a couple folks did that over aqua gloss but wondering what it would to to Klear kote over Molotow?
 
I coated some Molotow with some gloss clear kote and it’s seems till still be fragile, almost tacky. After the fact I’m reading it’s not always stable. Would you use ufc35 on that? Imagine you wouldn’t put the ufc strait on the Molotow?
Alclad's clear kote (if that's what you're talking about) is awful. It gets tacky with handling (possibly because it was made for static model kits that sit on shelves). The only Alclad clear I would use is "Aqua Gloss", but even that will not withstand heavy handling of a prop.

Molotow needs a few days to fully cure before adding a clear. (Alclad can be clear coated after a couple hours, usually.)

If you're going to use an automotive urethane clear (likeufc35) there's no need for the Aqua. Just put it straight over the molotow, but make sure it's had a few days (at least) to cure. Also make sure you're mixing the proper ration of hardener and reducer with the UFC35. I would imagine that UFC35 will harden over a 'tacky' kleat kote, but I haven't tried. If the only other option is to strip completely and start over, it might be worth a shot to try, but proceed with caution. Note however, that if you have a heavy layer of Molotow that hasn't cured underneath, the automotive clear will probably stop it from ever doing so, which, might make it susceptible to pressure (i.e. fingerprints) when handling.
 
Alclad's clear kote (if that's what you're talking about) is awful. It gets tacky with handling (possibly because it was made for static model kits that sit on shelves). The only Alclad clear I would use is "Aqua Gloss", but even that will not withstand heavy handling of a prop.

Molotow needs a few days to fully cure before adding a clear. (Alclad can be clear coated after a couple hours, usually.)

If you're going to use an automotive urethane clear (likeufc35) there's no need for the Aqua. Just put it straight over the molotow, but make sure it's had a few days (at least) to cure. Also make sure you're mixing the proper ration of hardener and reducer with the UFC35. I would imagine that UFC35 will harden over a 'tacky' kleat kote, but I haven't tried. If the only other option is to strip completely and start over, it might be worth a shot to try, but proceed with caution. Note however, that if you have a heavy layer of Molotow that hasn't cured underneath, the automotive clear will probably stop it from ever doing so, which, might make it susceptible to pressure (i.e. fingerprints) when handling.
Any experience with the spray Max 2 part spray urethane clear coat? Im wondering if that would be similar to the ufc35. I’m in Norway and the ufc 35 is quite pricey here. I won’t be doing chromed projects much after this one so I’m hesitant to drop big bucks on a liter of the stuff.
 
Any experience with the spray Max 2 part spray urethane clear coat? Im wondering if that would be similar to the ufc35. I’m in Norway and the ufc 35 is quite pricey here. I won’t be doing chromed projects much after this one so I’m hesitant to drop big bucks on a liter of the stuff.
Hallo! (Sweden here.)

No experience with that, sorry. I would guess it'd be OK as long as it's a urethane clear. I use uFC35 on most things that need heavy durability, chrome or not. One liter of that stuff will last you a loooong time! (The base clear and the reducer seem to be OK even after 2-3 years, but you might need to get more hardener because it goes bad after a while once the bottle is opened.) I bought the UFC beacuse it was the easiest to get hold of back when I needed it. I'm still on that first batch- it's still OK after 3-4 years! (No idea how long the official shelf life is.)
 
So you haven’t had any trouble with peeling if the Molotow is cured? The urethane adheres well to the bare Molotow? (On my project The chromed areas are mostly flat surfaces)
 

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