Moebius classic 1978 battlestar galactica build

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Escape068

Well-Known Member
You will be surprised how much easier it is to lay out!! Because the FO stays in place I don't glue the FO until I have to. This allows me to prime and light block. Once all that is finished I just push a little of the FO out further to expose an nice clean piece. The only paint that will get on the FO will be final coat. The reason for this is that when primer and paint get on the FO they become brittle and if you keep handling it they tend to break off or bend especially the .25mm. This eliminates a lot of that happening and any FO that doesn't light up evenly

I have to admit to not having done any heavy FO since the ISD adventure :lol but I certainly plan to incorporate your methods on the next for sure:thumbsup The PG Falcon will be fairly littered with it and the way Bandai's are engineered, doing it your way is a must. Needless to say, going forward it's that way or no way :thumbsup
 

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gt350pony66

Sr Member
yep, had plenty on the ISD that were uneven...listen me...I had A LOT. it's awesome how we all learn things from each other here, I love this!
You will be surprised how much easier it is to lay out!! Because the FO stays in place I don't glue the FO until I have to. This allows me to prime and light block. Once all that is finished I just push a little of the FO out further to expose an nice clean piece. The only paint that will get on the FO will be final coat. The reason for this is that when primer and paint get on the FO they become brittle and if you keep handling it they tend to break off or bend especially the .25mm. This eliminates a lot of that happening and any FO that doesn't light up evenly
 

Escape068

Well-Known Member
That is why this is such a good forum. I learn a lot from all you guys and it makes it fun to do.

The tubes also work as good wire management and LED holders!!


yep, had plenty on the ISD that were uneven...listen me...I had A LOT. it's awesome how we all learn things from each other here, I love this!
 

INVAR

Sr Member
Wow. I think I am going to have to build me another Moebius BSG and come back to this thread and try my hand at lighting it! Outstanding!

So I guess it is true, the three dimensions of joy in kit building is: building the kit, lighting the kit and painting the kit. Up until recently I've only ever known the joys and nightmares of building and painting.

Base will be cool, and the FO advise WILL be taken under consideration when I begin threading it into my Zvezda. I did not know .25mm FO got brittle after primer. Good to know!
 

Escape068

Well-Known Member
Hi Invar,

Thanks for the compliments!

I noticed if you have the FO sticking out and are still working on those parts and keep accidently touching the FO it will bend or eventually break even if it's not painted. The biggest reason is probably because it's glued in place and the constant bending back and fourth will put stress right where it comes out of the hole. When primed especially with a lacquer primer they get brittle and break even easier. The .25mm is more delicate than the .50mm but it happens to that also.

With the BSG build I avoided that by not gluing the FO in until I seal up that part of the ship. This enables me to push out a little of the FO to keep a clean unbent piece after I putty and prime what I can on that section. By using the plastic tubes to organize how the FO will run I can cut the FO to the approximate sizes and add a few inches extra to be able to push out and keep a clean piece sticking out until I'm ready to glue them in place.

I also found that the FO that comes bundled in a jacket with 64 strands of .25mm or 32 strands of .50mm is much easier to work with than the FO that is on those small spools. The FO bundle in the jacket is much straighter when you remove the FO. The FO on the spool always curls up making it very difficult to work with. Also with the bundle if you need 12 inches you cut the cable and now you have 64 or 32 strands already cut. You have to slice the cable long ways to remove all the strands but that is not too hard to do. The FiberOpticStore.com has a FAQ guide on how to remove the stands from the jacket https://thefiberopticstore.com/faq/how-do-i-cut-off-the-protective-jacket-off-the-cable/



Wow. I think I am going to have to build me another Moebius BSG and come back to this thread and try my hand at lighting it! Outstanding!

So I guess it is true, the three dimensions of joy in kit building is: building the kit, lighting the kit and painting the kit. Up until recently I've only ever known the joys and nightmares of building and painting.

Base will be cool, and the FO advise WILL be taken under consideration when I begin threading it into my Zvezda. I did not know .25mm FO got brittle after primer. Good to know!
 
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INVAR

Sr Member
Hi Invar,
I also found that the FO that comes bundled in a jacket with 64 strands of .25mm or 32 strands of .50mm is much easier to work with than the FO that is on those small spools. The FO bundle in the jacket is much straighter when you remove the FO. The FO on the spool always curls up making it very difficult to work with. Also with the bundle if you need 12 inches you cut the cable and now you have 64 or 32 strands already cut. You have to slice the cable long ways to remove all the strands but that is not too hard to do. The FiberOpticStore.com has a FAQ guide on how to remove the stands from the jacket https://thefiberopticstore.com/faq/how-do-i-cut-off-the-protective-jacket-off-the-cable/

Thanks. I'll look into it!

tenor.gif
 

gt350pony66

Sr Member
Looks awesome dude! You have an engineering degree...don't you? :lol:thumbsup
 

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Escape068

Well-Known Member
Well you may not have an engineering degree, but I bet you could breeze through one! :thumbsup

You are too funny. you always make me laugh!!

What a pain gluing the bottom along with the 2 launch bays and getting all the wires to sit in and not get caught up on the inside edge. I used 15 minute epoxy on the pins and both blocks from the front and back. After that was set I used Tamiya thin cement and went around all the edges. Should have used 30 minute epoxy if I had it. I would not have had to rush as much.
 

gt350pony66

Sr Member
the light has to get to it to set it, but for the bond, most times you can peel it back if you need to. great for holding down wires and things that will never have pressure on them. inner structure stuff, stuff you need to hold right away and such. I use this, regular glue and super gel for resin stuff. it's great for mock up where you can't or don't want to use a bunch of tape.
How strong is the bond.....comparable to epoxy and Tamiya thin cement?

How does it work if the light can't shine on areas like the inside pins?
 

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Escape068

Well-Known Member
Not for permanent bond unless tacking wires down. I needed the 30 minute epoxy but just made it with the 15 minute. The directions have you attaching both landing bays and the bottom together. You have to attach the landing bays to the bottom middle support first then attach all that to the ship which includes the center opening with all that glue surface and the 3 legs on each landing bay.


the light has to get to it to set it, but for the bond, most times you can peel it back if you need to. great for holding down wires and things that will never have pressure on them. inner structure stuff, stuff you need to hold right away and such. I use this, regular glue and super gel for resin stuff. it's great for mock up where you can't or don't want to use a bunch of tape.
 

gt350pony66

Sr Member
It's good for things like keeping a bundle of FO in a collector tube especially if it's loose (only a few FO) and you can always still pull it out. your organizer tubes to the model, holding LED's in place...no wait time. but no, I wouldn't use it for big areas that need to be permanent...although, if you have something that you may need to take apart again for whatever reason...it's pretty forgiving and won't ruin parts.
Not for permanent bond unless tacking wires down. I needed the 30 minute epoxy but just made it with the 15 minute. The directions have you attaching both landing bays and the bottom together. You have to attach the landing bays to the bottom middle support first then attach all that to the ship which includes the center opening with all that glue surface and the 3 legs on each landing bay.
 

Escape068

Well-Known Member
I usually use a little CA glue on the tubes to place them. When I'm certain they are in a good spot I go back and apply some epoxy and then they are hard to remove. I'm going to try laser bond.....whey do you buy your?

It's good for things like keeping a bundle of FO in a collector tube especially if it's loose (only a few FO) and you can always still pull it out. your organizer tubes to the model, holding LED's in place...no wait time. but no, I wouldn't use it for big areas that need to be permanent...although, if you have something that you may need to take apart again for whatever reason...it's pretty forgiving and won't ruin parts.
 

gt350pony66

Sr Member
well, they used to have it at walmart, rite aid, walgreens and such, but then I couldn't find it anywhere so I get it on line now. I think you can get 4 tubes or 6. last time I got like 6 and that will last me a good long time.
I usually use a little CA glue on the tubes to place them. When I'm certain they are in a good spot I go back and apply some epoxy and then they are hard to remove. I'm going to try laser bond.....whey do you buy your?

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there is another similar product called "5 second fix" not as good, black tube looks like pen...avoid that

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pulselogo_tag1.jpg
4 tubes for 9.99
 

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