Revell 1/2700 Star Destroyer Build Thread


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I recently ordered the Revell 1/2700 Star Destroyer from an Amazon seller. It'll be a few weeks until I receive it (I'm in the US, and the seller is in the UK). Until then, I'm gathering tools & supplies. I ordered a fiber optic lighting kit on ebay. Yesterday I received my pin vice (which I will use to drill the fiber optic holes), my sprue cutters will arrive later today, and some extra thin model glue will arrive later in the week.

I will of course be painting it. I'm just doing things in stages. I plan to install the fiber optics, paint it, then trim the fibers after its painted.

I have a few questions, though.

First, what size drill bit should I use for the fiber optics? The kit has .5mm fibers. Should I use .5mm bits, or will the hole be too tight? Should I use .6mm bits? I want the holes to be snug enough that the fibers won't fall out before I can glue them in place, but I also don't want to fight to thread them through.

Second, can anyone recommend a decent airbrush for a beginner? Considering going that route, but I've never used one.
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Welcome aboard the RPF.

I don't know about the drill size, but the Paasche model H is a good single action airbrush. Fairly easy to use and clean.
Welcome aboard the RPF.

I don't know about the drill size, but the Paasche model H is a good single action airbrush. Fairly easy to use and clean.

Is single action the recommended type for beginners? I've heard you get far more control with dual action, but is that too much of a learning curve for a beginner?
It is really a matter of preference.

I had an old Badger dual action and found cleaning to be a pain. I now have a model H and enjoy it a lot more, but it is really just a matter of opinion.

If you do a search for 'airbrush recommendation' you can find several threads on the subject.
Yeah you'll want a slightly larger drill bit- the best way to determine is by experiment. You can get packs of varied sub-mm bits for fairly cheap. You'll also want a pin vice to do them by hand - using a high speed drill will generally melt rather than drill through styrene and you will have no control over the final size of the hole.

Or you can go the route I took and make yourself a low speed frankendrill which worked a charm My 1/2700 Star Destroyer
with 0.5mm fiber optic cable you should definitely drill 0.6mm otherwise threading is a nightmare. in some holes, the fiber optic cable will sit quite loosely and can occasionally slip out again, but they can be easily fixed with a strip of adhesive tape unless you stick them together. do not use hot glue, superglue or any type of solvent-based glue for gluing. With hot glue, the cables melt immediately. Superglue makes the cables so stiff that they break off at the slightest movement, and solvents make the cables brittle and fragile so that they will gradually break due to the pressure when bending and laying. wood glue is popular doesn't bond the cables very well to the styrene of the kit, so handle very carefully after drying and re-glue if necessary, but wood glue hardens easily and flexibly and does not damage the cables

if you bought a normal cheap pin vise it is it is very likely that it is useless
because the cheap 3-jaw chucks can't hold and center these 0.6 mm drills properly... maybe you're lucky. if not order the "Tamiya 74051 Fine Pin Vise - (0.1-1.0mm)". the right drill bits are also tricky...don't buy this tungsten board drill bit with a thicker shank, which is completely unsuitable for the plastic and manual drilling and breaks like pretzel sticks. the drill must be flexible but not too much like the normal dark/black hss drills, they are about 0.6 mm too soft and also break quickly. these bare hssg drill bits are best. They are made of heavy-duty high-speed steel and last the longest. Actually, when drilling, the rule of thumb is the smaller the drill, the higher the speed, but unfortunately not applicable here because we drill by hand, and the plastic would melt immediately anyway
Once you have the fiber optic cable threaded through, I like to hold the outside end of the FO cable near a lighter to melt the tip. It will ball-up and should not slip accidentally back through your hole. You will still have to glue them in place but no more need to fear that anything slides out in a moment of "man-handling". :)

Do not hold the open flame too close, it should just be close enough to melt the tip, but not close enough for it to catch fire.

Also if you plan to paint after the FO cables are finished, keep the outside ends short enough so that you can work around them and they do not cause "spray shadows". This can be a real pain, especially in hard to get to places where you have many FO cables sticking out.
I've seen reviews of the Revell that mention the Zvezda logo still being stamped into the plastic.

I've think I heard somewhere that you can use plain white elmers glue to glue the strands in place. Would wood glue be better?
Nice Star Destroyer! How did you do the Aztecing (air brush, hand brush, etc)?
it is just masking and airbrushing like a 3 color pixel comoflage then misting all together with the base color...done
and the last step is panellining with a 0.3 mm mechanical pencil ( mine hardness level H ) and forget about the out of the box engraved panel lines
I do not recommend washes in any form for the isd it just looks bad
Use clear silicone caulking to hold wires and fiber optics. It takes a few hours to dry, but it holds different surfaces excellent and is flexible.
Use clear silicone caulking to hold wires and fiber optics. It takes a few hours to dry, but it holds different surfaces excellent and is flexible.
maybe the grip to hold the fiber optics in place is a bit better later but the standart woodglue or elmers glue makes so much less mess
unlike the silicone
I always use five minute epoxy for fiber optic cables. It sets faster than Elmers or wood glue, and it grips the fiber without etching it or making it brittle.
Well, looks like I have to start over from scratch. My bottle of super glue leaked everywhere, and several key pieces got fused to the box. Enough of the model (90%) is technically intact, but I don't know how feasible it is to order replacement parts. Plus, I botched a few areas just a hair, (broke a turbolaser, have a couple ugly gaps), so I might as well start over.
What parts do you need? I needed the neck parts, and was lucky to catch someone parting one of them out, on the bay of e.

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