Filandrius
Sr Member
All of this sounds really promising. Can't wait. 
-
Welcome to the Project Runs Forum!
This forum is intended for interest gauging and active runs. Due to the transient nature of this forum, please keep all research and ongoing discussion in one of our main forums so your information is not lost.
Only Premium Members can start a new run.
Limited Run === Luke's Lightsaber : THE LAST JEDI === NOW SHIPPING!!!
- Thread starter Romans Empire
- Start date
Ridire Firean
Sr Member
Sort of.
I'd move BOTH of them to the right (emitter side) and away from the black switches. On the Hero, the Red Triangle is completely to the emitter-side of the screw near the Black Buttons, with its tip (the one pointing to the pommel-side of the controlbox) inline with the emitter-side edge of the Pommel-side Screw's face. The Green Triangle has its pointing tip (the one going towards the emitter end of the control box) just to the emitter-side of the centerline of the Emitter-side Screw's face.
So, if you just reversed your measurements (in terms of where you have the triangle tips in your drawing) so that the gap between the pommel-side edge of the plate and the pointing tip of the red triangle was 7/32", and then made the gap between the pointing tip of the green triangle and the emitter-side edge of the plate 3/16", you would have a red triangle that was just emitter-side of the centerline on the pommel-side screw, and a green triangle that was closer to the emitter-side edge of the face of the emitter-side screw.
That way it would give a bit of an impression towards the look of the Hero Triangle/Screw positioning without looking totally wonky. Does that make sense? Like, I wouldn't make the gap 1/2" on the pommel-side and 1/16" on the emitter-side, that would be WONKY. But reversing the gaps you have in your drawing, being separated in their lengths by only 1/32", would not look WONKY at all, but would be just off enough to make your mind see the Hero alignment instead of seeing a more idealized alignment where the tips of the triangles were perfectly over the centerlines of the screw faces.
Is that too difficult to follow along with? :wacko I had this all written out Left and Right, but then it could be interpreted incorrectly depending on how you were viewing the Hero Photo and changed it to be more thorough. But boy does that make your mind ache!
What's the overall length of Roman's control box for the Balance V4?
As far as the size of the triangles go, I'd take that control box's length into account by bringing the Hero photo into Photoshop, scaling it so that the control box was that exact length, and then measuring the triangles. That's how I measured for the triangles I'm making for my TCSS Control Box. With my printout of the Hero Clamp being 2", the Hero Plate is smaller than 1", and since slothfurnace's clamp cards are 2", and the V4 clamps are smaller than 2" and the cards need to be filed to shorten them so that they fit properly, I'm thinking that'd make your 11/64" for the triangles' sides too small in relation to the size of the V4 plate with your plate at 1". The triangles don't have to be the exact size of the Hero Triangles, they just have to look proportionate to the plate.
Anywho, just food for thought. I'd put the questions of triangle size and alignment to those that bought the V4 and see how they'd prefer to have it made once you have a sample or two. That way you'll be able to get feedback from everyone interested and proceed from there.
Good Luck finishing off your V4 the way you want it! I look forward to seeing what you come up with. I'm off to think of something less mentally challenging like Interdimensional Space/Time Vortices and their effect on Causality.
:lol
Sort of.
On the Hero, the Red Triangle is completely to the emitter-side of the screw near the Black Buttons, with its tip (the one pointing to the pommel-side of the controlbox) inline with the emitter-side edge of the Pommel-side Screw's face. The Green Triangle has its pointing tip (the one going towards the emitter end of the control box) just to the emitter-side of the centerline of the Emitter-side Screw's face.
So, if you just reversed your measurements (in terms of where you have the triangle tips in your drawing) so that the gap between the pommel-side edge of the plate and the pointing tip of the red triangle was 7/32", and then made the gap between the pointing tip of the green triangle and the emitter-side edge of the plate 3/16", you would have a red triangle that was just emitter-side of the centerline on the pommel-side screw, and a green triangle that was closer to the emitter-side edge of the face of the emitter-side screw.
That way it would give a bit of an impression towards the look of the Hero Triangle/Screw positioning without looking totally wonky. Does that make sense? Like, I wouldn't make the gap 1/2" on the pommel-side and 1/16" on the emitter-side, that would be WONKY. But reversing the gaps you have in your drawing, being separated in their lengths by only 1/32", would not look WONKY at all, but would be just off enough to make your mind see the Hero alignment instead of seeing a more idealized alignment where the tips of the triangles were perfectly over the centerlines of the screw faces.
Is that too difficult to follow along with? :wacko I had this all written out Left and Right, but then it could be interpreted incorrectly depending on how you were viewing the Hero Photo and changed it to be more thorough. But boy does that make your mind ache!
What's the overall length of Roman's control box for the Balance V4?
As far as the size of the triangles go, I'd take that control box's length into account by bringing the Hero photo into Photoshop, scaling it so that the control box was that exact length, and then measuring the triangles. That's how I measured for the triangles I'm making for my TCSS Control Box. With my printout of the Hero Clamp being 2", the Hero Plate is smaller than 1", and since slothfurnace's clamp cards are 2", and the V4 clamps are smaller than 2" and the cards need to be filed to shorten them so that they fit properly, I'm thinking that'd make your 11/64" for the triangles' sides too small in relation to the size of the V4 plate with your plate at 1". The triangles don't have to be the exact size of the Hero Triangles, they just have to look proportionate to the plate.
Anywho, just food for thought. I'd put the questions of triangle size and alignment to those that bought the V4 and see how they'd prefer to have it made once you have a sample or two. That way you'll be able to get feedback from everyone interested and proceed from there.
Good Luck finishing off your V4 the way you want it! I look forward to seeing what you come up with. I'm off to think of something less mentally challenging like Interdimensional Space/Time Vortices and their effect on Causality.
Ive been looking at more reference and I’m actually fairly pleased with the initial drawing I have... without changing the arrow position the problem (in my opinion) is the screws themselves. The screws: (especially pommel side) wasn’t placed close enough to the edge or bottom to make the arrow placement proportionately “accurate” if going for ROTJ. This is the dilemma with Romans control box. A choice has to be made. Accurate arrow spacing disregarding the screws (which still lines up aesthetically to the screw centerlines and looks quite nice IMO) is what I'd like to achieve. Shifting the arrow spacing overall and making the relationships sort of an averaged resemblance looks less desirable to me because the left/right spacing appears pinched when comparing it to the reference.
The reference pictured above may not even be the original... i don't know at this point. PM me if you have better honestly.... But since the screws can't change i'd like the arrows to have the accurate spacing (especially when lit- up) as most people aren't noticing the screw heads they're looking at the arrows and lighting.
SaveSave
Last edited by a moderator:
Hey guys, I'm sure everyone here loves their V4 including me. I decided to dive into solidworks and keyshot to do some quick renders of the v4 with some iteration of the green/red arrows. Note the green/red arrows are just based off my judgement of the TFA BTS photo and the low res reference photos of TLJ. To my eyes I felt the green/red arrows were larger and closer together in comparison to other hero props.
Kylo1
Sr Member
Very nice job Halliwax but I thought that it was established that there are 12 gold lines and not 13? I keep looking at the TLJ screen shot of the lightsaber control box and it does look like the card starts with a black line.................TBC!!
The first bootleg screen shots we got had 12 shiny lines
The second bootleg we got Roy did some photo shop work with it trying to find a better look at the black button
And it was discovered there was 1 more line, the reason we didn’t see it is because the shiny lines were CGI, and they forgot to add the cgi shine to the 13th line.
There is on going theories, but that is the one I’m sticking with now
Filandrius
Sr Member
I agree wholeheartely. There's a 13th line on the on-screen card, but it's less shiny and half the size of the others. The fact that the slothfurnace card had to be trimed makes it perfect, and replicates the on-screen look very well, IMO.
Ok gang, here's the model, arrow placement is ripped from my reference image, idealized a bit (aligned vertically) and of course the roman holes are identically placed. I'm sending a dxf over to a local shop, hopefully they'll get back soon with a quote.
I discussed this with a couple other guys last week, so I'll let you guys mull this over as well. Let me know your thoughts.
I suggested that the card may have 12 & 12, with the "13th" line actually being the copper lid underneath. I made this card to show what I mean. I didn't think to match up the lighting and shadows at the time of the picture, so keep that in mind, too.
I suggested that the card may have 12 & 12, with the "13th" line actually being the copper lid underneath. I made this card to show what I mean. I didn't think to match up the lighting and shadows at the time of the picture, so keep that in mind, too.
Absolutely, I have no problem with this. Just make sure to start an interest thread and I'll point people in that direction if needed.
I discussed this with a couple other guys last week, so I'll let you guys mull this over as well. Let me know your thoughts.
I suggested that the card may have 12 & 12, with the "13th" line actually being the copper lid underneath. I made this card to show what I mean. I didn't think to match up the lighting and shadows at the time of the picture, so keep that in mind, too.
View attachment 792198
Sweet. I totally don’t buy the whole, “they made the others shiny with CG” thing.
Filandrius
Sr Member
Well, damn. That looks pretty much spot-on. :OI discussed this with a couple other guys last week, so I'll let you guys mull this over as well. Let me know your thoughts.
I suggested that the card may have 12 & 12, with the "13th" line actually being the copper lid underneath. I made this card to show what I mean. I didn't think to match up the lighting and shadows at the time of the picture, so keep that in mind, too.
View attachment 792198
To be perfectly honest, i also have doubts about the cgi shine thing. I mean, shine on gold isn’t exactly hard to pull off IRL. :/
Kylo1
Sr Member
I discussed this with a couple other guys last week, so I'll let you guys mull this over as well. Let me know your thoughts.
I suggested that the card may have 12 & 12, with the "13th" line actually being the copper lid underneath. I made this card to show what I mean. I didn't think to match up the lighting and shadows at the time of the picture, so keep that in mind, too.
View attachment 792198
Looks spot on to me too!
Which leads me to the question that was a different control box used in TLJ because on the TFABTS version, the control box only appeared to have copper side bars and a stuck down card. Thoughts anyone?
Last edited:
Filandrius
Sr Member
I agree; the control box was definitively different on the TFABTS.
elsporto
Member
Also..
The pommel seems to be a different material and not part of the "hilt" itself - and I believe you can actually see a hint of threads in the "creepy uncle" screen capture. The metal seems more blue-ish. Even the groove may between the lower part of the handle and the control box part seems more blue. It could be a different material spacer or just the light playing tricks - IDK!
Also I observed the "groove-sides" in the pommel seem all at an angle. The inner radius as we've seen it before, look definitely flat. (does this make sense at all? (have not got the words))
(attach of own interpretation)
cheers,
elsporto
The pommel seems to be a different material and not part of the "hilt" itself - and I believe you can actually see a hint of threads in the "creepy uncle" screen capture. The metal seems more blue-ish. Even the groove may between the lower part of the handle and the control box part seems more blue. It could be a different material spacer or just the light playing tricks - IDK!
Also I observed the "groove-sides" in the pommel seem all at an angle. The inner radius as we've seen it before, look definitely flat. (does this make sense at all? (have not got the words))
(attach of own interpretation)
cheers,
elsporto
jenkinskiefer
New Member
From the star wars show today, looks like the Lukes new hero prop
Filandrius
Sr Member
The card doesn’t look like the screen used one at all. Could this be the TFABTS?
Similar threads
