Luke ROTJ V2 -V3 conversion

DaveP

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Hi everyone.

This is an interesting little side project I've been working on that I thought I would share.

Up until recently, I was on the list to get a foundry cast V3 from PoopaPapaPalps , but very sadly I was forced, reluctantly, to drop out. :(

I was hoping to get the exhibit version, and I did have some spare V2 parts put to one side to eventually build a V3 bladed stunt at some stage.

Well, since I'm no longer able to get the exhibit V3 from Palps due to limited funds, my impatience got the better of me, and I made a start on converting my spare V2 in to an exhibit V3. I figured that even though it's not the screen used version, it's still an iconic representation of the prop. Probably more so than the lesser known/seen stunt version.

As soon as funds permit, I'll be jumping back on Palps's run for the stunt version!

This has been a really fun and surprisingly quick little side project, so I thought I'd share it here. I've been spending the vast majority of my time at the computer lately, and with no more outstanding commissions left, this has been a nice break in between drawing up CAD drawings!

Although the V2 and V3 were cast from the same buck, there are some differences between the final props which I've tried my best to replicate.

The first thing I had to do was to plug the holes in the booster section and the pommel. There is a hole in the pommel ridge on the v3, but it is in a different position on the V3, and covered by tape.

PXL_20221005_090108266.jpg
PXL_20221003_102914367.jpg


I used Epoxy putty (quick steel) to fill the hole in the V2 booster that was there for the Cone knob, and the hole in the pommel that was for the Mystery chunk. Originally these were present in the V2 to accommodate the switch and the wire for powering the motorised stunt.

The pommel on the V3 does have a hole for a wire, but that is now covered by aluminium foil, so rather than drilling straight through, I just added a divot to sit underneath the tape:

PXL_20221003_103021558.jpg


I think the majority of the details on the V3 reside in the pommel cubes. Each one has very specific markings. I've tried my best to replicate these based on the available references:

POMMEL REF.jpg


**these are all references that are publicly available**

The very end of the pommel has a significantly softened edge compared to the V2, so I rounded that too:

PXL_20221003_103009187.jpg


Another very important detail is the seam line on the grenade/grip section. This obviously appears on both sides of the hilt, but is noticeably different on each side. On one side of the prop, the seam line continues up on to the tapered end of the grip section. At this point there is a bit of a step:

PXL_20221005_090327283.jpg


Another area that needed some attention was the wind vane/neck section. There is, very much like on the original Obi Wan wind vane, upon which this prop is based, a groove above the lip, which needed to be added. Ever so slightly rounded too, to give it it's bulging appearance. Obviously the tapped 3mm hole which will eventually hold on the emitter, as well as a step that I've observed at the break point:

PXL_20221005_090440191.jpg


I've cheated slightly with this build, and avoided any chemical aging. Due to the filled in hole on the booster I needed to paint the lower end of the body section. To match the effect, I also painted the pommel cubes. One of my favourite paint brands (the brand that I use for my hero necks), is "Spray Bike". They do a colour called "Pewter Silver" which I felt would work well here. It did require an additional application of Tamiya Weathering powder to darken it slightly. This was my intention though anyway, as it meant that I could knock this back on the edges to give them the brighter look that they have on the references:

PXL_20221007_115834214.jpg


For the label that is on the pommel, I took one of the references and straightened it up/removed the perspective. I then scaled this to the correct scale in PS and printed it on to regular print paper:

POMEL REG REF.jpg




PXL_20221004_110152675.jpg


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For the grenade section, I masked off the whole area and painted it completely black. I then sanded back the rings and the taper. This left the black paint deposited in the various chips and marks, as well as in the step on the taper. As it is on the actual prop:

PXL_20221007_115645570.jpg


PXL_20221007_115516133.jpg


For the clamp, I used a spare Romans that I had. It was actually one that I had applied the V2 damage to on the incorrect side in error, but as this one is covered with foil, it finally found a home. :) I do intend on re-doing it eventually, as I'm not entirely satisfied with the size of the holes. I had to literally glue kitchen foil to the clamp too, as the foil I bought was narrower than the clamp, and I couldn't bare to see a seam! :lol: Eventually, I'll return to the clamp and do a better job.

I did go to the trouble of aging the lever, and rounding off the pin to make it a Folmer. I removed the chrome and darkened on the electric hob. I then painted the chrome back on to match the ref:

PXL_20221007_115958935.jpg


I don't have any plans on doing a V3 run at this stage. This was purely a personal project to get a V3 in to my collection, and to try to prevent my eyes from going square! This particular kit does still need an emitter though. The V2 and V3 emitters are fairly close, and if I had one lying around, I'd probably be happy to use a V2 emitter for the time being just to finish the build. Unfortunately though, I don't.

PXL_20221007_115209922.jpg


So, I spent a little time building a 3D model of the emitter. It is, after all a very simple model, and I figured I'd just get one made. I can't actually share an overlay, as I used a reference that isn't in the public domain to the best of my knowledge, and exists in a private collection. I used my usual methods though and this is the end result:

Model_01.jpg


Model_02.jpg


Overall, the dimensions of the V3 emitter are very similar to the V2. There are some notable exceptions though. The face plate "looks" a fair bit bigger than the V2. It is ever so slightly larger, but the housing for the bearing is also smaller. As is the central rod. The V2 has an 8mm rod, whereas the V3 has a 6mm one. I'll obviously have to add a bushing to the neck of my V2 body to address this.

I'm currently awaiting a quote to have one or several of these made. This has actually worked out really well in fact, as I'm in the process of getting my CAD drawings together for my upcoming Obi Wan Static run. I am hoping, for that run, to have all of my parts made locally. Or as locally as possible! I've had my eye on this company for some time now as it is literally down the road from me, but up to now, I haven't approached them. I'm really hoping that, going forward, I can strike up a positive relationship. This is the perfect opportunity for testing the waters! :)

**This is not a project run thread, (and I obviously wouldn't be able to link to one), but once I have a price, I'll post one in the classifieds section for anyone who might be interested in getting one.**

I'm really looking forward to getting this build finished. It's as ugly as sin, but the V3 has a LOT of character. It's been a really interesting and fun little journey so far. I'll post more as soon as I have the emitter made up.

All the best and MTFBWY!

Dave
 
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This is astounding! I've always loved this hilt. I know it's considered apocryphal in some ways, but it's great seeing it replicated to this level of authenticity.
 
This is definitely the ugly duckling of the Luke Skywalker hilt family :lol:

So fun to see you added to the list of people who have tackled this, and I think you’ve done a splendid job, my friend!

While there is nothing as satisfying as one’s own handiwork, I do hope you can own one of PoopaPapaPalps Foundry Casts one day, they are remarkable.
 
This is astounding! I've always loved this hilt. I know it's considered apocryphal in some ways, but it's great seeing it replicated to this level of authenticity.
Thanks. Yeah, I usually prefer to go for the on set look, but in this case, it's just so iconic in it's current condition, I couldn't resist.
Wow DaveP ! This is incredible :) great attention to detail
Thanks, Shane! :)
This is definitely the ugly duckling of the Luke Skywalker hilt family :lol:

So fun to see you added to the list of people who have tackled this, and I think you’ve done a splendid job, my friend!

While there is nothing as satisfying as one’s own handiwork, I do hope you can own one of PoopaPapaPalps Foundry Casts one day, they are remarkable.
Thanks Nathan! Much appreciated. (y) This was totally a comfort project, to get over the fact that I had to drop out. I'd be back on that list in a heart beat if funds allowed!
Speechless…
Thanks! :D
Since you've gone as far as reproducing the LFL inventory tag, will you also be making a "NASA foam box" to display it in?
I was half tempted to leave it off, since it's missing from the archives references. I figured I'd go the whole hog though and capture it as it is today. The thought of making the box did cross my mind actually! :lol: I do think it'd be a pretty cool way of displaying, along with the photo reference. :)
 
I really like what you've done. I did this with an anakin starkiller hilt ages ago... I even carved the rings down just before the seam line to make that step. I don't remember who has it now but I sold it.. so im very happy to see you doing it too!

Good call on the white gaff tape (?) for the cataloging number. I've seen museums use something akin to white out to make a pale layer and that's not easily removed.
 
I really like what you've done. I did this with an anakin starkiller hilt ages ago... I even carved the rings down just before the seam line to make that step. I don't remember who has it now but I sold it.. so im very happy to see you doing it too!

Good call on the white gaff tape (?) for the cataloging number. I've seen museums use something akin to white out to make a pale layer and that's not easily removed.
Thanks Tom. Is "white out" like Tippex (correction fluid)? I wondered about that. It certainly doesn't have the depth that my paper has. It was a bit of a trade off. I really wanted to print it out, so that it was the actual lettering (if that makes sense), rather than copying by hand. I could probably print on to lighter paper, or maybe make a water transfer at some point. (y)
 
Thanks Tom. Is "white out" like Tippex (correction fluid)?
Yeah, basically that stuff. I tried it on one of my casts and then had a change of heart... it was not pretty, I ended up using a screwdriver to gently scrape it off. I like your ideas much better.

Actually, I also love that you've buffed the edges to make it soft, it really looks like a cast now
 
Thanks! :) Flap wheels are great for this! They're great for knocking back that just-engraved look and softening everything off. :)

I have nightmares of using Tippex at school and getting it everywhere! :lol: I remember they did one that rolled it out off a wheel. That might actually be a good option if it's the right width!
 

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