I think originally gucabe had intended to do multiple versions, hopefully this is still the case.
Try PM gucabe for the files, they're not public on shapeways for reasons.
Kylo Ren Saber hollow hilt for electronics
- Thread starter guabe
- Start date
I think originally gucabe had intended to do multiple versions, hopefully this is still the case.
Try PM gucabe for the files, they're not public on shapeways for reasons.
Sandtracker
Active Member
Where would I get the files to 3D print the Kylo Ren saber? I've already PM Gucabe.
Sandtracker
Active Member
BREAD WARRIOR
Well-Known Member
Finished up the paint on my V4. My first V4 emitter shapeways sent was cracked on the side emitters but luckily they replaced it and I kept it as a test piece for painting. Love this prop! Electronics are coming soon!
did the light saber come looking like metal or did you do something to it? The third pic of the bottom looks like real metal!
BREAD WARRIOR
Well-Known Member
It came all white from shapeways. I painted it with black matte spray paint, followed by charcoal metallic spray paint, then a lot of detailing and dry brushing with various metallic acrylics and satin black.
Thanks! I'm glad I pulled it off! It was my first time painting a prop.
Keivan
Active Member
Hey Guabe
thanks so much for your amazing work. I printed mine and noticed the thread is a bit to tight as matter a fact
the the two pieces don't twist together, it gets real tight and gets stuck did you had a problem like this too?
if so what was the solution? i certainly don't want to muscle it closed or damage the hilt threads.
any idea?
Keivan[video]https://youtu.be/C3dIpeFQZfI[/video]
thanks so much for your amazing work. I printed mine and noticed the thread is a bit to tight as matter a fact
the the two pieces don't twist together, it gets real tight and gets stuck did you had a problem like this too?
if so what was the solution? i certainly don't want to muscle it closed or damage the hilt threads.
any idea?
Keivan[video]https://youtu.be/C3dIpeFQZfI[/video]
I had this issue too, but I think it comes down to printer calibration. If you're over-extruding even the slightest bit your threads won't match up.
Keivan
Active Member
do you think I can gently sand the threads down to make it fit?
No, I think it has to do with the model. A screw thread should have plenty of tolerance to screw easily. A proper screw is pretty loose all the way, and tightens only at the end when the parts are blocked. I noticed it before as well on my printed parts in the V2 and I modified the screw area by decreasing the screw part in width and depth by a few percent.
I do have to say that I haven't printed the latest version yet.
Roy
BREAD WARRIOR
Well-Known Member
Mine didn't have any issues like that. The end cap is a bit tricky to get straight but the main body worked perfect for me.
Keivan
Active Member
Hey BreadWarrior what printer did you use? did you print the hilt at default size? I know when I loaded the hilt it was laying on its side and I turned it up so its standing upright on the print bed. i wonder if that caused it? im not sure how i can calibrate my printer to print exactly 1 to 1 ratio
do you know how much shapeways charge to print the hilt and all the components of it?
i printed the rest of the items of the hilt like the side plug top plug and the side blads and non fits
maybe i have to sand it a little not sure
:confused
do you know how much shapeways charge to print the hilt and all the components of it?
i printed the rest of the items of the hilt like the side plug top plug and the side blads and non fits
maybe i have to sand it a little not sure:confused
BREAD WARRIOR
Well-Known Member
Hey BreadWarrior what printer did you use? did you print the hilt at default size? I know when I loaded the hilt it was laying on its side and I turned it up so its standing upright on the print bed. i wonder if that caused it? im not sure how i can calibrate my printer to print exactly 1 to 1 ratio
do you know how much shapeways charge to print the hilt and all the components of it?
i printed the rest of the items of the hilt like the side plug top plug and the side blads and non fits
:confused
i used shapeways so I assume everything was printed default and upright (based on how the print looks). I got it in white polished plastic and total for everything (including blade plugs but excluding side spikes) it was just under 200. My blade plugs and the back cover piece wouldn't slide in and out very easily once I painted them but I sanded them a bit and that fixed it.
The problem is that I made the model to work with Shapeways tolerances, otherwise the parts would be a bit loose.
There are settings on software that can compensate for tightness or looseness. I use simplify3D and on the "Other" options there is a section called Dimensional adjustments with a Horizontal size compensation factor, I use a small negative value to shrink the parts that have male threads. Look for that on whatever slicer you use and try the endcap.
There are settings on software that can compensate for tightness or looseness. I use simplify3D and on the "Other" options there is a section called Dimensional adjustments with a Horizontal size compensation factor, I use a small negative value to shrink the parts that have male threads. Look for that on whatever slicer you use and try the endcap.
Keivan
Active Member
I got the Lulzbot Taz5 and the slicer I use is Cura for Lulzbot I will try to look for that to see if I can adjust the compensation factor.
thank you for your help Guabe and BreadWarrior
thank you for your help Guabe and BreadWarrior
You can also do scaling along specific axes in NetFabb
Keivan
Active Member
Hey Guabe you wouldn't by any chance know where would the function to adjust the tightness of the parts be in Cura would you?
best
K
best
K
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