Jawa blaster real Enfeild and Grenade Cup

[propmainiac]

So before I even thought about it I bought a Real Grenade cup for a Jawa Blaster...didn't think twice...so I guess I have to make the rest of it. I've ordered a Enfield Drill Rifle. Its a demilled rifle with welded and moving parts. Was gonna get a denix but a real gun was cheaper than the fake.Go figure. So any advice from anyone whose done this before? Thanks

 

[makimc]

I also just bought a de-milled/drill purpose MK3 rifle that came with a grenade cup but haven't started my build yet, probably sometime after the holidays. I did buy a few things though to make it complete as mine was missing some parts upon arrival like the safety, the pin that holds the trigger guard in place, and the magazine itself which I have already acquired separately. I purchased the cup adapter from Blaster Factory dot com and my 'fix' since I don't have a lathe or easy access to a machine shop is I bought a M10x1.5 drill and tap set that I'll use to drill out and tap the end of the barrel after I cut it down. Then i'll use a M10x1.5 threaded stud to screw into the barrel. then I have a M10 - 5/8x18 thread adapter that i'll thread onto the stud and the 5/8x18 will thread into the cup adapter and should sit flush with the cut end of the barrel. I'll lock everything in place for final assembly with loctite after I'm happy with everything. The part i'm dreading the most is all the cosmoline! I'm going to have to soak everything and clean the crap out of it. I plan on documenting my build in some way, just not sure how exactly as I'm no content creator...probably mostly progress pics as I do things.

I also plan on making a power pack out of a block of wood to mimic the reference pics of the screen used one that's really a 17/18th century powder horn. I figure I can sand, prime, dremel and paint it to look pretty accurate and make it not look like wood. I'll probably use some sort of brass compressed air fitting to attach the hose too and likely use 1/4' automotive vacuum hose or something similar.

 

[Trebor]

Be aware that if you are in the U.S. the ATF considered a "demilled" rifle legally to still be a firearm unless the receiver has been torch cut through to destroy the receiver.

That means that even a "drill rifle" or a rifle with a bead of weld in the chamber, or parts welded together or a hole drilled through the barrel is still legally a firearm.

This is important to understand because the minimum barrel length for a rifle is 16". Any barrel shorter than that makes it a Short Barrelled Rifle which requires special paperwork to manufacture and a $200 tax paid.

For that reason you can't just cut and shorten the original barrel to make a Jawa blaster. I believe you could replace the barrel with a solid rod instead. As long as its not anything that could be a barrel

 

[makimc]

Be aware that if you are in the U.S. the ATF considered a "demilled" rifle legally to still be a firearm unless the receiver has been torch cut through to destroy the receiver.

That means that even a "drill rifle" or a rifle with a bead of weld in the chamber, or parts welded together or a hole drilled through the barrel is still legally a firearm.

This is important to understand because the minimum barrel length for a rifle is 16". Any barrel shorter than that makes it a Short Barrelled Rifle which requires special paperwork to manufacture and a $200 tax paid.

For that reason you can't just cut and shorten the original barrel to make a Jawa blaster. I believe you could replace the barrel with a solid rod instead. As long as its not anything that could be a barrel

Yes…a solid rod…definitely not cutting the barrel…

 

[propmainiac]

here's some more work ....getting there

 

[makimc]

here's some more work ....getting there

Looks great! Mine is stripped down but chilling on my work bench until I have some more time to work on it.

 

[woodywaverider]

Jealous of you guys in the states, here in the UK i can’t even buy the denix, I’ve got the wood work and some of the other piece like the trigger guard and cocking piece, but I’m having to scratch build the bolt and receiver.

Looking forward to seeing your builds

 

[makimc]

Jealous of you guys in the states, here in the UK i can’t even buy the denix, I’ve got the wood work and some of the other piece like the trigger guard and cocking piece, but I’m having to scratch build the bolt and receiver.

Looking forward to seeing your builds

View attachment 1775477

Is your power pack 3D printed or did you find a real antique powder flask? I’m making one out of a chunk of wood and going to carve out the markings into it.

 

[woodywaverider]

Is your power pack 3D printed or did you find a real antique powder flask? I’m making one out of a chunk of wood and going to carve out the markings into it.

It’s real but not not that accurate, as it doesn’t have the bend, but it was at a bargain price so is close enough for me. I have some bronze upholstery tacs to add to it.

 

[makimc]

View attachment 1775525
It’s real but not not that accurate, as it doesn’t have the bend, but it was at a bargain price so is close enough for me. I have some bronze upholstery tacs to add to it.

Looks awesome though! I’ve been trying to find a pour spout like what’s on yours but no luck so far.

 

[woodywaverider]

Looks awesome though! I’ve been trying to find a pour spout like what’s on yours but no luck so far.

Before I found that one cheap I’d been looking in pet / taxidermy supply stores for a piece of horn large enough, I was planning to make the spout from 2 sizes of brass tube soldered together

 

[makimc]

Before I found that one cheap I’d been looking in pet / taxidermy supply stores for a piece of horn large enough, I was planning to make the spout from 2 sizes of brass tube soldered together

I’m just going to use some air compressor connectors if I can’t find anything reasonable.

 

[woodywaverider]

I’m just going to use some air compressor connectors if I can’t find anything reasonable.

I found these when I was thinking of scratch building one if they are any use to you

Standpipe-Stem-Tube to Hosetail Adaptors in Brass for push + Compression to Pipe | eBay

These are designed to convert for push fit or compression using the stem side to tubing or pipe on the hosetail end. BSP THREAD DATA. Thread Size.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[propmainiac]

so I cut both parts of the stock down today...the stock is a dark brown color ..real dark..should I strip it down then stain it a lighter color or leave as is?

 

[makimc]

so I cut both parts of the stock down today...the stock is a dark brown color ..real dark..should I strip it down then stain it a lighter color or leave as is?

Pics? I plan on stripping mine all the way down and then ‘staining’ them with linseed oil so it’s all natural and probably how it was done originally. You might have some color variation between the butt and fore stock just because of differences in the wood used which is normal. I guess it comes down to your personal preference on how you want it to look. Here’s a screen used one for reference:

 

[woodywaverider]

My fore end and butt stock are slightly colours/tones. The fore end was new and I treated it with tung oil. I’ll sand down the butt and retreat that. Don’t use a stain, either boil linseed oil (the type artists use) or tung oil.

 

[propmainiac]

the one I have is the same color on both parts. it is a 1941 version.

 

[makimc]

the one I have is the same color on both parts. it is a 1941 version.

Is it in nice shape or is it covered in cosmoline? I’m going to spray mine with easy off and get all the crud and old finish off and start over. Not going to sand unless absolutely necessary as I want all the dents and dings to remain. Not the ideal method but it removes everything quickly! Just have to give it all a soap and water scrub after to get the easy off…off.

 

[propmainiac]

it was covered in cosmoline...used mineral spirits to get it off. still have a little hiding in the nooks and crannies.

 

[propmainiac]

so spent a little time today shaping up the stock where I cut it. also tried getting the paint off of the stock...well the paint is gone but the stain is now lighter in that area...should I just strip the stock or leave it as wear?