Twisted6- I think you and everyone else would be better off using the "Measure distance between two points" tool to find your scale for a more accurate fit. I did a QUICK measurement to find my "scale" which is probably not that accurate and ill have to do again if i plan on building this suit
all this hard work and no play? LOL 
opcorn mouth drooling good. esp. the smoothness. He used this foam with Styrospray 1000. I don't have the funds for this styrospray 1000 so i'm trying to go different alternatives and test them out. But I found out that bondo works perfect on this. 
:behave
I found it.
http://www.therpf.com/f24/first-time-build-im-mk-vi-selitac-161499/
its made by peruski
Freakin sick!!
I don't know if any other foam can look that smooth with paint. plus to top that off you cant even see the parts that are glued together! LOL and its lighter then eva foam. In my opinion at least.
Here is where to order them
Flooring Foam
Damn yeah, that looks really smooth !
Although, for a build like the iron patriot, I don't think you loose much (if any) details by doing it in foam. Plus it's cheaper, less time consuming and less toxic, very light and flexible. In the other hand it is less durable and it's harder (but not impossible) to get a smooth finish.
Personally I am going with a mix of the two : fiberglass inside the foam for durability, and multiple layers of PVA, plastidip, adhesion promoter and paint plus some kind of flexible polyester putty to fill gaps and imperfections. I'm also very careful when cutting and glueing the foam to avoid seems as much as possible. Basically I'm mixing Docholiday's and Indiefilmgeek's painting methods with Quovadis' idea of reinforcing the foam with fiberglass. Thanks to all of them for sharing these techniques by the way.
Look what I got in the mail today :
I started applying resin in my gloves, and building the forearm. Next I'll fiberglass the rest of the arm and shoulder to test paint and apply the decals ! That's all I can at the moment do since the forearm took what was left of my foam.
And another advantage of the ikea tubing : spray some clear adhesion promoter, then duplicolor anodized red and tadaaa ! That's exactly what I was aiming for.
It doesn't show well, but it has a really beautiful metallic shine, like a captain america shield.
Damn yeah, that looks really smooth !
Although, for a build like the iron patriot, I don't think you loose much (if any) details by doing it in foam. Plus it's cheaper, less time consuming and less toxic, very light and flexible. In the other hand it is less durable and it's harder (but not impossible) to get a smooth finish.
Personally I am going with a mix of the two : fiberglass inside the foam for durability, and multiple layers of PVA, plastidip, adhesion promoter and paint plus some kind of flexible polyester putty to fill gaps and imperfections. I'm also very careful when cutting and glueing the foam to avoid seems as much as possible. Basically I'm mixing Docholiday's and Indiefilmgeek's painting methods with Quovadis' idea of reinforcing the foam with fiberglass. Thanks to all of them for sharing these techniques by the way.
Look what I got in the mail today :
I started applying resin in my gloves, and building the forearm. Next I'll fiberglass the rest of the arm and shoulder to test paint and apply the decals ! That's all I can at the moment do since the forearm took what was left of my foam.
And another advantage of the ikea tubing : spray some clear adhesion promoter, then duplicolor anodized red and tadaaa ! That's exactly what I was aiming for.
It doesn't show well, but it has a really beautiful metallic shine, like a captain america shield.
Twisted6- I think you and everyone else would be better off using the "Measure distance between two points" tool to find your scale for a more accurate fit. I did a QUICK measurement to find my "scale" which is probably not that accurate and ill have to do again if i plan on building this suit
Irongatsu- Dont worry im working on the file for the elbow and the handplate as well
I think i will make the helmet out of this type of foam. You have to treat it like a bondo and resin build, but it looks fantastic and you can use foam templates to do it. Not to mention it is also sand-able!! so if you have a crease that did not cut right, you can sand it. I also think this would be a good material to make the cannon out of.
Selitac 5mm Sheet (5 sheets)
Here is a pic of a helmet make with this type of foam.
Oh and FYI for this Seltic Foam, So i bought a cheap hot glue gun and the glue gets way too hot that it sort of melts the edges that you are trying to glue. So i bought a different glue gun and it was perfect
But yea let me know how how it goes. Oh one more thing I find it easier to glue the splits if you pinch the foam where the area that its suppose to bend. IF you don't it cracks like a cracker LOL so before you go OH S*$%T!! (this is on a 5mm) 3 mm will bend like theres no tomorrow. enjoy!
Hobby glue guns usually come in low temp, high temp, and adjustable models. Your best bet would be to get an adjustable; low temp works great on paper and lighter stuff, but some foams and heavier materials need the higher temp sticks to bond. Either way, make sure you get the right sticks, the sell high and low-temp sticks as well. I use low-temp on all of my paper pepping, less burns
cant wait!!
