Iron Spider-Man and mechanical lenses

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DrCyanide

Active Member
I suspect the big thing that you're paying for with those kits is the person's time - specifically their time away from their own hobbies/family to make another kit for you. By pricing them a bit above what most people would be willing to spend, they can guarantee they're not constantly making them.

Zook4214 the emotions look great on yours! Awesome job dude!
 

xl97

Master Member
That looks great, I like the way you managed to get varying degrees of opening and closing. Would you mind sharing how you did it?


From a code point of view..

you get a value back from your sensors.. and them based on the value or threshold where that value falls in... you can open fully partially...etc.. whatever you want.



@DrCynanide good point. I'm not clear the process used to create the face shell 'parts'..

* Great kit IMHO.. (best looking turnkey one I have seen to date)

* easily mod'd/hackable to ad the IR sensors..


I guess everyone has their price points they are comfortable with. :)


If anyone needs help mod'ing their kits.. let me know.

I can do the code and the physical mod's I believe without much trouble.
 

Zook4214

New Member
That looks great, I like the way you managed to get varying degrees of opening and closing. Would you mind sharing how you did it?
I have 2 Sensors and then I have a button on the chin, the chin makes the eyes open and the sensors make each eye close, so if you have one eye closed and you’re pressing the button it’s like this

oO
 

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12382

Active Member
Having built 3 designs of mechanical lenses so far, I hope I can put some insight into what comes into mind when building around a spidey suit. I can also say that a ton of the funding goes toward getting what was put in for R&D.

I did a quick skim of the thread and you're going to definitely need to power the servos from an external power source. As for the servos of choice, most of the good builds I've seen (and in my own builds aswell) use metal geared servos. These are quieter and more expensive than typical plastic servos. As for making a set yourself, the trickiest part is incorporating it into a whole cosplay.

Since the suit is fabric, replicating that color with a hard shell is near impossible. The biggest challenge that I've seen creators go through is finding a way to build the mechanical lenses around the fact that the entire 'face shell' needs to be wrapped in fabric that matches the suit. This typically comes at a cost of adding depth to the lenses.

I dont really post on the RPF anymore and do my fair share of lurking, but I have all my stuff on my instagram:
instagram.com/kacosplaytech


https://www.reddit.com/r/gifs/comments/ccpuk2 https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/b2mpd0
 

Wushuplayer

New Member
Having built 3 designs of mechanical lenses so far, I hope I can put some insight into what comes into mind when building around a spidey suit. I can also say that a ton of the funding goes toward getting what was put in for R&D.

I did a quick skim of the thread and you're going to definitely need to power the servos from an external power source. As for the servos of choice, most of the good builds I've seen (and in my own builds aswell) use metal geared servos. These are quieter and more expensive than typical plastic servos. As for making a set yourself, the trickiest part is incorporating it into a whole cosplay.

Since the suit is fabric, replicating that color with a hard shell is near impossible. The biggest challenge that I've seen creators go through is finding a way to build the mechanical lenses around the fact that the entire 'face shell' needs to be wrapped in fabric that matches the suit. This typically comes at a cost of adding depth to the lenses.

I dont really post on the RPF anymore and do my fair share of lurking, but I have all my stuff on my instagram:
instagram.com/kacosplaytech


https://www.reddit.com/r/gifs/comments/ccpuk2 https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/b2mpd0
Can you not fit the face mask over the shell with the mechanics and electronics, then pop an outer lens with some magnets?

Or is that the problem that will add depth you were mentioning?
 

Wushuplayer

New Member
I have 2 Sensors and then I have a button on the chin, the chin makes the eyes open and the sensors make each eye close, so if you have one eye closed and you’re pressing the button it’s like this

oO
Do you have a video or photo of the inside of your shell you would be kind enough to post?
:)
 

12382

Active Member
Can you not fit the face mask over the shell with the mechanics and electronics, then pop an outer lens with some magnets?

Or is that the problem that will add depth you were mentioning?

In my testing, this method adds the depth that is seen with most mechanical lens designs. To be able to layer mechanics behind a shell under a facemask under a magnetic lens is a very tricky problem and I hope you're able to solve it!
 

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xl97

Master Member
oh yeah?? what are you powering directly from the Arduino?

With each pin only being able to output (max) up to 40mA... with a MAX of up to around 200mA.....what are you powering?

nLAlB.png


Each board variant might vary slightly depending on the regulator used on max current...etc

Under LOAD a servo can take up to 1A in current... and maybe burn out your Arduino..

but go ahead if you like.... not like I made it up. search.
 

Wushuplayer

New Member
If anyone needs help mod'ing their kits.. let me know.

I can do the code and the physical mod's I believe without much trouble.

I've given up on the mechanical lenses for now.

Could you please help me put together a circuit and code for:

blue LED strip light up eyes and some small strips of LEDS at the push of a tactile button.
And
2 individual LEDs in the middle of the eyes with a sound board to say "instant kill" activated with the push of another tactile button?

I have:
-narrow RGB led strips
-red individual LEDs
-DFPlayer mini module
-tactile switches.

When I tried putting a circuit together for just turning the LED on and off with a push button, I was getting something I believe they call 'Bounce back'. So I didn't get very far!
 

xl97

Master Member
"blue LED strip light up eyes and some small strips of LEDS at the push of a tactile button. "

Is there an 'action' in there? What does that even mean?

This:

"2 individual LEDs in the middle of the eyes with a sound board to say "instant kill" activated with the push of another tactile button? "

Is understandable... but I would suggest only 1 small red led as it look more accurate.. but thats up to you.


I dont see a micro controller in there? So you are trying to on/off the leds with a switch I take it? And then use the DFPlayer in ADKey mode or something?


You'll have to post links to your leds and the specs..
 

Wushuplayer

New Member
Apologies. Here is a little more detail:

The blue LEDs would light up the around the lenses and lights in the shoulder pads etc. I am planning to use SK6812 LEDs, these are the specs...
I would like them to be turned on and off by a tactile push button switch than would be in the palm of my left hand. As in 'on' with one push and 'off' with another push of the button. Which to me sounds simple, but as I have found out, it is not!

I agree the insta kill would be great with a single red LED for each eye. I would like the red LEDs to come on with the sound file when pushing a button in the right palm.

I have an Ardunio Uno at the moment for prototyping but would probably get a smaller microcontroller, like a Nano? On your recommendation.

I have a 3.7v 2000mAh battery with charging circuit:
TP4056 5V 1A Micro USB 18650 Lithium Battery Charging Board Module +Protection Function TP4056

The DFplayer is:

I speaker I have is 0.5W 8Ohm.

Was thinking it would be great to have a connector that I could easily connect and disconnect the electronics in the mask unit from the LEDs in bodysuit.

Hope that makes more sense.

Thanks.
 

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xl97

Master Member
ok..

so your first post did -NOT- mention a microcontroller (Arduino).. but this latest one did? What is the plan here?


* If you are planing on using: SK6812 then you you have mo choice, they require a microcontroller to work unfortunately.

Some other things to address:

You say you have this:

Which is a +3/7v battery source..

but your Arduino and LEDs require 5v.... see the problem here? :)

So you will need to either get a different battery pack, or use some sort of BOOST converter for the battery pack. (usually a couple bucks.. but really depends on how much current your whole project will use/require)


I would -NOT- get that DFPlayer board..
1.) over priced
2.) looks to be a clone, that does NOT use the official YX5200 chip set. (look at markings on the bottom chip)



Are you using an LED strip? or individual leds that will be connected/daisy chained together?

How are you panning on mounting the led strip then?

How many leds in total (per eye) are you attempting to use? (this matters... so we know how to power everything)


This is for more than just the mask now? (when did this change?)


I think first and foremost.. you need to mock things up on how you see things working/fitting in your 'costume'

Then we can visually see what needs to change.. how things will be connected, how mnay leds you will have/need.. etc..etc..


Have you tried to mock any of this up with just regular lights or leds? Have you tested to check if you can even SEE out of the lens' when attempting to light the lens from the outer rim?


Many people have run into these issues before with Iron Man helmets and lighting up the eyes there too..

might be worth the time to research what they have done to address these issues too
 

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Dorend

New Member
Not sure why nobody posts links?


This perhaps?


Holy cow! not cheap!


$200.00 alone for this 'shell & eye piece kit'?? Wowzers!

I ordered from Cavin (the person’s video you linked) back in July 2019.

EDIT: So I finally got in contact with Cavin and turns out in 2019 he had a couple of malicious employees that deleted orders / customer e-mails. They no longer work for him. He's working on correcting the damage they've done.
 
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xl97

Master Member
Who is 'Cavin'?

Is that Wushuplayer?


please post stuff HERE... not off-site.


As -always-

Always pay via PAYPAL or LARGE vendor credit card.

NEVER (ever) allow for more than 6 months of 'anything'.. You can always send money to them again is you desire... but letting ANYONE hold onto money for over 6_+ months... not a good idea.

Once I was told it would take 6+ months to arrive.. I would have issues a refund ticket and got my money back. Once things were 'ready' I would have paid..
 
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