Iron Man see through eyes - CONCEPT

Have you considered wiring the LED's in line vs parrallel? I'm not sure how this will change things, but it will lower the amount of wires...
 
That's actually what I'm trying out now - I'm testing out soldering them all together in a series and see if that still gives the output I need. I was told it would be better to have a resistor for each set etc but I'm not going to have that kind of room to play with. I think I will be reducing the width of the eye as well since I know what kind of LEDs I'll be using. Still some steps away from a final product but it's getting closer!!
 
This is the current frame I'm working with -would you guys like something different? Since I'm filling up the entire eye it doesn't have to have the angle etc so I can modify the overall shape if there's a different one you think would work better. it's thinner than the other one, and while it fits flush against the bottom of the eye socket it doesn't against the top, mostly because of the top angle. Thoughts? Opinions?

it'll of course be printed in black, I just haven't put that filament on yet.

Matt

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I've thought about trying to build one that would around the eye socket but the curves are pretty interesting and it would make it a little more difficult to make a default model that would fit anyone's faceplate. But I'm willing to take suggestions.

it's pretty much done I think - I have to tweak the wiring - soldering etc - to get it slimmed down as well as the power/resistor involved. So I can take time to play with the design of the frame if you guys think it might be worth while.

So far I think the cost will be between $50-$75 a set - what do you guys think of the pricing? And also what about the power connection - want it to end in just two ends or a different type of connection? That has to get decided as well.

As always your thoughts and opinions are appreciated. thanks.

matt
 
You are right about trying to flush the piece, it's impossible since all helmets are created differently. I think as long as there is enough material thatit can be shaved down w/o compromising the integrity of the unit, then it is fine. If someone wants to get it to sit tight, they can get out the trimming tools.

Price range is good.

Connection... It should either be a 9v connector, since all the AA/AAA battery boxes I have seen have the 9v connector on them, and people could just use a 9v as well if they wanted. Or it can be bare wires, people pick their own connector. It depends on the level of DIY and price tag on the finished product.

Also, you need to get them in a finished faceplate for final photos before going to open market, well or rely on one of us early adopters to take a shot! IT will help with the finished look of the product, for sure.
 
Thanks for the feedback - I won't bother changing the frame too much then - expect maybe remove the sharp angles of the ends - they're not needed now.

The connection I think is going to be a big thing. There are so many ways people may want to connect them - whether it's straight to a power supply with an on/off switch, a set of two magnets between the lights and a power source or run directly to an arduino control board to have them flicker etc as the helmet moves. I'm not sure which are more likely, may have to do some gathering of material and test our all the pieces. The difficult part is I haven't actually seen any of them in person lol. Only on youtube and pictures. I'll probably have to decide on 1 or 2 options, which ever ones seem most common, and go from there.

The finished helmet will be another thing completely. My helmet(s) are far from finished - partly because of limited space, my 3d printer distracted me and I keep making the stupid things too small lol. I SO badly want to see them in a working helmet lol. The hinges I printed work - just have to fine tune their placement. I have an arduino control board and all the relevant code and components to make the faceplate move etc - just have to get everything fine tuned and fitting inside.

So maybe I'll get that going this week instead and then come back to tweaking the eyes. So many things to do - stupid work, ruining my life! LOL

Thanks again for the feedback

Matthew

You are right about trying to flush the piece, it's impossible since all helmets are created differently. I think as long as there is enough material thatit can be shaved down w/o compromising the integrity of the unit, then it is fine. If someone wants to get it to sit tight, they can get out the trimming tools.

Price range is good.

Connection... It should either be a 9v connector, since all the AA/AAA battery boxes I have seen have the 9v connector on them, and people could just use a 9v as well if they wanted. Or it can be bare wires, people pick their own connector. It depends on the level of DIY and price tag on the finished product.

Also, you need to get them in a finished faceplate for final photos before going to open market, well or rely on one of us early adopters to take a shot! IT will help with the finished look of the product, for sure.
 
i had a thought, i saw a guy trying to do a screen in the helmet with a camera type deal fixed to helmet and it occurred to me, what if u could buy a cheap tablet with a camera take the cam out add longer wires fix the cam to the helmet and the mount the tablet in the faceplate. I found a tablet for 70 bucks , it weighs 9.6 ounces has a 4.3 " screen, and has a webcam, if i do another suit with sight problems i may give it a try.
 
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I've seen guys doing things with little camera and google glasses etc but never with an actual tablet - I don't know if there'd be room enough - but it would be interesting to try it out.

i had a thought, i saw a guy trying to do a screen in the helmet with a camera type deal fixed to helmet and it occurred to me, what if u could buy a cheap tablet with a camera take the cam out add longer wires fix the cam to the helmet and the mount the tablet in the faceplate. I found a tablet for 70 bucks , it weighs 9.6 ounces has a 4.3 " screen, and has a webcam, if i do another suit with sight problems i may give it a try.
 
what if u could buy a cheap tablet with a camera take the cam out add longer wires fix the cam to the helmet and the mount the tablet in the faceplate.

I've been working on a similar POC (Proof of Concept) using a very basic helmet made of cardboard and an old android phone. Here's what I'm running into:

(NOTE: I understand that someone will have answers for some of these. I'm not really looking for answers, I'm just documenting my struggles.)

Problem #1: Visibility

The screen of the phone is so close to my face that I can't see detail. Because it is the only "sight" I have, my eyes are trying to adjust (even with my glasses), and it ends up giving me a headache.

Problem #2: Weight

The phone weighs 4.75 ounces. It doesn't sound like much, but that is 1/3 of a pound. That's a lot of weight to have on the front of your head.

Problem #3: Heat

The phone's screen is always on, the camera is running, the thing is generating a lot of heat.

Problem #4: @#$%&* Screen timeout!

I am going to have to root the phone and put some ROM on there that has a null setting for screen timeout.
 
I think the see through eyes can be perfected in a fashion that is more effective than a camera. Even the slightest bit of periphery that your eyes gives you when looking through a lens is infinitely superior to a stationary camera.
 
It really is rather cool how well you can see through them - almost as well as looking through without anything there at all. just fine tuning stuff really.
 
Sorry for the long silence guys - summer hit and my office became a sauna. Too hot to do any work on it at all. And then life got in the way like it usually does lol Summer is my camping time so I was trying to do that as much as I could as well.

Now that fall is pretty much here I intend on getting back to finishing up the eyes .. trying to remember where I left off with them will be interesting.
 
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