Iron Man mkIII 3D Print Files - FREE

If you're planning on leaving the transparent detail print unpainted so it's semitransparent you're going to want to clear coat it with something that will help protect it from UV. The resins used are UV cured so the more they are exposed the more yellow they'll get.
 
When you attach two parts of the armor with a gap, how do you achieve a perfect groove?
Just curious how you do it.

It depends on the orientation of the pieces and the size of the gap. I'll sand with needle files where I need to remove some material for a better fit, but for a simple join where two pieces come together with a small gap (on the scale of <1mm or so) I'll plastic weld the pieces together. If I'm using ABS, I'll do an acetone glue to hold them together, then plastic weld. If it's PLA (like the pieces in my videos so far) I'll glue them up with some CA glue (or tack them together with hot glue) then plastic weld. If I need to smooth the bead after welding, I use an old woodburning tool with a flat blade tip to smooth it out.

For plastic welding, I put a short piece of filament into my dremel and use that. It's a pain to constantly have to replace the filament, but it works. I'm considering picking up a 3Doodler pen or something similar. I had thought about making a tool that would plastic weld easier, but those 3d printing pens seem like they'd work pretty well.
 
It depends on the orientation of the pieces and the size of the gap. I'll sand with needle files where I need to remove some material for a better fit, but for a simple join where two pieces come together with a small gap (on the scale of <1mm or so) I'll plastic weld the pieces together. If I'm using ABS, I'll do an acetone glue to hold them together, then plastic weld. If it's PLA (like the pieces in my videos so far) I'll glue them up with some CA glue (or tack them together with hot glue) then plastic weld. If I need to smooth the bead after welding, I use an old woodburning tool with a flat blade tip to smooth it out.

For plastic welding, I put a short piece of filament into my dremel and use that. It's a pain to constantly have to replace the filament, but it works. I'm considering picking up a 3Doodler pen or something similar. I had thought about making a tool that would plastic weld easier, but those 3d printing pens seem like they'd work pretty well.

Thanks for sharing! I tried gluing a spacer in there at first, but then I tried the following:
grooveMakin.jpg
Works great when you are putting a lot of parts together. I would still like to try the dremel welding technique.
 
Thanks for sharing! I tried gluing a spacer in there at first, but then I tried the following:
View attachment 383567
Works great when you are putting a lot of parts together. I would still like to try the dremel welding technique.

That's a great tip! I'm going to give that a try for grooved pieces. I think I initially misunderstood your question - I thought you meant reassembling a piece that had been sliced for printing. Sometimes there is a tiny gap that can be easily fixed with plastic welding.

For sharp grooves, I think this is a great way to go. I would probably add some reinforcement to the back of the piece afterwards, such as a piece of fiberglass cloth or mat, because now that groove is built only of Bondo and is structurally the weakest point of the build.

I never would have thought to use a rubber band. Great tip.
 
That's a great tip! I'm going to give that a try for grooved pieces. I think I initially misunderstood your question - I thought you meant reassembling a piece that had been sliced for printing. Sometimes there is a tiny gap that can be easily fixed with plastic welding.

For sharp grooves, I think this is a great way to go. I would probably add some reinforcement to the back of the piece afterwards, such as a piece of fiberglass cloth or mat, because now that groove is built only of Bondo and is structurally the weakest point of the build.

I never would have thought to use a rubber band. Great tip.

Thanks. Yeah, it works on small parts great, but larger ones get some strips of screen mashed into them. The gaps on the armor are all different sizes so its fun finding different size bands to use.

BTW, my build is for display and not to be worn, so it is plenty durable for that.

As for the putting together of sliced parts, yes the CA glue works great. Glue, Dremel, glazing putty and a bunch of sanding... would still like to try that dremel welding.
 
@kenlandrum Any chance you are going to finish the complete suit?

Do you mean finish modeling or building? If you mean modeling, then no... probably not.

I originally created this thread so folks could download and 3d print all of the detailed parts to be used with their pepakura suits. I think I've covered all of those parts... and some.

If you mean building, then YES, absolutely... but that's for a new thread.
 
Hi ken you have done amazing updates since my last visit haha always improving ;)

I was wondering if the new files will be at some point downloable as the first ones :angel

Keep it going :D
 
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Hi ken you have done amazing updates since my last visit haha always improving ;)

I was wondering if the new files will be at some point downloable as the first ones :angel

Keep it going :D


Ken posted a few posts up that these are all he's doing. There aren't going to be any new files.
 
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