Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print

[tijojo98]

Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Chest P9

I've not had a power loss, but did run out of filament once (so same result as loosing power mid print). To finish the piece, I placed it on a flat surface, measured it with digital callipers, and sliced that amount off the bottom of the model - Then I just printed the missing piece.

Seriously ? I thought that runing out of fillament would put in a waiting state and tell you to put more then continue

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[ShaunDark80]

Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Chest P9

Seriously ? I thought that runing out of fillament would put in a waiting state and tell you to put more then continue

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Not on any printer I've seen.

 

[RocFoamArmory]

Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Chest P9

Seriously ? I thought that runing out of fillament would put in a waiting state and tell you to put more then continue

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Higher priced printers may do this. But think about it. The printer has no idea how much filament you have left. Mine tells me how much I've printed since I bought it, but nowhere can I say how much filament I'm starting out with. The printer doesn't care whether there is filament left or not, it's just programmed to print whatever file you tell it to.

 

[Leylander]

Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Chest P9

Quick question about bondo:

Do you cover up the detail lines and cut them out later or do you make sure the details are not covered up so you don't have to retrace them with a dremel?

 

[creative stress]

Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Chest P9

Quick question about bondo:

Do you cover up the detail lines and cut them out later or do you make sure the details are not covered up so you don't have to retrace them with a dremel?

Mate try not to cover them ... trying to dremel them out it b@##@ you will never get straight line cos it melts just skim over the parts only fill the lines light sand first before adding filler

sent from samsung

 

[Leylander]

Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Chest P9

Wel I just did a piece of the forearm and trying to not bondo the detail lines is a pain in the *ss too

I made sure I did not cover them up too much, just went over them without applying pressure. Some pieces are full of detail lines, so this might become trickier than expected...

 

[ubcs86]

Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Chest P9

Where you can get away with it, use glazing putty to get rid of the print layers. Its much easier to clean up. Also, get a good pack of small files. They helped me carve out the detail lines in the areas where I had to bondo. They sell 12 piece needle files at Harbor Freight for $4. They proved to be worth every penny.

 

[Leylander]

Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Chest P9

I was thinking of getting a pack. They do come in handy sometimes.

The printer is fixed and received a micro-swiss upgrade. I'm doing a test print now and will resume printing the abs shortly

 

[Leylander]

Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Chest P9

Time to show a small update. I decided to prep the arm and chest for paint. So first up: applying bondo and sanding it down.

The lower arm is almost ready for primer. Just need to clear some details and clean it up a bit more. After that I can fill up imperfections.



Handplate ready for sanding.


I'm going to apply bondo on small areas and let it dry. This is not sanded yet, ofcourse.

More to come later on

 

[InCOGnito B2TE]

Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Bondo P10

This looks great, will follow this to see the end result. I know everyone's a critic but something I've learnt (and hope it's not over stepping) and learnt the hard way, it looks like you're bondo layer is too thick. With a 3D print that accurate, you're really only looking to take out the small imperfections and print lines. By laying on thick you're going to lose your detailled lines and positions for smaller details. Boochieboy on YouTube did an ironman helmet and the bondo work on that is immaculate and worth a watch. Seriously though this is an interesting build and am looking forward to more updates. Are you planning on any electronics?

 

[tijojo98]

Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Bondo P10

I really hate bondo because i do thin coat so when i put a second pas to fill imperfection ot creates others low spot ans when they are coming to be smooth im back on resin

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[Bogleo]

Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Bondo P10

For 3d prints, use spot putty. You only should need bondo if there are holes or large gaps.

 

[InCOGnito B2TE]

Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Bondo P10

I really hate bondo because i do thin coat so when i put a second pas to fill imperfection ot creates others low spot ans when they are coming to be smooth im back on resin

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I would recommend the boochieboy helmet build on YouTube for you as well. I have also found that shining a light through from the back will tell you where your thin layers of bondo are before you start going completely through. Probably only works for a fibre glass resin build though I would think?

 

[creative stress]

Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Chest P9

Time to show a small update. I decided to prep the arm and chest for paint. So first up: applying bondo and sanding it down.

The lower arm is almost ready for primer. Just need to clear some details and clean it up a bit more. After that I can fill up imperfections.

View attachment 629536

Handplate ready for sanding.
View attachment 629534

I'm going to apply bondo on small areas and let it dry. This is not sanded yet, ofcourse.

More to come later on
View attachment 629535

Looking good leylander its coming along nicely mate look forward to more updates [emoji106] [emoji2]

sent from samsung

 

[Leylander]

Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Chest P9

This looks great, will follow this to see the end result. I know everyone's a critic but something I've learnt (and hope it's not over stepping) and learnt the hard way, it looks like you're bondo layer is too thick. With a 3D print that accurate, you're really only looking to take out the small imperfections and print lines. By laying on thick you're going to lose your detailled lines and positions for smaller details. Boochieboy on YouTube did an ironman helmet and the bondo work on that is immaculate and worth a watch. Seriously though this is an interesting build and am looking forward to more updates. Are you planning on any electronics?

I always appreciate tips . The bondo is pretty difficult to apply in thin layers. The thing is that some parts have defects from printing and applying bondo seems to cover it up pretty good. I'd look around if my local shops sell spot putty, but I'm not sure if that will give the result I'm looking for.

Electronics is planned, but I'll start on that when the suit is printed. I might change my mind and do this in between. We'll see.

For 3d prints, use spot putty. You only should need bondo if there are holes or large gaps.

Are there any guidelines for using spot putty? I feel the bondo is a bit too thick by itself when applying it. Is spot putty thinner, more liquid? Since you can see the print lines pretty good, should you apply this to the entire print?

Looking good leylander its coming along nicely mate look forward to more updates [emoji106] [emoji2]

sent from samsung

Thanks mate . I'll post as much as I can

 

[InCOGnito B2TE]

Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Bondo P10

Yeah it can be a nightmare to work with in the wrong conditions. Urm... I guess you could use a little less hardener to give you longer to work with it. Also if you have a high bit on a soldered joint you could file/sand it down to make the required bondo layer thinner. Also I've found its better to mix smaller quantities so if it does go off before I'm finished, then it's less painful to throw it away and don't be afraid to throw it away rather than trying to smear it on quickly as this never goes well The applicator you use could play a part, get creative with what you use I.e. A thickish piece of flat plastic or a spatula might give you more flexibility. Spot putty goes off a bit quicker so you'd need to make up smaller quantities and is more expensive volume for volume than bondo, so may just come down to cost. Hope this is all helpful and I'm open to conflicting opinions

- - - Updated - - -

Also this does look really good. Are you annoyed that you need to fill it seeing it's already red?

 

[Leylander]

Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Bondo P10

Yeah it can be a nightmare to work with in the wrong conditions. Urm... I guess you could use a little less hardener to give you longer to work with it. Also if you have a high bit on a soldered joint you could file/sand it down to make the required bondo layer thinner. Also I've found its better to mix smaller quantities so if it does go off before I'm finished, then it's less painful to throw it away and don't be afraid to throw it away rather than trying to smear it on quickly as this never goes well The applicator you use could play a part, get creative with what you use I.e. A thickish piece of flat plastic or a spatula might give you more flexibility. Spot putty goes off a bit quicker so you'd need to make up smaller quantities and is more expensive volume for volume than bondo, so may just come down to cost. Hope this is all helpful and I'm open to conflicting opinions

- - - Updated - - -

Also this does look really good. Are you annoyed that you need to fill it seeing it's already red?

I have no issues with sanding it. I take my time when sanding and that pays off in the longrun. I use a B&D Mouse, so no need for that much elbow grease

I chose the red so I would have a good look at how it might look. I know, it's way to bright, but it's also easier to see details than on white or black
Sadly I can't print everything in one piece. An industrial printer would be so nice

---EDIT---

I use a golfball size of bondo and pea size hardener. It still cures pretty quickly, but I'm able to apply it in time. If I use less hardener, the bondo never cures well and is almost impossible to sand. It then sticks to the sanding paper making it useless. I have this issue with the shoulder piece. I might need to wet sand it.

 

[creative stress]

Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Bondo P10

I have no issues with sanding it. I take my time when sanding and that pays off in the longrun. I use a B&D Mouse, so no need for that much elbow grease

I chose the red so I would have a good look at how it might look. I know, it's way to bright, but it's also easier to see details than on white or black
Sadly I can't print everything in one piece. An industrial printer would be so nice [emoji14]

---EDIT---

I use a golfball size of bondo and pea size hardener. It still cures pretty quickly, but I'm able to apply it in time. If I use less hardener, the bondo never cures well and is almost impossible to sand. It then sticks to the sanding paper making it useless. I have this issue with the shoulder piece. I might need to wet sand it.

Also have a look at getting some dolphin glaze mix it like bodyfiller its thinner but set really quick.. very easy... to sand if your prints dont have big defects get it on ebay i use it a lot on my prints speeds up your finishing time [emoji106]

sent from samsung

 

[Leylander]

Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Bondo P10

Also have a look at getting some dolphin glaze mix it like bodyfiller its thinner but set really quick.. very easy... to sand if your prints dont have big defects get it on ebay i use it a lot on my prints speeds up your finishing time [emoji106]

sent from samsung

I'll have to look for a similar product that's being sold in Belgium. Otherwise I will be loaded with shipment fees

It does look interesting as something to easely flatten out all dents and scratches.

 

[tijojo98]

Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Bondo P10

I guess if it was less expensive the best thing to use would be xtc since the prints are very accurate but i know how expensive smooth on is o ordered 2 smooth on epsilon epoxy resin trial kit and it cost me 137$

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