Re: Iron Man Mark VI Foam Suit - My first build thread! - Race to Halloween!
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Ok so I have begun priming and painting the suit. Got first coats of paint on all pieces, and second coat on a few. I do a have question about the paint that has me worried. If you look at my close up of the boot (has 2 coats red already, no clear yet), you can see that the paint is glossy in some areas and dull in others. What gives? Wil the clear coat fix this? why is it doing this? do I need a third coat of red on them? help anyone?
You have a few painting issues and like pep'ing it takes many attempts to get the process for painting foam, in your environment where it will come out great.
0. Take an extra 30 minutes and get a large spare piece of foam, divide it into like 6x horizontal stripes using a sharpie. At one end write what the test area is for. i.e.
I. PVA, primer, top, PVA
II. PVA, primer, top no clear
III. PVA, primer, top, enamel clear
...etc, etc. Then you will find yourself referencing this test piece many times. You will discover many things. For example the best looking one is not the best choice for parts the flex a lot, but a slightly less shiny part that does not crack is superior for the application.
1. Seal the heck out of the foam. I use a real PVA from Amazon : Helmar Craft and Hobby PVA Glue, 8.45 Fluid Ounce. I first cut it 50/50 with water, and toward the final coats barely cut it. I seal until it looks like its a solid epoxy like surface. I have also used Modpodge successfully in the glue like and spray containers.
2. Primer lightly but completely
3. On a high visibility part (i.e. helmet) you might want to lightly sand at this step with 1500 or 2000 grit sandpaper usually wet.
4. Lightly apply the top color, in 2-3 light coats with just enough paint to cover the primer. DO NOT go thick trying to get a "wet" look. If you go too thick on any coat the paint will crack. Once cracked you are screwed, you cant just repaint it. You have to sand and fill the cracks, re-prime, etc. Then the paint will still be much more likely to crack in the same place.
5. Once the top coat is dry (varies by temp, humidity, and altitude) then clear it. I have recently been using a walmart rustoleum crystal clear enamel. It will make even the dullest paint look like glass. Thats its job. The more layers the better it looks up to like 4-5, BUT I stick with 3x because of the cracking risk. On a very flexible part I sometimes use PVA or Modpodge in a spray can (walmart craft section) because it will flex quite well.
In FL on a 70-80deg F day with 20-30% humidity I can;
1. PVA - wait 1-2hrs before priming
2. Prime - wait 30min before Top Color
3. Top Coat - wait 10min, second coat, 10 2nd, 10, 3rd
4. Clear - Wait 30min after Top then Clear. 3x coats at 1-2 min between.
This can work if the part is in the sun with good airflow. You can paint like crazy. But if its a rainy day you have to go slow. Set up some work lights (halogen) that generate some real heat and a fan on "low" in the garage as a drying station.
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Good luck on your build. This is my second year with this build and it just gets better as you add detail! I did mine the first year in less than 2 weeks with zero sleep or work. I was unable to make the boots or gloves, but nobody noticed really. In the ed it will be dark and you will look cool. What not to skip is the lighting!