If you were to buy a resin printer today...

[Madhatter]

thanks so much for that info - I appreciate it
I have another question: I have seen a couple of Youtube videos where they state they hollowed the subject out to save on resin - how does one hollow a subject out? I have zero CG experience. Is it easy enough to do? Is this something you can do on Lychee or Chitubox?

 

[ajaxjones]

thanks so much for that info - I appreciate it
I have another question: I have seen a couple of Youtube videos where they state they hollowed the subject out to save on resin - how does one hollow a subject out? I have zero CG experience. Is it easy enough to do? Is this something you can do on Lychee or Chitubox?

Yes Chitubox does this in the software, and has a hole punch function so you can put a drain hole in. You can download a copy and try it out with a STL from thingiverse.

I'd also recommend the Elegoo printers. Either a Pro 2 or a Saturn . As a first timer the Pro 2 is more manageable due to the print volume size. Elegoo are also very good at customer support, I had a tank fep puncture (my own fault) and they sent out a replacement. I now have screen protectors on all the printers. Wash and cure station from Anycubic , but I only use it for curing, with prints washed in pickle jars using the standard grey resin and washed in IPA. Its much easier as I'm printing in volume at the moment. Not tried water soluble resin and have seen a few people have prints crack with it, but thats possibly because they are large solid items. In winter I do have to have a space heater nearby to keep the temperature around and above 17c , summer no problem and can print 24/7. With most prints I run 0.05 resolution but will print the top parts at 0.03 to ameliate printing lines. Chitubox Pro allows you to mix resolutions in a print depending on what quality you want.

 

[Madhatter]

thanks Ajax! I actually just finished installing Lychee 3.5.1 and have downloaded a couple of files from Thingiverse to have a play around and get me head around something entirely new

 

[JNordgren42]

thanks Ajax! I actually just finished installing Lychee 3.5.1 and have downloaded a couple of files from Thingiverse to have a play around and get me head around something entirely new

I'm in the same boat. I'm counting down the days till I can place my order and playing around with Fusion 3D, Lychee, and Chitubox in the meantime. I've worked up some more detailed replacement parts for my 1/72 Eagle in the last couple of days and even the modeling part is fun. I haven't done much 3D work in a long time. I'd definitely recommend downloading Fusion, it's free for personal use. There's a bit of a learning curve, but it's extremely powerful and does parametric modeling so you can go back and change things after the fact. Very useful if you need to experiment with fit and such for add on or detail pieces.

 

[ID10T]

Chitubox Pro allows you to mix resolutions in a print depending on what quality you want.

This. Is. Awesome. I may have to pony-up for the "pro" version...

 

[Madhatter]

so, I tried playing with Lychee last night and it loaded one file fine but when I started another scene it wouldn't load any other files at all. It keeps stating the file type to be opened is a 3D file and the file type I have all of a sudden is now 3D Object? Have I screwed something up or is Lychee just having a tanty?
If this keeps up, I am going to try Chitubox. From the one go that did work it was fun but the free version does not allow hollowing. If the file loading issue can be sorted, then I will spring for the pro version

 

[ID10T]

Ugh. Can’t help you with that but I didn’t know you couldn’t hollow objects with the free version. That’s a bit of a downer.

 

[Jun Austria]

Nice work JNordgren42 on Fusion 360. I just started on the tutorial. How long did you learn Fusion 360 before you get to that level of details for your 3d model?
Like you, my 3D printer will only supplement my existing styrene models. But if ever I get a 3d printer with a bigger build plate. I might change my mind.

 

[Madhatter]

Ugh. Can’t help you with that but I didn’t know you couldn’t hollow objects with the free version. That’s a bit of a downer.

Yeah tell me about it. I was really hoping you could do that but looks like we'll have to shell out dosh for that privilege

 

[ajaxjones]

Yeah tell me about it. I was really hoping you could do that but looks like we'll have to shell out dosh for that privilege

I have the free 1.8.1 version and it allows hollowing, I also downloaded the latest free version 1.9 and that too can hollow

 

[JNordgren42]

Nice work JNordgren42 on Fusion 360. I just started on the tutorial. How long did you learn Fusion 360 before you get to that level of details for your 3d model?
Like you, my 3D printer will only supplement my existing styrene models. But if ever I get a 3d printer with a bigger build plate. I might change my mind.

I started using Fusion about 3 or 4 years ago but hadn't opened it up in about a year until this weekend. However, I've been using various CAD and modeling programs for at least 20 years and use AutoCAD almost daily at my job (mostly 2D). Fusion was actually a little difficult got me to pick up, because it's workflow is so different from everything else I've used.

As far as doing complete models, I actually do plan on it when I get my printer. I'm most likely going to get an Elegoo Saturn, and I mostly model in smaller scales due to limited display space, so both of those factors help. I'll still need to do some judicious slicing though. I was running some quick calculations and I figured I can do Saturn V at about 1/90 if I do the tanks and intertank sections separately. Getting warp free sections may be a challenge, but it should be doable with some practice.

 

[Jun Austria]

Good to know JNordgren42. I too came from AutoCAD since version 2. Added 3dsmax in our workflow. Then Revit on 2007 onwards.
Seems our knowledge in 3d software for work is now being combined with our hobby. Ok, time to practice on Fusion 360. Cheers.

 

[Madhatter]

I have the free 1.8.1 version and it allows hollowing, I also downloaded the latest free version 1.9 and that too can hollow

I've been having issues with Lychee not recognizing the STL files I have. Lychee just won't accept any type of file other than "3D File" - which I think is weird. I contacted Mango as I couldn't also activate the account and now it's disappeared altogether! Alex @ Mango has been very helpful but it's not a great introduction to a program that's been raved about by others.
So, I downloaded Chitubox just then and low and behold, it works perfectly and it accepts the STL files I have. I'm thinking there maybe a bug with the newest version of Lychee - or its a problem behind the keyboard. Not sure which one (probably the later) but as it is now, I am thinking of sticking with Chitubox which allows hollowing - a feature I want to assist with lighting and resin saving
So, it's off to Google to school myself on how to use it properly
ID10T - this has been one of the most useful threads I have come across in a long time. Sorry if I have hijacked it with my stupidity but it seemed almost silly to create another thread of a similar subject

 

[ID10T]

No worries. I’m as guilty of thread hijack (and I moderate another near dead site).

The learning is pretty easy once you understand the Chitubox language. Hollowing is a click away- once the drop down opens, you define inside or outside material removal and also wall thickness. I go with 3mm wall typically but using ABS-like resin it may be able to be reduced to 2mm. That depends on the complexity of your object and how much it will be handled.

Making holes is easy, and the latest version automatically provides plugs to fill those holes. You can put them anywhere so you could add windows to things with it.

 

[ssdesigner]

+1 here for the Elegoo Saturn. I've only done a tiny bit of modelling in the past but now I'm starting to get into it more. Purchased the Saturn on Amazon as well as the Elegoo wash/cure. So far the test print was a success, and I also designed/printed my very first model. No failures, no issues. Did a lot of research and studying before jumping in and I think it is paying off. You really need to pay attention to leveling, supports, support design and sizing, layer curing times and other misc. settings. I'm also using Elegoo's water wash resin and I'm running a Winix charcoal filter air purifier in my shop. Here is a photo of my test print (excuse the white residue, these needed to wash for 2-3 min longer than they did) :

Here is a photo of the tiny, 1/2" diameter knob that I modeled. This greeblie is going to be the red cap on top of the side tube on Shephard Book's lantern from Firefly.

 

[wayouteast]

I have the free 1.8.1 version and it allows hollowing, I also downloaded the latest free version 1.9 and that too can hollow

Another option for hollowing, as well as lots of other useful editing, is the free program, Meshmixer. I use this in my workflow for hollowing and adding drain holes to parts (I just find it easier and more intuitive than other methods). I also use it a lot for slicing large parts, that otherwise wouldn't fit into my quite small Elegoo Mars printer, into smaller pieces for assembly later. And for fixing the occasional bad (non-manifold) file.

 

[JNordgren42]

I'm SO close to ordering my printer (almost certainly a Saturn). Does anyone have experiences they'd like to share with different resins? Siraya Tech Build looks very interesting, but I'd love to see what works for everyone.

 

[ID10T]

Well, I have limited experience, but here it is:

Elegoo standard resin is fine for low-detail, robust parts. This resin is a bit brittle and fine details will break off. Oh, and don't drop it! Internal stress of hollowed parts seems high; or perhaps it is simply because I didn't have drain holes in the particular part. But it broke, thereby relieving the stress and the pieces were so tweaked they could not be reassembled.

Elegoo water-wash came with my printer (a sample) and I printed the rooks successfully with it. It cleaned up easily with tap water and the detail seems good. I only did this one (set of) piece(s), so I can't comment on durability.

Elegoo ABS-like resin seems like the winner for me. Cure times are exactly the same (both gray color- times vary with color!) as standard resin and durability is better, if you need fine details. Slightly more expensive.

Elegoo clear ABS-like resin I own, but have not used yet. Much longer cure times are required for clear v. gray, and I bought it for a specific purpose I'm not ready to print yet.

 

[JNordgren42]

Well, I have limited experience, but here it is:

Elegoo standard resin is fine for low-detail, robust parts. This resin is a bit brittle and fine details will break off. Oh, and don't drop it! Internal stress of hollowed parts seems high; or perhaps it is simply because I didn't have drain holes in the particular part. But it broke, thereby relieving the stress and the pieces were so tweaked they could not be reassembled.

Elegoo water-wash came with my printer (a sample) and I printed the rooks successfully with it. It cleaned up easily with tap water and the detail seems good. I only did this one (set of) piece(s), so I can't comment on durability.

Elegoo ABS-like resin seems like the winner for me. Cure times are exactly the same (both gray color- times vary with color!) as standard resin and durability is better, if you need fine details. Slightly more expensive.

Elegoo clear ABS-like resin I own, but have not used yet. Much longer cure times are required for clear v. gray, and I bought it for a specific purpose I'm not ready to print yet.

Thanks for your input ID10T!

I ordered my Saturn and it should arrive this Friday. I decided to try the Siraya Tech Build resin to start with. I've heard good things about it, and I'll report back with how it works out. I've got a short list of other resins to try as well. I can't wait to start experimenting!

 

[ajaxjones]

Elegoo std grey is pretty good, the ABS gives more flexibility in the prints but stinks, the water cleanable stuff I see a lot of people end up with cracked prints. Possibly down to thickness, but doesnt happen with the std grey stuff.