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Question Stolen B - In relation to the final hand-sanded diffuse layer, is it possible to see a pic of the final surface, does it still have the sanding marks of the prototype or is it more uniformed now, its hard to tell in the lighted photo, thanks...
Please put me down for a "Stolen A" kit version, with full electronics package.
It very much has marks. The intent was to match the look of the animated prop. Laser engraving wasn't giving the kind of definition I needed so I switched to really abusing the acrylic with 80-grit sandpaper.
It is hard to photograph any of this, as there is a real depth effect and the look changes with every minute change of angle. But you can get a pretty good sense of what it looks like if you imagine roughing up a sheet of acrylic with coarse sandpaper.
Oh and as a side note; yes, it is a slightly better match for what was seen in the animated episode, but the original design (with the laser engraving AND the additional circuitry layer) really does look better.
Two additional notes here; I will ship a circuitry layer in pale blue with every "Stolen B" kit. Your option as to whether to use it. And unlike all the other kits, in which the diffusion layer is laser-engraved with the artwork, the "Stolen B" in kit -- unassembled -- form ships with clean unmarked acrylic. Your choice whether to sand softly or distress it properly.
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Sharken Beard
Active Member
By original design, do you mean the Stolen A? Because while I definitely want to match the animated episode, ultimately I want the better looking one! Thanks!
Here: as a reminder, the Cade Bane "Stolen" Holocron looked like this:
Due to the constraints of the material, the acrylic model has thicker edges all around, and the corners do not go to almost-touching the outside as in the original. Part of this is the box-in-box construction I chose for ease in assembly, but colored acrylic isn't available in thinner than 1/8" (nominal). So you end up with a little under a quarter inch of exposed edges that need to be hidden within the overlap.
There's a darkening and faint chroma change in the corners of the Cade Bane as well. It is possible Tamiya translucent color might provide this, sprayed from the inside, or even theatrical gel carefully snipped and glued into the corners somehow.
And of course the corners don't rotate. Nor does it come apart!
My "Stolen A" design is a further compromise that adds detail not evident in that screen shot to make a more interesting looking prop. It is barely defensible that, given the simplistic style of the animation, the "real" thing had that detail and it wasn't visible in the animation. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
Due to the constraints of the material, the acrylic model has thicker edges all around, and the corners do not go to almost-touching the outside as in the original. Part of this is the box-in-box construction I chose for ease in assembly, but colored acrylic isn't available in thinner than 1/8" (nominal). So you end up with a little under a quarter inch of exposed edges that need to be hidden within the overlap.
There's a darkening and faint chroma change in the corners of the Cade Bane as well. It is possible Tamiya translucent color might provide this, sprayed from the inside, or even theatrical gel carefully snipped and glued into the corners somehow.
And of course the corners don't rotate. Nor does it come apart!
My "Stolen A" design is a further compromise that adds detail not evident in that screen shot to make a more interesting looking prop. It is barely defensible that, given the simplistic style of the animation, the "real" thing had that detail and it wasn't visible in the animation. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
xcelsior
Well-Known Member
StarHelix
New Member
I would like the fully completed/finished 'Stolen A'. My only real concern is the paint job on the shells seems to be quite different in every shot (possibly just the lighting). Which picture is the most representative of what I'd be receiving? I'm partial to this one:
Thanks.
Thanks.
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Sharken Beard
Active Member
Ha! Thank you for that explanation! If I could, I would like to change mine to the Stolen A unassembled, with full electronics.
And I will stop asking questions and wait patiently from now on...
Thank you!
And I will stop asking questions and wait patiently from now on...
Thank you!
Good eye. I've used Bronze, Copper, and Gold on various of the prototype shells, with the "Stolen A" prototype getting an additional going-over with weathering in green and brown and greenish brown. I'm going to photograph all of them under the same lighting conditions after I've finished the first production-model "Stolen A" and completed a "Temple A" (not that anyone has been interested in that one, not yet).
Although I should point out that, despite being optimized for the "Temple" shell, the combination of "Guardian" diffusion and "Gallifrey" circuit (which I really should have called the "Lukeisoverhere" layer) will work in a "Stolen" shell.
I tossed this exact combination over over in my mind for days, would look sweet, I think with to many options you end up like a kid in a lolly shop
MilesAtreides
Member
I'll take a completed and assembled Temple A with lukeisoverhere layer " heavy weathered"
Thx
Thx
StarHelix
New Member
Understood. Please put me down for completed Stolen A with the shell color shown in the pic above. Thanks.
If its not to late, would it be possible to see a mock up of a "Stolen A" shell with the combination of "Guardian" diffusion and "Gallifrey" circuit?
Also can the "standard" diffusion cube be replaced with a "hypercube" diffusion cube? and do you think it would visually work or would there be too much going on inside?
Also can the "standard" diffusion cube be replaced with a "hypercube" diffusion cube? and do you think it would visually work or would there be too much going on inside?
Sorry, slight delay.
I was building the first production model (as a double-check of all parts before I sent any kits out, either) and I'm afraid the USB just doesn't work for me.
So I'm working on a better arrangement for that connector. Fortunately I won't have to throw out too many already-cut pieces this time.
I was building the first production model (as a double-check of all parts before I sent any kits out, either) and I'm afraid the USB just doesn't work for me.
So I'm working on a better arrangement for that connector. Fortunately I won't have to throw out too many already-cut pieces this time.
Just cut the revised USB pieces. Totally worth it. I'll have the first of the production run completed this weekend, and will be cutting the remainder of the parts I need to send out kits the following week.
Also completed the 1.1 version circuit board, but I may send that back to the drafting table...I may have figured out a reasonably budget way to make it talk.
Also completed the 1.1 version circuit board, but I may send that back to the drafting table...I may have figured out a reasonably budget way to make it talk.
