HCG Korben Dallas Blaster STRIPDOWN - pic heavy

Sidewinder

Sr Member
I got my HCGKD with a wobbly trigger that you could push up inside the body almost. The electronics all still worked, therefore I figured it was a mechanical faliure inside somewhere. So instead of sending it back to Propstore for a swap (which would cost me for postage) I decided to have a go at fixing it myself. :confused
Having studied the piece for 5 mins I decided the top and bottom halves were fixed together and that the muzzle might have some involvement.

So! Pliers at the ready I grabbed the muzzle and twisted! :eek
HCGKDstrip%20A.JPG


Ok, I was a bit more careful than that and actually used cloth to protect the muzzle part from the plier jaws, but I did twist it and off it popped. :thumbsup

HCGKDstrip%20B.JPG


Now on mine, a bit of glue had stuck a wire to the muzzle part (not shown here) and I had to cut it off - turned out it was a trigger wire as the trigger stopped working. A quick solder and tape job sorted that out though. :)

Next came the muzzle plate which was carefully prised off with a screwdriver...
HCGKDstrip%20C.JPG



...revealing it to be fixed via two pegs into the body.
HCGKDstrip%20D.JPG


Note that there is a flat on the muzzle so it doesn't interfere with the circuitboard.
HCGKDstrip%20E.JPG


The removed parts.
HCGKDstrip%20F.JPG


Lots of wires and stuff can be seen more clearly. The above parts had no involvement in holding the halves togther but certainly made access to the inside easier.
Now the nitty gritty of splitting the body begins.
HCGKDstrip%20G.JPG


I inserted a broad flat bladed screwdriver in the gaps between the silver(bottom) and Black(top) halves seen above either side of the barrel hole and twisted. I felt the front of the blaster crack open a bit and give and could then flex it slightly by hand. I also chipped some resin and paint off around the hole :eek but was fortunate that putting the plate back covered these nicely. :)

By wiggling the body at various points I could tell I had released the area in front of the side discs but that from there backwards was still solid. I used a torch to look down inside, moving the wires aside with a screwdriver and saw some sort of pillar with what looked like glue around it - aha!
HCGKDstrip%20H.JPG


The bright rectangle (top) inside the hole is (an actually black painted) part of the top half, below it is a silver block that I thought must be part of the bottom half.
So I positioned my flat driver at the intersection and gave it a few experimental whacks thusly:
HCGKDstrip%20I.JPG


HCGKDstrip%20J.JPG


Something went crack, oops I thought and stopped. :confused However the two halves would now flex slightly open further back and seemed to be only secured right at the rear of the body. :thumbsup
In for a penny in for a pound, I firmly gripped the body, inserted a finger in the barrel hole and pulled the top half away. It flexed for a moment and then something snapped and I had two seperate halves.
HCGKDstrip%20K.JPG

I checked for damage along the seam and found it to be negligible, putting the two parts back together left it looking as if nothing had happened. Yay!
Opening up revealed the damage wrought, there was indeed a central pillar where the resin gave way and an area at the rear, again where the resin had failed not the glue.
HCGKDstrip%20L.JPG


As the blaster went back together again and a test of the 'tronics revealed they still worked I was mighty pleased. My example appears to have not been glued around its periphery (prob to avoid glue seepage) which would have made this job harder.
HCGKDstrip%20M.JPG


HCGKDstrip%20N.JPG


Now the reason for the trigger malfunction was clear, there is a block glued on top of the trigger to retain it and allow it to slide back and forth on a spring benaeth the trigger switch.
HCGKDstrip%20O.JPG


I could simply pluck mine out.

HCGKDstrip%20P.JPG


So all I need do now is properly secure the block in place to allow the trigger to move freely and reassemble.
HCGKDstrip%20Q.JPG


However, now I had it apart, upgrading with metal parts for the side discs, muzzle, muzzle plate etc. was made possible...

That's a different thread though I think.

SAS
 
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Or stupid, 'pends how one looks at it!

Oh yeah, I found a secret edition number too - on my plaque it says #353 but scribed inside on each half is '509' (looks like its scribed by hand but could be just cast in - hard to tell)!

SAS
 
However, now I had it apart, upgrading with metal parts for the side discs, muzzle, muzzle plate etc. was made possible...

That's a different thread though I think.

SAS

First off - you're a BRAVE man!

Second off - I think it's safe to say that you've voided your warranty! ;)

Third - I vote to keep the metal upgrade element in this thread; it's such a great start.

And if I may be so bold as to start down that path...

It looks like the muzzle itself may be a quick and easy upgrade. But correct me if I'm wrong; the side discs look as if they're simply molded into the top half of the gun, as an integral part. They're not separate resin pieces are they?

So if you have the gun apart as you do, it may be possible to dremel or otherwise cut them out. But it seems from the pics that if you do NOT have the gun parted in two, then good luck getting the discs out...

Thoughts...?
 
Disclaimer:
Only attempt this at your own risk, I accept no responsibility for anyone copying my actions and ballsing it up.
Disclaimer ends.

Yup, the muzzle and plate are relatively easy to remove, very little glue appears to have been used. The side discs are molded into the body and will be tricky even with the gun in bits.
Hand dremelling them away entirely is doable with care but this might leave the upper body weakened - though there is about 5mm of resin thickness behind most of the disc's surface.

I'm tempted to secure the upper body in my miller and partially remove the resin but not to full depth, maybe leaving the bottom 1mm thickness of the original resin disc and making up the removed portion with lathed metal parts.
The side with the button will need extra care to maintain its functionality methinks.

SAS
 
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Yeah... Looks like a tough job. And don't the green LEDs in the disc center light up? So there's wiring to be concerned with too...
 
Thanks so very much for sharing this with us. VERY informative and helpful. I, too, am very eager to upgrade mine with aluminum parts and possibly replacing the red LED with a red laser (since they are small and cheap these days).

A laser pointer, a few machined aluminum pieces, some milling on the resin discs, etc. and the blaster would be extremely improved.

Of course, I'm too chicken :confused to rip mine open yet...I just got it this week.
 
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That was pretty much my thought.

I only took the chance 'cos of me bust trigger.

SAS

If there is a concern about the structural integrity of the part the two discs are part of, perhaps milling down the resin discs flush with the sides (or maybe slightly lower) and affixing metal replacements over the remainder will help with that issue. Just my initial thoughts on that.
Of course, I'm too chicken :confused to rip mine open yet...I just got it this week.
 
Grinding down the resin disc, from the outside with the gun intact, would (seems to me) be a matter of a steady hand and finesse.

Seems the greatest challenge would be that if you have ONE slip beyond the diameter of the disc, then the gun body will like be marred and scarred, even if you do a good repair job.

May be prudent to again state that this is probably not a great idea, and the returns may not be worth risk when considering just how fine looking the prop is stock out of the box.
 
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If the gun is securely mounted in a milling machine, the disc can be shaved or removed precisely in the hands of a good machinist.

By hand....:unsure I wouldn't chance it but I get alot of machining done on my guns and misc. props and those milling machines are deadly precise
 
Good points... problem for me is that I don't have access to such machines... :unsure

By the way, I was thinking that this is a good opportunity for Sidewinder to add a sound chip!
 
Battery drain solution:


The problem is that if you leave the batteries in place they will have discharged to 0V in less than 110hours, possibly 3 to 4 days. This is because the on/off switch only disconnects the LED & display supply but the batteries are still discharging through the PCB electronics at greater than 2mA.
The batteries have a capacity when new of 220mAH.

REMOVE the batteries & proceed as follows:-

It is NOT necessary to remove the PCB or switch from the body.

1. There are two red wires connected from the PCB at SW1 & SW2 which are
connected to the on/off switch.
2. Cut both these red wires at their middle point.
3. Connect together the two red wires from SW1 & SW2 & cover with an insulation tape.
4. You now have two red wires connected to the on/off switch. (Now follow 5. & 6. )
5. Identify the red wire which comes from the battery & is connected to VCC on the
PCB, disconnect this at the taped joint. (if there is no joint cut it at the midway point).
6. Connect one of the red wires in 4. to one of the red wires in 5. & cover the joint with
insulation tape.
7. Connect the remaining red wire in 4. to the remaining red wire in 5. & cover with
insulation tape.

Check your work against the instructions & if you are happy you should now be able to insert the batteries (fit new ones if the old ones have been in place more than 24hours)
& the display & LED should work as before. The batteries should last a lot longer, as long as you switch the on/off switch OFF when not in use.
 
The shaft that goes into the blaster's body is ID is 13.3mm OD goes from 19.4 - 19.7mm (not perfectly round). Is that what you were after?

FJ - yup, have to wear reinforced pants and everything :)

SAS
 
Damn, I have one of these but I would crap myself trying to take it apart. Metal upgrades would be great though, that's the only real gripe I have with this gun.
 
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