lonepigeon the Dux mirror I have is not white like I had said, it’s more of a grey/light blue. I think it may be “sky blue” from your catalog color chart, so I’m leaning more towards “baby blue” for our purposes.
Gremlins Bathroom Buddy
- Thread starter laellee
- Start date
No, I don't plan on ever using it, I just want it to be usable, if that makes sense.
Ah, I get it now.
Those ARE your clippers lol.... I have a pair of good ones as well, but I used yours as they are so pristine. On that note, the broken pair I bought ended up being 'Revlon' engraved... Not the 'R' version, but the 'Revlon' script like so:
I DID REMEASURE ALL OF THE CLIPPERS AS WELL..... Turns out just about any toe-nail size clipper will fit in the slot, the variation is closer to .5mm in width. The original unstamped, 'R' stamped, and 'Revlon' script levers are all identical in size, and will interchange. I do think someone with patience could file and polish out the stampings if they had the proper equipment, but it would be an undertaking; the stamps are pretty deep. Unless you're a nitpicker like me, I would be satisfied with a stamped version if that's all I could get my hands on. The lever could always be changed out later anyways.
In regards to replica pieces being made-
Jamesfett I completely appreciate wanting close-enough original pieces over replicas. For my part, I want all pieces as visually 'correct' as I can get them, so the prophy 'gummer', mirror and the toothbrush will all be replicated. Those pieces are getting masters worked up now with a combination of vintage found items and 3d assets, then the individual components will go through molding, casting, and assembly to get some really high quality replicas. TL;DR: I want the pieces manufacturer quality, so cast not painted colors and translucent finishes, correct mirror glass inserts, correct tuft count in the toothbrush heads, etc, and no raw 3d printed parts. I aa also calling it right now lol, the day after I get this toothbrush jig done, a huge stash of correct translucent brushes are going to come available on Ebay and I will be brushing my teeth with replicas for the next year
Internal storage in the Buddy:
scarf man When I built the old-school V2/V3 Buddy, I had included a void inside for a small aerosol can with a lever action through the orange button to make the buddy at least spit foam or gel; that little travel aerosol could just barely fit inside the body, and accessing it was a pain in the ass as well (through a panel under the vanity mirror door).
The current body is even smaller, but there is still space in the center of the buddy that could be used. At least 25mmx25mmx100mm (1"x1"x4") useable up the center? The red box in the render below is that useable box area, the blue pieces are all the tool cutouts. I don't want to add any obvious cut lines or access panels to my own Buddy exterior, that's why I was working with the recess under the vanity mirror door.
Fantastic, it looks like there’s enough room inside to ponder a few things like a syringe for toothpaste, maybe a button cell & tiny board for the light, just riffing.
laellee bummer about the engraved clippers, but it wasn’t too expensive. The Osung looks great cut down, in fact all the parts look killer in their proper spot and pinned in. Just stellar work!
Now, a few observations on the screen used prop.
Firstly in red circles. What do we think of these discolorations, filled in holes that accessed the interior, perhaps planned but not finished “functions”?
Secondly, it looks as though both ends of the razor head were shortened and the blade was removed for “actor safety” presumably. I’ve mentioned before that the other end of the razor head was ground down, but just recently noticed this end in this particular pic. I don’t think an un-modded razor head will clear the buddy body and nest in its slot.
Lastly, I see a hint of a “cork washer” on the toothbrush pin.
just riffing.laellee bummer about the engraved clippers, but it wasn’t too expensive. The Osung looks great cut down, in fact all the parts look killer in their proper spot and pinned in. Just stellar work!
Now, a few observations on the screen used prop.
Firstly in red circles. What do we think of these discolorations, filled in holes that accessed the interior, perhaps planned but not finished “functions”?
Secondly, it looks as though both ends of the razor head were shortened and the blade was removed for “actor safety” presumably. I’ve mentioned before that the other end of the razor head was ground down, but just recently noticed this end in this particular pic. I don’t think an un-modded razor head will clear the buddy body and nest in its slot.
Lastly, I see a hint of a “cork washer” on the toothbrush pin.
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Those ARE your clippers lol.... I have a pair of good ones as well, but I used yours as they are so pristine. On that note, the broken pair I bought ended up being 'Revlon' engraved... Not the 'R' version, but the 'Revlon' script like so:
View attachment 1851751
I DID REMEASURE ALL OF THE CLIPPERS AS WELL..... Turns out just about any toe-nail size clipper will fit in the slot, the variation is closer to .5mm in width. The original unstamped, 'R' stamped, and 'Revlon' script levers are all identical in size, and will interchange. I do think someone with patience could file and polish out the stampings if they had the proper equipment, but it would be an undertaking; the stamps are pretty deep. Unless you're a nitpicker like me, I would be satisfied with a stamped version if that's all I could get my hands on. The lever could always be changed out later anyways.
In regards to replica pieces being made-
Jamesfett I completely appreciate wanting close-enough original pieces over replicas. For my part, I want all pieces as visually 'correct' as I can get them, so the prophy 'gummer', mirror and the toothbrush will all be replicated. Those pieces are getting masters worked up now with a combination of vintage found items and 3d assets, then the individual components will go through molding, casting, and assembly to get some really high quality replicas. TL;DR: I want the pieces manufacturer quality, so cast not painted colors and translucent finishes, correct mirror glass inserts, correct tuft count in the toothbrush heads, etc, and no raw 3d printed parts. I aa also calling it right now lol, the day after I get this toothbrush jig done, a huge stash of correct translucent brushes are going to come available on Ebay and I will be brushing my teeth with replicas for the next year
Internal storage in the Buddy:
scarf man When I built the old-school V2/V3 Buddy, I had included a void inside for a small aerosol can with a lever action through the orange button to make the buddy at least spit foam or gel; that little travel aerosol could just barely fit inside the body, and accessing it was a pain in the ass as well (through a panel under the vanity mirror door).
The current body is even smaller, but there is still space in the center of the buddy that could be used. At least 25mmx25mmx100mm (1"x1"x4") useable up the center? The red box in the render below is that useable box area, the blue pieces are all the tool cutouts. I don't want to add any obvious cut lines or access panels to my own Buddy exterior, that's why I was working with the recess under the vanity mirror door.
View attachment 1851752
Holy good goodness you are a Prop Master!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Obviously we all need the pink funky brush.
On the mirror it's sounds like you are doing the base piece, which is great. One less think to make.
Are you going to offer the mirror as well? Hinge system?
toothbrush mod: So I think I mentioned, the Buddy is a lot smaller than I initially thought,, and some of the tools have been modified to fit. The razor was cut down to fit it's upper notch, otherwise that notch would be cut past the width of the toothbrush slot:
interior access: There are a few spots on the buddy that have been filled, and a ton of tooling marks. Those two filled spots underneath the door definitely look purposefully made and then filled. It would have been a decent spot to run feed hoses for the spray effects I suppose. I don't think any of the 'power' for those was onboard while shooting , it would be easier to run feed tubes from the razor and toothbrush, through the body, and then off to a guy ready to 'syringe' the liquid through on cue. Just my two cents, but that's how I would do it
cork washers: I just ordered craft cork sheeting. The cork helps center the tools, but I think it's main purpose was to keep them from flopping out of the body as easily.
vanity mirror: I have the mirror door patterned to be cut in white acrylic, and the mirror door in mirror-backed acrylic. I have a white fur fabric that looks like a good match, and a template for spray-dying the stripes on. There door is held on with two brass hobby hinges. I have a set that are the correct width but am still looking for another style that I think is a little more accurate.
The hinges are approximately 1/2" wide, box style brass hobby hinges. The set I currently have has four fingers, but I think the correct style has five with a slightly narrower center finger as seen below. Five finger hinges are easy to find larger than 1/2", but smaller, not so much (of course). We can file this under 'stuff no one else will ever see or care about', but I would like to get it right
l:Here's a few other details I've figured out that might help:
Pivot pins for tools: I matched 16 gauge escutcheon pins in brass. You can also find them in vintage (darkened), I'm doing that myself
Tubing: 3/16" (ID) aquarium tubing
White Crest Cap: Modern caps are the same size, at least on the smaller travel tube, just need to be cut down.
Toothbrush: modified, but the final toothbrush is pretty narrow with a handle section less than 10mm or 3/8" wide.
Black and orange caps: Black caps are approximately 15mm, the orange screw cap looks to be 9/16" diameter
I did mention the “cork washers” about a month ago, but it didn’t spark any discussion. I mentioned them again because I hadn’t noticed them on the toothbrush side of the buddy before. I had been assuming the tools on that side had thicker handles, and therefore didn’t need washers.
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ArborlyMink
New Member
Sorry if this has been asked before but do you ever plan on selling replicas of this?
Where we stand now on identification of the main tools.
…and my take on a hypothetical bathroom buddy jr. using the Revlon fingernail clippers.
Plenty of room for extra Proxabrush heads.
EDIT: updated the pic with lonepigeon’s new toothbrush info. rather than posting again so soon.
…and my take on a hypothetical bathroom buddy jr. using the Revlon fingernail clippers.
Plenty of room for extra Proxabrush heads.
EDIT: updated the pic with lonepigeon’s new toothbrush info. rather than posting again so soon.
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lonepigeon
Master Member
Sorry for the long delay in posting this. I've been busy with work and was on vacation last week.
So....
The correct toothbrush is the Vistron Pro Guard 425 (shown here in light blue as it is the only correct shape one I've been able to find).
I also picked up the Pro Guard 430 in the correct translucent red. I plan to use this one for my Bathroom Buddy until I can find a 425.
Both toothbrushes are the same length, handle area is the same, but the head and neck proportions change for the different tuft count.
The "PRO" part of the handle text is visible in some pics of the original prop. The USA and injection mold spot just below the bristles are also visible in prop pics.
So....
The correct toothbrush is the Vistron Pro Guard 425 (shown here in light blue as it is the only correct shape one I've been able to find).
I also picked up the Pro Guard 430 in the correct translucent red. I plan to use this one for my Bathroom Buddy until I can find a 425.
Both toothbrushes are the same length, handle area is the same, but the head and neck proportions change for the different tuft count.
The "PRO" part of the handle text is visible in some pics of the original prop. The USA and injection mold spot just below the bristles are also visible in prop pics.
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lonepigeon
Master Member
More detailed information...
Correct model: Pro Guard 425 (Medium - 55 tuft)
Other similar models:
Pro Guard 430 (Med Soft - 43 tuft)
Pro Guard 420 (Soft - 43 tuft)
Pro (Soft - 43 tuft, star pattern on handle instead of GUARD)
All of the above were made at the same time, same handle style, and available in transparent red.
I pieced together this company history from several sources to make sense of the company name changes.
They were making brushes for over a century...
The Florence Manufacturing Company was founded in 1866 in Florence, Massachusetts.
The company changed its name to Pro-Phy-Lac-Tic Brush Company in 1924. The company opened a factory in Shanghai, China with 600 workers in the early 20th century to manufacture brush bristles to send to the Florence location for final production.
They were bought out by Warner-Lambert Pharmaceutical Co. in 1930. In the 1940's they created the trade name Prolon for their Dupont bristles and many other plastic items they made such as dinnerware.
Warner-Lambert Pharmaceutical Co. is purchased by Standard Oil Co. in 1963 and they rename Pro-Phy-Lac-Tic to Vistron-Pro.
The Pro-Phy-Lac-Tic 55 tuft toothbrush head was made at least as far back as 1955 (see vintage ad), but the shape (especially the handle) has changed shape over the years.
Correct model: Pro Guard 425 (Medium - 55 tuft)
Other similar models:
Pro Guard 430 (Med Soft - 43 tuft)
Pro Guard 420 (Soft - 43 tuft)
Pro (Soft - 43 tuft, star pattern on handle instead of GUARD)
All of the above were made at the same time, same handle style, and available in transparent red.
I pieced together this company history from several sources to make sense of the company name changes.
They were making brushes for over a century...
The Florence Manufacturing Company was founded in 1866 in Florence, Massachusetts.
The company changed its name to Pro-Phy-Lac-Tic Brush Company in 1924. The company opened a factory in Shanghai, China with 600 workers in the early 20th century to manufacture brush bristles to send to the Florence location for final production.
They were bought out by Warner-Lambert Pharmaceutical Co. in 1930. In the 1940's they created the trade name Prolon for their Dupont bristles and many other plastic items they made such as dinnerware.
Warner-Lambert Pharmaceutical Co. is purchased by Standard Oil Co. in 1963 and they rename Pro-Phy-Lac-Tic to Vistron-Pro.
The Pro-Phy-Lac-Tic 55 tuft toothbrush head was made at least as far back as 1955 (see vintage ad), but the shape (especially the handle) has changed shape over the years.
That looks like the one to me, great work lonepigeon ! Thanks for the history lesson on the company, fascinating.
lonepigeon
Master Member
I noticed more orange proxabrushes hit eBay recently too...
Whelp I finally bought them
I do check Ebay regularly anyways, but thank you lonepigeon for putting these on the radar. I didn't get a jaw-dropping deal, but he did knock a few bucks off I've got a couple of wood prototypes in process, and hopefully will have some decent update on that shortly. In the mean time, I've circled back around to the zebra fur patch on the vanity door (again lol). I have several faux fur samples and some custom stuff I have been working on, but I still feel like the original material is already out there and available if I knew what I was looking for. I am pretty settled on this faux fur fabric I have found that I shave down to length, but does anybody have any other ideas?
I have been looking for
1- All white material. I'm matching the zebra pattern anyways, so 'pre-zebra' doesn't really help lol
2- Looks to have a very thin backing that the 'fur' is sewn (manufactured) onto
3- I assume just glued onto the door (the material isn't adhesive backed)
4- I don't think the original material was a trimmed-down fur, it's just that short.
Any ways those are just my assumptions, I'm going to keep looking through vintage craft supplies. Each piece is pretty small, under 50x100mm.
