Lower wattage lasers can also be used to "etch" metal with a material called Cermark (or somethinglike that). It goes on the metal and dries, then the laser burns it into the metal leaving a black logo/design when it is done and the excess is washed off. The stuff is VERY picky and kinda a pain to work with, but gives a wonderful product when all goes well. Only thing we ever used it on was stainless steel and we only ever used the black. I think you can get it for different materials and in different colors now, but don't quote me on that.
Got a new Laser Engraver!
- Thread starter Michael Bergeron
- Start date
Rebelscum
Sr Member
I use Cermark spray to mark stainless, but I've never seen any that was anything other than black. I'm pretty sure it works on other metals, so long as they are bare metal. It can also be painted on with a brush. It does require testing to get the results you want, and doesn't have a very high resolution.
chuckysdream
Well-Known Member
@ Rebelscum:
Could you please check your mails. I sent you one, because your PM-Box is full.
BTT
Very cool, I'll have to try that stuff out.
Firefoxm31
Sr Member
There was a statement made that you can't really control the depth of cuts using a laser. I can, have, and consistently, but it takes practice. I've been using a laser cutter since 96...so, I've had lots of practice:lol
Will
Will
Any tips for a laser newbie? LOVE the Nautilus model, did you do all of that with your laser?
Rebelscum
Sr Member
I probably should have been more clear on this then. That I know of, you can't contol the depth of a laser in materials, unlike milling. Some are worse than others, like wood. That is if we're taking being precise. The process technically doesn't allow it since the end point of the effective cutting is affected by several things as it cuts, including the material. This is a limitation of the technology, not experience.
You can get close to a dimension, but unlike milling, this cannot be perfect. This is why you can't cut a pocket in a piece of material with a laser, unlike you can with a mill. The bottom will be all kinds of rough, not smooth. You can scribe materials with a laser, even deeply, but even that has its limitations and will never be precise.
Of course you could know something I don't about this, and if so, I'd love to see a laser cut 1/4" deep, 2" square pocket with a smooth bottom in a piece of clear acrlyic. I'd love to be able to do this.
shagger999uk
Well-Known Member
OB - once the Gutenberg bible project is complete you can laser etch plates and print your own that way........
Firefoxm31
Sr Member
I think we'll agree to disagree then Rebelscum.. I did these all from one piece of acrylic... and they are to the .001 of an inch in their respective thicknesses cut down from a piece of .250" stock. Again, it takes lots of practice... and you got to know your laser's capabilities. In everyone elses defense,most guys that use laser cutters don't use them the way in which I do.
Cheers,
Will
Ok, here's the basics for finding depth and smoothness. make a square in corel and fill it with a color, preferably the top color on your color key for cutting order in the properties box.
now change your ppi and res settings. resolution at 5 and ppi at say 600 raster the square, check for smoothness and depth, check it with depth guage. it takes time but it does work, just gotta fiddle with speed and power till you have it where you need it. I also gently sandblast the parts (depending) after finishing the raw cuts. This is how you know what material will yield what results.
Cheers,
Will
Ok, here's the basics for finding depth and smoothness. make a square in corel and fill it with a color, preferably the top color on your color key for cutting order in the properties box.
now change your ppi and res settings. resolution at 5 and ppi at say 600 raster the square, check for smoothness and depth, check it with depth guage. it takes time but it does work, just gotta fiddle with speed and power till you have it where you need it. I also gently sandblast the parts (depending) after finishing the raw cuts. This is how you know what material will yield what results.
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OB - once the Gutenberg bible project is complete you can laser etch plates and print your own that way........
If only it were big enough and I had room for 1300 plates! :lol
Architect
Active Member
I have a question. can it be used on poly carbonate? I have something I would like etched through to make some templates out of either poly or really thin acrylic(1/16th of an inch or thinner.) the item I am wanting would have to be transparent so that I can look though it to see where materials are placed under it before beginning the marking process.
Architect
Active Member
sorry to double post here but I thought this would be worth mentioning. what about making custom stencils of tattoos from movies and such. that way a person could easily have a henna temporary tattoo done for say a costume for a convention or some such, for compound curves if a silicone or latex rubber sheet could be engraved though I am sure they would work for the process and for flatter or cylindrical areas I am betting the hard but thin plastic would work 9say the arm or a back or chest.) also smaller ones like a barcode would be easy no matter where it is being placed in most instances.
On vacation until next week.
I'll look into those questions when I get back but there might be some laser experts here with answers.
Architect
Active Member
ok will be waiting as no one else seemed to pipe up.On vacation until next week.
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