Got a new Laser Engraver!

[Michael Bergeron]

Hey Guys,

I have always wanted a laser cutter/engraver so recently when I found one for $900 I jumped on it. It's one of the Chinese ones that you see on ebay and I didn't exactly get my hopes up but here's my experience.

Shipping was $300 which I thought was fair. It arrived quite quickly and was shipped with a tracking number so all good there. When it arrived everything looked to be in good order with the exception of the laser tube which was broken. I was mortified thinking I had just wasted $1200 on something that would never work. I emailed the seller with a pic and he was very apologetic, he told me that he'd send me a new laser tube right away.

The next day I got a tracking number and a week later the new *and unbroken* laser was in my hands. I set it up on the machine and gave her a test drive. It works!

This post serves three purposes:

A - I always hear negative stories about ebay transactions, personally I've only ever had one problem in all my dealings. This transaction and customer service was top notch especially with all the stigma that usually comes with Chinese dealers.

B - I'm hoping someone can help me with a question I have.

C - I'm looking for ideas for uses of my new toy!


I've run some tests engraving MDF and Acrylic blocks and my main use for this will probably be for making rubber stamps for paper props. As for the strength of the laser I can etch metal and engrave most other surfaces. For cutting I can cut through about 3mm of materials like wood and acrylic (deeper if I do two passes). I can enragve about 8" x 5" size material tops, not huge but considering larger machines are in the $20,000 range it'll do me just fine. The cut quality is very good by the way, small details come out crisply.

My question though is does anyone know how to cut in vector mode for one of these machines? The program it came with is called "Newlyseal" and it seems to only work in raster mode. I'm sure it's something stupid I'm missing.

So what stuff should I make? Any ideas? It's my hope to recoup a bit of the cost by selling custom made stamps and the like as well. One thing I'd *REALLY* like to try and figure out is how to make the top to the Master's ring from Doctor Who.

 

[LizardJedi]

The program I've used (CorealDraw), in order to use a vector cut, your path must be a "hairline" thickness for it to cut (vector).

Even if its a vector path, if it has any thickness, it'll cut it as raster.

 

[replicaprops]

I have a CNC mill and one thing I found is the software it comes with is never the one you end up using. Laser machines from China are abundant and most of the dealers advertise on alibaba.com . You can usually find dozens of dealers there and from those links find links to their websites. There you will find all sorts of free software packages. Some will import only images, while others will import vectors from Corel draw. Corel is the default software china by and large chose for laser machines.

I have been waiting for a few years to buy a 80 watt machine so I did a little research here and there. You need to make sure your machine can handle vectors because some machines hardware can not. So then you must make sure you convert your vectors to really high resolution images or you will get artifacts in your engravings.

Just remember the laser tubes have limited lives and after you learn to use the machine you will want to limit your playing around time to lengthen the life of the tube. Then again china tubes are really cheap now so it may be a non issue if you have a decent price.

 

[Michael Bergeron]

Just remember the laser tubes have limited lives and after you learn to use the machine you will want to limit your playing around time to lengthen the life of the tube. Then again china tubes are really cheap now so it may be a non issue if you have a decent price.

Yep, I've been limiting my tests to very small things to try and preserve the laser.

So anyone have any ideas of props I can work on with this puppy?

 

[BedlamX]

And be sure to clean the mirrors and lenses. Dirt accumulation (even the dust from the usage) can severely mess up the lenses as the laser passes through. My roommate had a Jameson laser (still has it, just ain't a roommate anymore) and it was a beauty to use...as long as you kept everything nice and clean.

 

[Rebelscum]

I have an Epilog laser I use daily for cutting and engraving.

A quick google finds Newlyseal may import corel draw images for cutting just fine.

If so, I'd be happy to send you a test file to try out. email me at philip@rebelscum.com.

 

[Architect]

Yep, I've been limiting my tests to very small things to try and preserve the laser.

So anyone have any ideas of props I can work on with this puppy?

I too own a CNC mill (I built myself)

with the specs being something like
*cutting area*
18 in L x 14 in W x 7 in H
resolution is 0.00025 in

not sure about anyone else but I would be interested in trading in the future maybe work for work or some such. Can't really say more now but I will talk to you later if you like say in the JY when I become a full member.

I have been looking at making a very low power version of one of these out of a diode laser and general mill design. Mine would basically be for etching off enamel or epoxy paint from copper clad board so I can acid etch my own PCB boards. Something with a 4th axis so the part could be flipped over to etch the backs for double sided boards. Have to wait to see what all I can do with the units though. (the laser diodes)

 

[TheSt.LouisKid]

I did this on a laser we had at a place I used to work at.

 

[Stefan Jones]

I still want the zippo from watchmen have engraved......and Adamas lighter from BSG when that works

 

[Rebelscum]

I still want the zippo from watchmen have engraved......and Adamas lighter from BSG when that works

It takes a much more powerful laser to cut metal than one used for etching and cutting of things like acrylic. Hitting metal with these lower power machines doesn't even **** it off, much less etch or cut it.

 

[Clutch]

I wanna see some examples of what this thing can do.

 

[Michael Bergeron]

And be sure to clean the mirrors and lenses. Dirt accumulation (even the dust from the usage) can severely mess up the lenses as the laser passes through. My roommate had a Jameson laser (still has it, just ain't a roommate anymore) and it was a beauty to use...as long as you kept everything nice and clean.

Good call! Hadn't even thought of that but it makes perfect sense. How often should I clean the mirrors and lenses? Can I just use a regular glass cleaner?

A quick google finds Newlyseal may import corel draw images for cutting just fine.

If so, I'd be happy to send you a test file to try out. email me at philip@rebelscum.com.

Thanks, I use Illustrator so that may have been my problem. I played with the laser a little longer and I got it to engrave in vector mode. I may still email you sometime though to see how a corel file works when importing.

Even if its a vector path, if it has any thickness, it'll cut it as raster.

LizardJedi for the win! Any line over .1 pt thickness cuts in raster. Lesson learned.

It takes a much more powerful laser to cut metal than one used for etching and cutting of things like acrylic. Hitting metal with these lower power machines doesn't even **** it off, much less etch or cut it.

Yep. The one I have is a 40w laser so anything it does on metal is pretty light.

And finally:

I wanna see some examples of what this thing can do.

But of course! Here's some pics of a couple tests I did:

MDF (This is King John's Seal for the Magna Carta replica that I'm making):

The same thing in Acrylic Block. About 3-4mm deep:

A quick vector test from today in MDF:

And finally a couple of tests in metal and leather:

As you can see the metal engraving pretty much just etched the paint off and kissed the metal. If it were a softer metal I'd probably get better results but this thing really isn't built for that type of thing. For the leather it just seemed to burn it, might have to try a couple more tests to see if I can get anything better.

 

[tango'd fett]

That is awesome what a great tool to have !! Can think of loads you could do with that like cutting parts for masters on props , doing lettering on prop weapons ,wasp logo from avatar weapon for example or making masters of diamond patterns on grips , possibilities are endless i suppose. I was wondering can you set the depth of cut in plastic or MDF on this ?

 

[Michael Bergeron]

I was wondering can you set the depth of cut in plastic or MDF on this ?

Yep! It all depends on the power settings I use.

 

[Anakin Starkiller]

How about studio scale x-wing hero wings.

Dan

 

[LizardJedi]

The one I've had access to (and some brief time to play with) is a 65 watt, and the only way you'll be able to do anything with metal is if you're taking off a coating (powder coat, anodizing, paint). So you need something beefier to do other stuff (and there are also some issues with reflective surfaces reflecting the beam back into the laser, thats not good)

You also want to watch out what plastic you're cutting... anything styrene (HIPS, ABS) or polycarb will release the nasty gas that can kill you and your machine.

 

[Michael Bergeron]

You also want to watch out what plastic you're cutting... anything styrene (HIPS, ABS) or polycarb will release the nasty gas that can kill you and your machine.

Well noted. I have this setup in my garage workshop and have it exhausted out the garage door. My garage has pretty good ventilation so even if I accidentally try and engrave something I shouldn't I won't keel over!

 

[Mike J.]

Cool toy

We have a laser at work that I am occasionally allowed to screw around with. Don't know any of the specs, but she can dig into metal, given a little time. We use it 'officially' to put logos on various metal things - clocks, business card holders, watch casebacks. If I'm careful, I can make my own stamps by 'etching' adhesive-backed foam rubber. I have yet to try it on real rubber. Also fun for cutting shapes in paper.

I consider a laser engraver to be the second greatest toy in the world, next to a CNC mill


-Mike

 

[Architect]

I have talked to some one who works with lasers all day long that are made to cut steel iconel you name it metal wise.

I asked about cutting some stuff and he said aluminum or steel was fine. he would have to find out about brass but copper was totally off limits due to it reflecting the laser back into the tube and ruining it. (the laser) all told he said he has access to some that are as low as 500 watt and some over 1200 watts. so (also most are CO2 based units.)

 

[Rebelscum]

You can cut styrene and abs without harm to you or your machine, but you can't cut anything made of pvc, as it off-gasses chloride, which is deadly, vented or not. Cutting that material is claimed to harm lasers, and would void the warranty on my machine.

Cutting anything polyethylene I have found melts rather than cuts. Pretty much, you can try to cut anything and it either will cut or it will melt. I'm guessing you can vary the frequency of your laser pulse, and slowing that down will allow you to cut or engrave more materials successfully.

You can't really "set the depth" of cut as it doesn't maintain a very consistent depth when you do this, but if you are just doing it for effect, it can be nice enough.

I'd get some clear cast acrylic (must be cast, not extruded), and etch the back of it after mirroring the art it in your software. That's one of the nicest effects you can get from a laser for awards, nameplates, etc. Also, you can just etch through the paper coating and make a paint mask. If you buy mirror acrylic, you can etch off the mirror and spray paint it and create something as simple as letters that show through, or go crazy and make your own Budweiser mirror, etc.

You can also etch plate glass, either on the front or reversed, like the clear acrylic. If doing so, a tip is to thoroughly wet some newspaper and place it flat to the glass over the area to be etched. It seems to assist in making the etching more consistent, not quite as perfect as sandblasting, but very nice.