Ghetto casting

Discussion in 'Replica Props' started by juno, Jul 31, 2006.

  1. juno

    juno Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  2. Jimbo890

    Jimbo890 Well-Known Member

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    On another board I read somewhere, there is a recipe for silicone mold material made from hardware store silicone caulk. IIRC, water is added in a certain ratio to react the curing catalist, and the result is a silicone mold on the cheap. You might want to PM Starkids1990 for more details.
     
  3. rigormortis

    rigormortis Well-Known Member

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    I've used it for small & quick projects. It's not as durable as the real thing, but works in a pinch. Here's the recipe...

    10oz tube GE Silicone I or II Caulk
    50 drops Glycerine per tube (catalyst)
    1-5 drops acrylic paint (to aid checking mixing)

    Sets up quick, but remains workable for about 10-15 minutes. Smooth with icecube while setting (water will not effect the curing).

    Hope that helps.
     
  4. juno

    juno Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  5. Kylash

    Kylash Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  6. rigormortis

    rigormortis Well-Known Member

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    Never had it fail, but have had it stick to the piece like a mushy gummi bear if the mixture was not mixed properly. A little soap and water cleans it right up.

    You can get glycerine from any drug store (doubt you'll find it in a hardware store). Women use it for a base for hand-made lotions.

    Please only use this knowledge for your own work, not to rip others off. People work too hard for months to have someone whip up a little silicone for a few bucks and rip them off.
     
  7. hydin

    hydin Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  8. rigormortis

    rigormortis Well-Known Member

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    Agreed. Use it only in a very well ventilated area - or your garage or workshop will reek for weeks. It's probably poisinous as well.
     
  9. hydin

    hydin Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  10. dkwd

    dkwd Well-Known Member

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    Is the Glycerine needed?
    I thought Thorston James said that one could use silicon silicone as a mold in a pinch. I'd have to check again, but I don't recall him mentioning have to mix it with anything.

    That said, I haven't tried it yet.

    David
     
  11. rigormortis

    rigormortis Well-Known Member

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    It acts as a catalyst to cure it faster, otherwise you'd have to wait several days for a thick layer to fully dry. Plus it makes it tougher than plain caulk, which you could rip with your hands. This ensures it's a little tougher.
     
  12. SurferGeek

    SurferGeek Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  13. juno

    juno Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  14. SurferGeek

    SurferGeek Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  15. Matsuo

    Matsuo Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  16. motman241

    motman241 Well-Known Member

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    I have done the caulk method - buy 100% clear, silicone caulk.... coat the item in petrolium jelly, squirt caulk all over it. Done. But, yes, it does take a long time to cure. I'll have to try the glycerine thing.
     
  17. clownluv15

    clownluv15 Well-Known Member

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    do you HAVE to coat it in petroleum jelly or will a clear coat be enough?
     
  18. motman241

    motman241 Well-Known Member

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    Silicone sticks to EVERYTHING (almost). The petrolium jelly on the project will release it when the silicone mold has cured.
     
  19. Boba Frett

    Boba Frett Sr Member

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    Use clear acrylic spraypaint, and Babylax is the brand name for the Glycerine.

    I use to do the water method, but the Glycerine and latex works alot better.

    I live in Covington, and if you want to see how it works I can show you how I just done one :)
     
  20. clownluv15

    clownluv15 Well-Known Member

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    so should i just mix a little bit and test it on a small piece of my work and see if it sticks?show how it works.
     

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