First Foam Build: Iron Man

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BlueSteel

Guest
Hey rpf-ers,
I'm new to this forum (actually, forums in general) so I apologize for filling the site up with threads of stupid questions :facepalm Figured I'd finally post a progress thread on my Mark III foam
suit so here it is! And please I'd really like to see some feedback on the quality of the foam-work, good or bad! Also, this is my first build.
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blue2k

Well-Known Member
I think this would benefit from smoother cuts (scalpel blade etc) and a little heat treating to fix the form, but apart from that it is very neat.
 
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BlueSteel

Guest
Definelty could have used some heat-forming, but I haven't a heat gun nor the money to buy one, as most of my funds need to go towards the ridiculously overpriced smoothon epsilon, along with paint and primer. Is it too late to heat form, and I'm guessing you're talking about the lack of curvature in the chest plate? Thanks for posting, and "neat" like cool or "neat" like clean? XD
 

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blue2k

Well-Known Member
Definelty could have used some heat-forming, but I haven't a heat gun nor the money to buy one, as most of my funds need to go towards the ridiculously overpriced smoothon epsilon, along with paint and primer.
Heat guns in England can be bought quite cheaply for around £25, they are kind of essential for foam work. Buying an expensive finishing product (like episilon) before buying basic tools is a bit "horse before the cart". It will trip you up at some point. My advice if you will take it? Buy a heat gun as soon as you can (or even borrow one for the job).

Is it too late to heat form, and I'm guessing you're talking about the lack of curvature in the chest plate? Thanks for posting, and "neat" like cool or "neat" like clean? XD
1: You can heat treat EVA foam at any point while unpainted. Treating after painting risks ruining the paint job (but it can be done if careful).
2: Several areas need curvature, not just the chest. If you look at your reference material, you will see that although Iron man is pretty mechanical, the armour has an almost organic flow.
3: Neat as in clean.
 
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BlueSteel

Guest
You are on track for an awesome suit!
What type of foam are you using to build this?
After months, actual months :), of searching and trial and error, I came upon hobby lobby, which sells very good sheets of foam (i think the brand is sillywinks) like $1.20 each (around 1 by 1.5-2 ft). They cut very nicely, even with a slightly dull blade. And of course, this is EVA foam, at 6mm. I found it much easier, and possibly more cost effective, than the foam mats people often get. Thanks for all the replies, guys!
 
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BlueSteel

Guest
Thanks blue, I was trying to get a hold of one but from all the research I did (fortunately, a lot) it appeared like heat guns would help a great deal, but were optional. Mixed opinions i guess :) . For my next build you can rest assured I WILL be purchasing one of my own.:lol
 

Venomsuit

Member
After months, actual months :), of searching and trial and error, I came upon hobby lobby, which sells very good sheets of foam (i think the brand is sillywinks) like $1.20 each (around 1 by 1.5-2 ft). They cut very nicely, even with a slightly dull blade. And of course, this is EVA foam, at 6mm. I found it much easier, and possibly more cost effective, than the foam mats people often get. Thanks for all the replies, guys!
Thank you for the info ma and good luck with your build!
 

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BlueSteel

Guest
Wow. Startin to realize how awful the chest piece looks.... It's far too tall and again has zero curves. My first chest plate attempt was accidentally melted by a heater that normally was never on, and I'm starting to WANT to melt this one, but I'm not too keen on disconnecting the back from the chest and then remaking it, but I think it would look overall much better if did.
 

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Venomsuit

Member
Wow. Startin to realize how awful the chest piece looks.... It's far too tall and again has zero curves. My first chest plate attempt was accidentally melted by a heater that normally was never on, and I'm starting to WANT to melt this one, but I'm not too keen on disconnecting the back from the chest and then remaking it, but I think it would look overall much better if did.
In my opinion you should finish the other pieces of the suit first. Then look at all the pieces together...It may look way better as a whole. It may not be accurate to what you wanted, but it could still be a cool, unique take on the armor. And if you get to that stage and hate it, then you can just redo the chest and be happy :)
 
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BlueSteel

Guest
Ok guys Im wondering about the legs and how they're supposed to sit on the body. I haven't made the plating for right under the cod but can someone help me out I've looked around a lot but haven't found what I'm looking for. Maybe a pic of just the boots and legs and cod on and then see how high it sits.... I think I jointed it a bit high, so I'll refit it and it should give it some more room. Also, I'm 3D printing the helm at my high school, (Rep 2) and wondering if xtc3d from smoothon is a good choice for coating it, i
dont have a whole lot of time to finish the suit, as I want to build a different suit start to finish at the start of summer. Maybe war machine? Idk. Anyways second time around is always better, and like most all of these forum members, I've gained a lot of knowledge and experience just from building! Thanks guys
 
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BlueSteel

Guest
Little bit of an update, firstly, need to remake the cod a touch larger. Abs won't tuck in under and I can't get into it. Thought out how to wear most of the suit, but how are the shoulders connected? Also, I'm around 35% done with both arms. Any thoughts? Oh and I assume an iron man red colored spandex suit should be the undersuit, but will I be able to attach joint covers on that material, and how much for what brands? Thanks, and sorry for the bombardment of questions.
 

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BlueSteel

Guest
Anybody know how to slice stls so they can fit in maker ware? I'm using drum guys Mark 3 helmet 3d print files, and the front of the mask as well as the jaw is done, but the back three pieces are huge, and won't fit in my schools replicator 2. I really need these printed out in the next week or so, or I'll be staring at a half finished helmet all summer oh, and any tips on cleaning out the supports and such? Thanks guys.
 

Bogleo

Well-Known Member
Anybody know how to slice stls so they can fit in maker ware? I'm using drum guys Mark 3 helmet 3d print files, and the front of the mask as well as the jaw is done, but the back three pieces are huge, and won't fit in my schools replicator 2. I really need these printed out in the next week or so, or I'll be staring at a half finished helmet all summer oh, and any tips on cleaning out the supports and such? Thanks guys.
Use Netfabb basic. Just import the stl and use the slider for slicing on the side. Supports are usually easy to break off, you can use a knife or dremel if you really need to.
 
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BlueSteel

Guest
Netfabb worked perfectly, thx Bogleo! Here's some light progress the pics don't do the pieces justice but I must say I'm finally producing work that I'm legitimately proud of :D clearly the helmet is printed. Is xtc-3d a good choice for finishing the helm?
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BlueSteel

Guest
Done with the shoulders now, and just need to do final building on the arms, as well as build the elbows. All I have left for building is the cod, redo the abs, and then the boots, gloves, and helmet! Almost there! And also holy crap adding the shoulders made it look so much more..... Iron Man-y. Anyhow, I want to be done building by Thursday, which is gonna be hard, but hopefully doable. Finishing printing the helmet these last four days too. Now how the heck am I gonna get that to look decent:confused updates and pics soon.
 

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