Does anyone have the link to M Bradleys web page that is the instructions for building his Fett Jet pack kit?
-Scott
-Scott
Fett jetpack toutorial (BradleyFett)
- Thread starter Dark Shadow
- Start date
ooh, there's a tutorial?
i've got a kit that i'm about to start on, and have been running through what i think it should go together like
JETPACK INSTRUCTIONS
UNPACK everything in your package carefully- some parts may be hiding in the newspaper or other packaging material!
PARTS LIST:
Styrene Vacuuformed parts:
Front body
Back body
Top body
Rear access panel
Resin parts:
Top rocket
Bottom rocket
Rocket collar
Top cylinder caps (2)
Bottom cylinder caps (2)
Piano keys (2 pieces)
Vent
Beacon 1
Beacon 2
Thruster nozzles (2)
Thruster nozzle caps (2)
If anything is missing, please contact me and I will get it to you ASAP.
There may be residual mold release on some of the vacuformed or molded parts- wash with soap and water to clean this off. Acetone may also be used to clean MOLDED PARTS ONLY. ALWAYS HAVE ADULT SUPERVISION WHEN USING ACETONE OR OTHER CHEMICALS.
Sometimes there will be small cracks that appear on the pieces when the styrene is removed from the molds. I have tried to fix these prior to shipping. However, if any remain, they are easily fixed by using Cynoacrylite glue or Devcon Plastic Welder.
What you will need to complete your jetpack:
1" DIAMETER (outside diameter) PVC PIPE
PUTTY: For filling seams there are a variety of putties on the market that will work great. For this project I recommend using Bondo brand 'spot and glazing putty' and EP-400 Epoxy Putty, both available at hardware and home-improvement stores. The EP-400 is usually in the plumbing isle.
GLUE: For gluing parts together, I recommend Zap-a-Gap, Jet, or similar brand cynoacrylate glue together with cyno accelerator (available at hobby shops). I also recommend using DEVCON Brand PLASTIC WELDER (available at WalMart and Lowe's) for an even stronger bond for some pieces.
TOOLS:
An EXACTO KNIFE with plenty of blades.
Several grades of SANDPAPER- rough grit to attack some of the seams, and finer grit to clean up the seams before painting.
DREMEL TOOL or other Moto-Tool- If you don't have this, now might be a good time to invest in one. A variable speed one is best. You will need a sanding or grinding bit, and a fiberglass-reinforced cutting wheel.
MASKING TAPE- in addition to using it for painting, this is also helpful in holding together pieces while gluing.
Other tools that will greatly help is a BAND SAW or HACK SAW and a DRILL with small bits.
CUTTING AND TRIMMING THE STYRENE PARTS: In most cases, you don't need a Dremel to cut out the pieces. Use an exacto knife and make light cuts and then go over the same cuts a little deeper. When you have made a good 'score' along the line, you can bend and flex the plastic back and forth until it snaps. Do this a couple of times and you will get the hang of it. You can clean up the edges afterwards with the xacto knife and sandpaper. You can use dremel to cut out areas that are hard to get to with the knife.
PAINTING:
This part is largely up to you. I always use standard spray paint colors, but you may choose to use an air-brush, etc. If you have bought this jetpack kit, then you already know that there is more than one color scheme to choose from. Again, this is up to you and there is a lot of photo reference available to pick your colors. I will recommend Krylon Spruce Green if you choose the ESB version.
ATTACHING A HARNESS
You can attach a harness or straps directly to the back of the pack using drywall or wood screws. Just drill a very small pilot hole and don't over-tighten the screw into the styrene. I have always attached my harness to the plastic this way with 2 screw per attachment point. Attachment points should be above or below the rear access panel for maximum strength.
FOAM FILLING YOUR JETPACK
When assembled, your jetpack will be very strong, but filling the body with foam will greatly enhance the structural integrity. This procedure can be tricky, so be very careful- you must fill it from the open rear panel a little at a time. By pouring in small amounts (about 2 ounces) and letting each expand fully before the next one, you will avoid having the foam 'bloat' the walls of the jetpack from inside. Foam filling should be done after the entire jetpack is assembled except for the rear access panel.
ABSOLUTELY DO NOT USE 'GREAT-STUFF' FOAM FROM A CAN! This foam continues to expand for days after you think it is fully cured and will eventually cause your jetpack to to bloat.
When following the instructions below, feel free to improvise as you go. There is always more than one way to do any procedure. These procedures are to give you an understanding of how the parts go together. Refer to the photos as you follow these instructions:
ASSEMBLING THE BODY
Trim styrene parts according to photos.
Clean up any rough cuts to make them as straight as possible so they mate together properly.
Use masking tape to mate the body halves and top together. Use Cynoacrylite and accelerator to glue the seams together from the inside. Also glue from the outside around the seams of the body-top piece.
When the glue is cured, remove the tape and wipe the inside dry to get rid of any accelerator residue. From the inside, use epoxy putty to reinforce the side and bottom seams. From the outside, fill in the seam where the top part meets the rest of body. After allowing the epoxy putty to dry thoroughly, sand away the excess on the outside seams. Gaps in the seams all around can be filled by applying and sanding the Bondo spot putty.
Several 'webs' always occur in certain parts. There are two at the top (see photos) as well as a ripple just above where the vent goes. The top webs can be eliminated by simply carving them out with an exacto and sanding. The ripple at the bottom should be sanded out after the vent piece is installed.
Install large PVC pipe up into the neck of the jetpack by fitting it into the styrene and gluing from inside with cynoacrylite. This will be a tight fit, but it's supposed to be. The slot cut in the pipe will help it 'compress' and fit. Clear the opening at the top by removing the styrene that hangs over the opening of the pipe.
With you Dremel cutting wheel, cut out back panel about 1'-in from the edge of the recess. This will be your access hole as you build the body.
INSTALLING VENT
Use an exacto and the template provided to but out the vent hole at the bottom. Glue in the resin vent piece with cynoacrylite. Use spot putty to clean up the outside seam where the styrene meets the resin piece.
PREPARE RESIN PARTS
Cylinder caps- sand the end that attaches to the pack and glue on using Devcon Plastic Welder.
Beacons- sand the bottom of both. These should be installed after painting.
Rocket collar- Dremel inside edge to remove any excess resin. Glue into top of the neck/PVC pipe using plastic welder. Blend seam with spot putty and sanding.
'Piano Keys'- Dremel the inside top edge (the edge you will not see when installed) to a bevel so that they will fit up under the top lip of the jetpack body. Do not install these until painted.
Thruster Nozzles- glue in small round caps in opposite sides of the two thrusters. Sand mold lines on nozzles.
Top and bottom rocket- sand mold lines and bottom post of top rocket. Bottom of rocket should be glued into the rocket collar. You can glue the top rocket into place or leave it removable. If you leave it removable, a piece of scotch tape wrapped around the post will help keep in place in the bottom rocket.
FINAL ASSEMBLY (after painting)
Install thruster nozzles:
PIC OF HOLES CUT
Cut 1" diameter circles for the thruster nozzle axle to fit through (1" PVC).
DIAGRAM OF CUT AXLE
With a band saw or hack saw, cut PVC pipe to 18". Cut a 10" 'notch' in the middle as shown in diagram. Cut slots in each end as shown.
Slide in axle as shown in diagram. Thruster nozzles should fit snugly onto ends of axle with no glue needed. You may need to sand inside the holes of the nozzles.
Glue in 'piano keys' with cynoacrylite or plastic welder
Install beacons:
Beacon #1: install long wood screw into bottom (drill pilot hole first). The length of the screw will help anchor the part into the body. Drill a hole just big enough for head of screw to fit through. Glue in beacon and use a wad of epoxy putty to secure it around the screw from the inside.
Beacon #2: Sand away a spot of paint where this piece will go. Glue into place with plastic welder.
Install rear access panel:
You can glue this into place and cover the seam with putty and sanding, or you can just attach with screws if you want to have access to the inside of the pack.
UNPACK everything in your package carefully- some parts may be hiding in the newspaper or other packaging material!
PARTS LIST:
Styrene Vacuuformed parts:
Front body
Back body
Top body
Rear access panel
Resin parts:
Top rocket
Bottom rocket
Rocket collar
Top cylinder caps (2)
Bottom cylinder caps (2)
Piano keys (2 pieces)
Vent
Beacon 1
Beacon 2
Thruster nozzles (2)
Thruster nozzle caps (2)
If anything is missing, please contact me and I will get it to you ASAP.
There may be residual mold release on some of the vacuformed or molded parts- wash with soap and water to clean this off. Acetone may also be used to clean MOLDED PARTS ONLY. ALWAYS HAVE ADULT SUPERVISION WHEN USING ACETONE OR OTHER CHEMICALS.
Sometimes there will be small cracks that appear on the pieces when the styrene is removed from the molds. I have tried to fix these prior to shipping. However, if any remain, they are easily fixed by using Cynoacrylite glue or Devcon Plastic Welder.
What you will need to complete your jetpack:
1" DIAMETER (outside diameter) PVC PIPE
PUTTY: For filling seams there are a variety of putties on the market that will work great. For this project I recommend using Bondo brand 'spot and glazing putty' and EP-400 Epoxy Putty, both available at hardware and home-improvement stores. The EP-400 is usually in the plumbing isle.
GLUE: For gluing parts together, I recommend Zap-a-Gap, Jet, or similar brand cynoacrylate glue together with cyno accelerator (available at hobby shops). I also recommend using DEVCON Brand PLASTIC WELDER (available at WalMart and Lowe's) for an even stronger bond for some pieces.
TOOLS:
An EXACTO KNIFE with plenty of blades.
Several grades of SANDPAPER- rough grit to attack some of the seams, and finer grit to clean up the seams before painting.
DREMEL TOOL or other Moto-Tool- If you don't have this, now might be a good time to invest in one. A variable speed one is best. You will need a sanding or grinding bit, and a fiberglass-reinforced cutting wheel.
MASKING TAPE- in addition to using it for painting, this is also helpful in holding together pieces while gluing.
Other tools that will greatly help is a BAND SAW or HACK SAW and a DRILL with small bits.
CUTTING AND TRIMMING THE STYRENE PARTS: In most cases, you don't need a Dremel to cut out the pieces. Use an exacto knife and make light cuts and then go over the same cuts a little deeper. When you have made a good 'score' along the line, you can bend and flex the plastic back and forth until it snaps. Do this a couple of times and you will get the hang of it. You can clean up the edges afterwards with the xacto knife and sandpaper. You can use dremel to cut out areas that are hard to get to with the knife.
PAINTING:
This part is largely up to you. I always use standard spray paint colors, but you may choose to use an air-brush, etc. If you have bought this jetpack kit, then you already know that there is more than one color scheme to choose from. Again, this is up to you and there is a lot of photo reference available to pick your colors. I will recommend Krylon Spruce Green if you choose the ESB version.
ATTACHING A HARNESS
You can attach a harness or straps directly to the back of the pack using drywall or wood screws. Just drill a very small pilot hole and don't over-tighten the screw into the styrene. I have always attached my harness to the plastic this way with 2 screw per attachment point. Attachment points should be above or below the rear access panel for maximum strength.
FOAM FILLING YOUR JETPACK
When assembled, your jetpack will be very strong, but filling the body with foam will greatly enhance the structural integrity. This procedure can be tricky, so be very careful- you must fill it from the open rear panel a little at a time. By pouring in small amounts (about 2 ounces) and letting each expand fully before the next one, you will avoid having the foam 'bloat' the walls of the jetpack from inside. Foam filling should be done after the entire jetpack is assembled except for the rear access panel.
ABSOLUTELY DO NOT USE 'GREAT-STUFF' FOAM FROM A CAN! This foam continues to expand for days after you think it is fully cured and will eventually cause your jetpack to to bloat.
When following the instructions below, feel free to improvise as you go. There is always more than one way to do any procedure. These procedures are to give you an understanding of how the parts go together. Refer to the photos as you follow these instructions:
ASSEMBLING THE BODY
Trim styrene parts according to photos.
Clean up any rough cuts to make them as straight as possible so they mate together properly.
Use masking tape to mate the body halves and top together. Use Cynoacrylite and accelerator to glue the seams together from the inside. Also glue from the outside around the seams of the body-top piece.
When the glue is cured, remove the tape and wipe the inside dry to get rid of any accelerator residue. From the inside, use epoxy putty to reinforce the side and bottom seams. From the outside, fill in the seam where the top part meets the rest of body. After allowing the epoxy putty to dry thoroughly, sand away the excess on the outside seams. Gaps in the seams all around can be filled by applying and sanding the Bondo spot putty.
Several 'webs' always occur in certain parts. There are two at the top (see photos) as well as a ripple just above where the vent goes. The top webs can be eliminated by simply carving them out with an exacto and sanding. The ripple at the bottom should be sanded out after the vent piece is installed.
Install large PVC pipe up into the neck of the jetpack by fitting it into the styrene and gluing from inside with cynoacrylite. This will be a tight fit, but it's supposed to be. The slot cut in the pipe will help it 'compress' and fit. Clear the opening at the top by removing the styrene that hangs over the opening of the pipe.
With you Dremel cutting wheel, cut out back panel about 1'-in from the edge of the recess. This will be your access hole as you build the body.
INSTALLING VENT
Use an exacto and the template provided to but out the vent hole at the bottom. Glue in the resin vent piece with cynoacrylite. Use spot putty to clean up the outside seam where the styrene meets the resin piece.
PREPARE RESIN PARTS
Cylinder caps- sand the end that attaches to the pack and glue on using Devcon Plastic Welder.
Beacons- sand the bottom of both. These should be installed after painting.
Rocket collar- Dremel inside edge to remove any excess resin. Glue into top of the neck/PVC pipe using plastic welder. Blend seam with spot putty and sanding.
'Piano Keys'- Dremel the inside top edge (the edge you will not see when installed) to a bevel so that they will fit up under the top lip of the jetpack body. Do not install these until painted.
Thruster Nozzles- glue in small round caps in opposite sides of the two thrusters. Sand mold lines on nozzles.
Top and bottom rocket- sand mold lines and bottom post of top rocket. Bottom of rocket should be glued into the rocket collar. You can glue the top rocket into place or leave it removable. If you leave it removable, a piece of scotch tape wrapped around the post will help keep in place in the bottom rocket.
FINAL ASSEMBLY (after painting)
Install thruster nozzles:
PIC OF HOLES CUT
Cut 1" diameter circles for the thruster nozzle axle to fit through (1" PVC).
DIAGRAM OF CUT AXLE
With a band saw or hack saw, cut PVC pipe to 18". Cut a 10" 'notch' in the middle as shown in diagram. Cut slots in each end as shown.
Slide in axle as shown in diagram. Thruster nozzles should fit snugly onto ends of axle with no glue needed. You may need to sand inside the holes of the nozzles.
Glue in 'piano keys' with cynoacrylite or plastic welder
Install beacons:
Beacon #1: install long wood screw into bottom (drill pilot hole first). The length of the screw will help anchor the part into the body. Drill a hole just big enough for head of screw to fit through. Glue in beacon and use a wad of epoxy putty to secure it around the screw from the inside.
Beacon #2: Sand away a spot of paint where this piece will go. Glue into place with plastic welder.
Install rear access panel:
You can glue this into place and cover the seam with putty and sanding, or you can just attach with screws if you want to have access to the inside of the pack.
Last edited:
Pictures can be found here.
http://s124.photobucket.com/albums/p7/empire1974/MB Jetpack/
I hope the pictures and instructions help. Someone on The Dented Helmet sent them to me a couple years ago.
Good Luck
Brian
http://s124.photobucket.com/albums/p7/empire1974/MB Jetpack/
I hope the pictures and instructions help. Someone on The Dented Helmet sent them to me a couple years ago.
Good Luck
Brian
The Photobucket album should be viewable to all. I removed a link in the instructions since it was inactive.
Thanks
Brian
He had a website that was very detailed. I have the link to it but it doesnt work anymore. What ever happened to it?
Anyone, Anyone?
Its not that im not satisfied. The write up that you posted is good. I remember seeing MB's site which was much more detailed with a lot more pics. Im curious if he had to take the site down.
-Scott
-Scott
Lynn TXP 0369
Sr Member
I think that is MB's write up word for word, he just copied and pasted it....... I could be wrong.
I had a hard copy with mine and it looked like that.
Lynn
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