The following is how I attached the interconnector to the No.3 on my ANH OWK saber prop.
Note- IÂ’m showing a RomanÂ’s Empire EL ready emitter which is what I had at the time, but oddly enough, the hole is the exact same size as the real deal, slightly larger than an inch.
In addition to the No3 Mk1, and Derwent Interconnector, I used two steel flat washers (stainless steel might look better) with an outside diameter of 1 inch, and an inside diameter of 3/8 inch (a common size). These can be found at Home Depot, Lowes, or Ace Hardware. Instead of using the typical 3/8-16 threaded rod, I used threaded lamp tubing used for making light fixtures. I like the look of the hole as seen from the emitter end, and using this tubing allows for the use of much smaller nuts. This tubing is usually referred to as 1/8 IP and is little larger than 3/8”. Also found at the above stores in the lamp department. I filed the end of mine down just a little bit so it slides easily inside the No3, but a little filing inside the No3 also works (if needed).
Also I used a lamp hex nut, an additional washer shown already on the tubing, and a round decorative lamp nut that will be visible when the emitter is attached. The optional reflector I used was an aluminum stamping from the stem of the basket from an old coffee percolator. IIRC Serafino has posted pictures and commented that there may have been a reflector of some sort on the original prop. I like the way it looks.
Also needed, a rubber washer or O-ring that fits snuggly inside the emitter. See second picture.
Note that the rubber washer (in this case) is slightly deformed when place inside the emitter. Selections of rubber washers or O-rings can usually be found in the hardware or plumbing sections at the above listed stores.
Pass the tubing through the No3 so it sticks out past the end about 3/8”. Slide one washer over the tubing and against the No3.
Slide the emitter with rubber washer or O-ring on next. Make sure itÂ’s fairly straight and positioned correctly relative to the vane. (Refer to some of the old pictures of the original)
And then from the end, slide on the second flat washer, the optional reflector, and thread the decorative nut onto the tubing until it's flush with the end.
Without the emitter, it would look something like this.
Using the appropriate size boxed end wrench, tighten the hex lamp nut, thereby compressing the rubber washer or O-ring against the inside of the emitter.
Note- This procedure worked well with the original No.3, and although I used lamp tubing to put my Roman's saber together, I'd almost have to recommend against it. Roman's parts are drilled to 3/8" (.375) and are designed to be put together with 3/8-16 threaded rod. The tubing is .391 (mine was), so I had to drill out the replica No.3. Drilling aluminum isn't difficult, but for a novice, drilling brass can be a harrowing experience. Brass will grab a hold of a drill bit, and in my case, threw my vise across my shop :$ . I finished making the hole bigger using a rat tail file.
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