@ asavage - Yes, more pics are coming.
@ Slave1 - Yes, you might want to tape off the cut end with some electrical tape just to be safe.
@ Ruprekt - Yes, I’m using one of my Clone display busts for the build but will eventually put him on a mannequin.
@ aliensfx - Thanks!
Moving onto the calves I spoke with the maker of the suit to see if he had any ideas about connecting the front and back pieces. He suggested some type of stretch material that would be connected to the front and back pieces. I tried this out and it works great. I did have to add some plastic strips to one side. This helps keep the pieces aligned while walking.
I was also thinking of a way that they could be connected but not permanently.
I used these straps on my Snowtrooper. I’m not sure what they are called but here is the pic. Obviously this would be difficult to do while suiting up but it might work out well for a display piece.
Yes, I use the earth magnets in the clone helmets and in the IM helmet build.
C6 and I also used them in the spoon section on the calves in the original clone suit build. We found the strain from walking was just too much for magnets. They just kept sliding apart when we would walk.
I went ahead and cut the neckseal along the base in the back. I then added some velcro and nylon strapping.
I originally used hot glue but it did not hold. I then used super glue and it holds well. Just make sure your placement is correct. The super glue will tear the foam on the inside of the piece if removed.
One nice thing about the padded neckseal is it makes the armor much more comfortable to wear on your shoulders.
I was having some difficulties getting the biceps up as high as I would like. The armpit area was rubbing up against the chest/back pieces. I trimmed the inside down a bit and it made a world of difference. It’s much more comfortable to wear now.
I added some large screws to the inside of the thighs. One in the front one on the side. I glued them into place with a two part epoxy. I purchased two packs of 2” elastic. They also sell this on a roll at most fabric stores. Then I just cut a small hole about a inch up from the ends of the elastic. Attach the elastic to the back first then pull it from the back to the front. The back of the right thigh should attach to the front of the left thigh and the crossing of the elastic should be in the back. You may need to cut the elastic down a bit so it holds the thigh up as high as possible.
I added some small screws to back flaps. I didn't want to permanently glue the down so that maybe later I will and some kind of mechanism that would make the move up and down.
Nice work Darren, you're coming up with some great solutions on these parts. I've gone with a similar set up on my thighs. Just working out what I'll be using to attach them to an underbelt. Snap clips or peppers or maybe a combination .
Great work and thanks for sharing your process.
Really enjoying this thread.
Once again, sorry to jump around so much on the build.
Here is the helmet. It came trimmed and assemble by the maker. The only part I was concerned about was the small back piece. I added some Magic Sculpt to the main body in 3 places. A large section on the back and two small places on the sides. I like to let it harden overnight before working with it again. Once dried I sanded and cleaned it up so the lower piece would fit in properly. Then I added some Vaseline to the dried sections and worked the Magic Sculpt onto the lower section. The Vaseline is only applied to keep the soft sculpt from sticking to the dried sculpt and should be cleaned off once finished. Once that dried I then added some earth magnets to it. Now it locks into place nicely. Magic Sculpt can be purchased at Tap Plastics here in CA and can also be found on the web.Magic-Sculpt Compound : TAP Plastics
I picked out the paint this past weekend. It's really tough to figure out what Red to use. Some photo's it looks Dark Red and in other's it more of a Maroon. I went with Krylon Gloss Cherry Red and Rust-oleum Metallic Pure Gold. The Krylon Red can be purchased most place's (Wal-Mart was the cheapest) and I found the Rust-oleum Gold at Home Depot. I also used the cheap Wal-Mark Flat Black for the cheek area.
I got most of the parts painted over the past few days.
Now we all know once the suit is finished is going to get scratches here and there.
This doesn't mean we can try and prevent them, right? Well one area that is sure to get scratched is the red forearm area when it slips onto the gold elbow section. I added some foam to the inside of the red forearm section. I'm not sure where this foam came from, I think it was for a bike helmet. This idea helps a bit but it's not perfect.
Man! That is a heck of a suit! And you have done some really nice work!
Just curious as I have no intention of trying to buy a suit like that. But why is it taboo to ask where you got it? Does the maker not want it known, or...?
I think it's quite simple, people selling kits or making money out of the Ironman franchise wanna make sure they won't get a nice C&D from those who have the rights to the franchise!