-
Welcome to the Project Runs Forum!
This forum is intended for interest gauging and active runs. Due to the transient nature of this forum, please keep all research and ongoing discussion in one of our main forums so your information is not lost.
Only Premium Members can start a new run.
Limited Run DL44 TFA Blaster Kit
- Thread starter dmachinist
- Start date
-
- Tags
- star wars
I contacted Denix via E-Mail about this alleged new product of theirs, and this is what they had to say:
"Thank you very much for your interest in our products.
I assume that the model you saw is a prototype from somebody fan of Star Wars. But is not from us.
It is true that many of our products have been converted into this kind of weapons and for that reason we are studying to develop this “galactic” gun in the next future."
Charlieaggs
New Member
count me in
Charlieaggs
New Member
very interested
I think you missed it bud. Presales were on the DEC website. Last I checked, both the TFA and ANH kits were sold out....
I just put a few more kits up, order as soon as you can!
I am getting the materials on order this weekend!!!
I am getting the materials on order this weekend!!!
My order is in. 
Very nice Carson, thanks!
After talking to Pat today I feel that the scope and mount are the same size as the ANH version but the scope ends are not brass.
There are some worn areas and they look shiny so they will be aluminum.
The scope knob does not have the screws showing on top, so it will attach with a screw and have a cap to glue/press fit on top.
The crossbar studs look like they are 8-32 or 4mm, I will probably make it 4mm because all the other screws are metric.
I am making the mount master for the mold and materials will be ordered this weekend.
( ** steam pours out of chimney stack, gears start to turn ** )
After talking to Pat today I feel that the scope and mount are the same size as the ANH version but the scope ends are not brass.
There are some worn areas and they look shiny so they will be aluminum.
The scope knob does not have the screws showing on top, so it will attach with a screw and have a cap to glue/press fit on top.
The crossbar studs look like they are 8-32 or 4mm, I will probably make it 4mm because all the other screws are metric.
I am making the mount master for the mold and materials will be ordered this weekend.
( ** steam pours out of chimney stack, gears start to turn ** )
kpax
Sr Member
All the details are there that can be seen on the screen used images. The scope groove it there too.
Dave will also be making the left side cover plate to simulate the C96 left side and Disney versions.
The selector switch can be removed and the outside surface ground down to flush with the frame leaving the screw post in tact which can be glued in place.
The barrel set screws top and bottom can be used to center and tightening the FH/Bull barrel assembly to the Mauser barrel.
I think the best/strongest way to attach the mount to the body will be to drill the frame using the crossbar as the guide, and then tap if possible for the threaded rod.
The rods will be threaded to the spacer disks and the disks and rods can be screwed in to the body and epoxied in place.
If not intending to fire airsoft BBs, I would sacrifice a working Mag. and use a nut inside the mag well to tighten it all up.
This way the hammer/trigger still work but wont fire BBs. Otherwise the barrel will need to be cut off very cleanly and deburred .
Just some ideas...
Dave will also be making the left side cover plate to simulate the C96 left side and Disney versions.
The selector switch can be removed and the outside surface ground down to flush with the frame leaving the screw post in tact which can be glued in place.
The barrel set screws top and bottom can be used to center and tightening the FH/Bull barrel assembly to the Mauser barrel.
I think the best/strongest way to attach the mount to the body will be to drill the frame using the crossbar as the guide, and then tap if possible for the threaded rod.
The rods will be threaded to the spacer disks and the disks and rods can be screwed in to the body and epoxied in place.
If not intending to fire airsoft BBs, I would sacrifice a working Mag. and use a nut inside the mag well to tighten it all up.
This way the hammer/trigger still work but wont fire BBs. Otherwise the barrel will need to be cut off very cleanly and deburred .
Just some ideas...
lewistully
Active Member
Whew! I am trying to read this and visualize what you mean with all these handy tips. I will probably wait for someone else to build this before I take a crack at it. I don't mind sacrificing the "BB Fireability" but I do want my hammer and trigger to still work. Nothing quite like cocking that trigger back and as your avatar shows saying "I'll be you have."
It seems like this build will be a bit more complicated than your standard ANH Denix. Is that kind of the general consensus?
kpax
Sr Member
I wont be that hard. There will be some video tutorials from Dave and images showing the easiest way to build.
The way you build it will depend on how you intend to use it. If you will be rough on it...in and out quick drawing from your holster over and over... you may opt for the extra nut inside the mag well.
The way you build it will depend on how you intend to use it. If you will be rough on it...in and out quick drawing from your holster over and over... you may opt for the extra nut inside the mag well.
Whew! I am trying to read this and visualize what you mean with all these handy tips. I will probably wait for someone else to build this before I take a crack at it. I don't mind sacrificing the "BB Fireability" but I do want my hammer and trigger to still work. Nothing quite like cocking that trigger back and as your avatar shows saying "I'll be you have."
Similar threads
