Limited Run DL44 ANH Version Blaster Kit

Aluminum black is very iffy.


You don't want a really slick polished surface. Scotch bright it. Clean with degreaser and rinse with water. (Just before you are about to use blackened). Dry with hair drier hot.


if you have a heat gun or hair dryer, warm the metal to the point where it is hot but not too hot to handle. Use a shallow pan just big enough for the part to catch the run off ( to reuse) apply aluminum black liberally. Use rag of mop brush. Wearing gloves, use small piece of fine scotch bright to scrub the aluminum black into the warm metal. Rub a dub dub. It may bubble and hiss as the chemical eats in a bit :)don,t breath it in- use adaquite ventilation) . Most will be removed and look messy. Let sit for a few minutes. Apply more aluminum black chemical. Scrub in again. Then apply more very wet. (Using the run off in the pan) and let sit until it turn black. Rinse. Warm and dry metal again with hair dryer hot. Reapply al black rubbing in lightly and wet well .. Let sit and rinse.


Dry with hair dryer hot.


If you do not force dry hot with hair dryer a reddish corrosion will form. Not rust.


The reason to scrub in wet is to remove the ox layer that forms on aluminum instantly. You have to get the chemical under the oxidation layer before it forms so you scrub the surface to rub in the chemical. After it has the first coat that looks like nothing. The second and maybe third coat blackens.


Should be top coated with clear lacquer or wax.


Still iffy results and no more durable than bluing on steel which scratches off.


I use it as a base coat for black spray paint. ; ). Much easier and better results. Still need clean degreaser metal and scuffed just before painting. Clear lacquer or poly make a hard handleable surface.


good luck!


Look up YouTube videos for 2k aluminum blacker. (Same as aluminum black)
will show process.
 
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Just so everybody can get ready I am running a few more DL44 kits in February,
The presale will start the first week in January so order as soon as you can to reserve a kit
 
Just so everybody can get ready I am running a few more DL44 kits in February,
The presale will start the first week in January so order as soon as you can to reserve a kit



Excellent News.

Denix seems to have slight variations of Mauser Models.

Anyone have any suggestions on which one to get? 1896, 1898, etc.
 
I saw it posted at Bud K as a 1898 but it is still called a C96.

I checked Denix's shop on their website and they still just have the two models, one with wood grips and one with plastic grips.
 
Have you ever thought of doing a scope upgrade kit for these cast kits with the scope and knob you ran for the all metal machined kits?
 
Would you consider doing a simplified all steel kit? I'm sure there's enough interest for a run.

I think the only parts I would consider upgrading to steel are the scope, flash hider, & barrel,
but that would add about $200 more to the kit price, and the scope would still be simplified (cast knob, glue in lens),
I am also on a tight schedule for the next couple of months, a lot of projects on the table,
 
I think the only parts I would consider upgrading to steel are the scope, flash hider, & barrel,
but that would add about $200 more to the kit price, and the scope would still be simplified (cast knob, glue in lens),
I am also on a tight schedule for the next couple of months, a lot of projects on the table,

I would be in for that! Would you offer those outside of this run? I was in the last simplified run and not this one.
 
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