Ares X
Sr Member
I find that hard to believe. With that hair you must require an XXXL helmet.
Denuo Novo (only) New and existing products
- Thread starter drftfan
- Start date
I find that hard to believe. With that hair you must require an XXXL helmet.
LukeBespin1975
New Member
I'm eyeballing DN's "Tie Victor 2" lid (STAR WARS™ TIE Victor 2™ Helmet).
Could anyone offer insight as to the pros/cons compared to RS Propmasters and/or Cybercraft?
I own lids from Cybercraft and RSP (obviously those two shops are a bit apples/oranges in terms of what they aim to achieve with their products), but none from DN.
Could anyone offer insight as to the pros/cons compared to RS Propmasters and/or Cybercraft?
I own lids from Cybercraft and RSP (obviously those two shops are a bit apples/oranges in terms of what they aim to achieve with their products), but none from DN.
Synz314
Sr Member
The Denuo Novo TIE helmets are less accurate than RS. They sharpened up the edges, most noticeably around the eyes and cheeks, so the sculpt is cleaner and less accurate. They also, for some reason, added a couple of small bumps on the ears that shouldn't be there at all.
Cybercraft TIE sculpts are super inaccurate and they're not vacuum-formed ABS.
LukeBespin1975
New Member
Appreciate the breakdown!
ggriffaw
Sr Member
I don't have an Anovos AT-AT helmet, but I assume it is abs similar to the Anovos OT TIE Pilot which I do have. The DN X-Wing helmets are similar plastic to that.
Ares X
Sr Member
To provide some more analysis of the FOTK, now that I've unboxed it... I remember Anovos talking about having to start from scratch because the pulls were too soft and changing to an inverted vac-forming process -- where they were having dies milled for the plastic to be sucked into, so the exterior details were as sharp as they needed to be. The first batch of parts they showed looked to have been made via that process. I am not sure what assets Denuo Novo got, but most of these pieces were definitely pulled the familiar way -- over a convex buck, with the surface details impressing into the back-side. A couple look like they might be from inversion-forming, but only a couple. Many even have mild webbing on the wastage. Definitely not something that happens with concave dies. I wonder if they got the original rejected forms...
That said, everything looks at least good-ish.
It consists, as the insert says, of 39 thermoformed ABS pieces with a protective film over them (the bicep inners and the shoulder bell inserts are unseparated on a single piece of plastic each, so semantics), 31 cast resin pieces (the insert, web-site, and instructions say 21), cloth gaskets for the shoulders, elbows, and knees, cloth belt pouches, the underbelt, a bunch of screws and velcro and buckles, and a decal sheet. The decal sheet is mostly pointless for me. I might use a couple for the detonator, but the rest of the details I'm going to paint.
I do not have an experienced enough eye for the gaskets to speak to their accuracy or quality. I'm going to send them off to Geeky Pink for her assessment, and replacement, if appropriate. If anyone has recommendations for better pouches, let me know.
The upper body looks good. I'm going to have to do some careful work joining the chest to the back at the shoulders to be seamless. I'm not entirely thrilled with the softness of the "pill" cutouts in the chest or the seams between the center and side chestplate pieces. I'll see what I can do to sharpen those up. I would have preferred the ab boxes and belt detail pieces were plastic. The resin feels more like foamed ceramic -- it's light and clinky -- but the cumulative weight of all of that around one's middle might be awkward. The groin plate is the trimmed-up version. I already have the wider TFA version from KC, and will post comparison pics later.
The "corset" (i.e., front and back abdominal pieces) need to be joined seamlessly at the sides, and the center back seam opened up. The instructions do not call for the latter, which is film accurate, and there's a lot of velcro where I am more likely going to be using rare-earth magnets.
All the "fastening clips" are nice and clean and sharp. The detonator is well-cast, too... but seems to be a single solid piece. The instructions show the left endcap needing to be attached. I need to pull it back out and look, but when I was handling it earlier, I didn't notice anything removeable. That's definitely a lot of weight pulling down on the center-back panel -- which the instructions have us hanging over the top of the corset and velcroing to that piece. If the endcap isn't removable, I am likely going to take a paddle bit and core the bugger out.
All the leg pieces seem nice and crisp. The calf boxes for the left leg are cast-resin, like the ab-boxes. All of those are cast with part numbers, orientation marks, hollow spaces, and screw holes, to be mounted from the inside of the armor piece. The holster bracket is a frustration. As with the detonator, I'll be pulling it back out to take a closer look. The instructions show the base and the stacked bracket as separate. The piece I unrolled from the foam packer seemed to be a single cast-resin piece. I have the aftermarket machined aluminum bracket and screws and shim. I just need the base piece that mounts to the thigh. So I may have to do some cutting there, too.
Time to go back and review my reference for what needs to be seamless and what not. I wasn't thrilled with the film suits' sloppiness in that regard. There were a lot of places where I thought seamless would have looked better and was very do-able, and I don't know why they didn't. Especially after going to the trouble of making the armor out of the flexible material they did, making the chest and back as one piece to slip on over the head, etc.
At any rate, I've started rough-trimming the parts to begin getting an approximate idea of fit, before fine-tuning. The instructions are only quasi-useful, mostly for identifying what goes where and where I should trim. The ab boxes are not meant to be seamless with the ab plate, so I may just get those primed and painted right out of the gate, to have something done and ready to mount.
That said, everything looks at least good-ish.
It consists, as the insert says, of 39 thermoformed ABS pieces with a protective film over them (the bicep inners and the shoulder bell inserts are unseparated on a single piece of plastic each, so semantics), 31 cast resin pieces (the insert, web-site, and instructions say 21), cloth gaskets for the shoulders, elbows, and knees, cloth belt pouches, the underbelt, a bunch of screws and velcro and buckles, and a decal sheet. The decal sheet is mostly pointless for me. I might use a couple for the detonator, but the rest of the details I'm going to paint.
I do not have an experienced enough eye for the gaskets to speak to their accuracy or quality. I'm going to send them off to Geeky Pink for her assessment, and replacement, if appropriate. If anyone has recommendations for better pouches, let me know.
The upper body looks good. I'm going to have to do some careful work joining the chest to the back at the shoulders to be seamless. I'm not entirely thrilled with the softness of the "pill" cutouts in the chest or the seams between the center and side chestplate pieces. I'll see what I can do to sharpen those up. I would have preferred the ab boxes and belt detail pieces were plastic. The resin feels more like foamed ceramic -- it's light and clinky -- but the cumulative weight of all of that around one's middle might be awkward. The groin plate is the trimmed-up version. I already have the wider TFA version from KC, and will post comparison pics later.
The "corset" (i.e., front and back abdominal pieces) need to be joined seamlessly at the sides, and the center back seam opened up. The instructions do not call for the latter, which is film accurate, and there's a lot of velcro where I am more likely going to be using rare-earth magnets.
All the "fastening clips" are nice and clean and sharp. The detonator is well-cast, too... but seems to be a single solid piece. The instructions show the left endcap needing to be attached. I need to pull it back out and look, but when I was handling it earlier, I didn't notice anything removeable. That's definitely a lot of weight pulling down on the center-back panel -- which the instructions have us hanging over the top of the corset and velcroing to that piece. If the endcap isn't removable, I am likely going to take a paddle bit and core the bugger out.
All the leg pieces seem nice and crisp. The calf boxes for the left leg are cast-resin, like the ab-boxes. All of those are cast with part numbers, orientation marks, hollow spaces, and screw holes, to be mounted from the inside of the armor piece. The holster bracket is a frustration. As with the detonator, I'll be pulling it back out to take a closer look. The instructions show the base and the stacked bracket as separate. The piece I unrolled from the foam packer seemed to be a single cast-resin piece. I have the aftermarket machined aluminum bracket and screws and shim. I just need the base piece that mounts to the thigh. So I may have to do some cutting there, too.
Time to go back and review my reference for what needs to be seamless and what not. I wasn't thrilled with the film suits' sloppiness in that regard. There were a lot of places where I thought seamless would have looked better and was very do-able, and I don't know why they didn't. Especially after going to the trouble of making the armor out of the flexible material they did, making the chest and back as one piece to slip on over the head, etc.
At any rate, I've started rough-trimming the parts to begin getting an approximate idea of fit, before fine-tuning. The instructions are only quasi-useful, mostly for identifying what goes where and where I should trim. The ab boxes are not meant to be seamless with the ab plate, so I may just get those primed and painted right out of the gate, to have something done and ready to mount.
Last edited:
Synz314
Sr Member
Thanks for the great photos as always.
Seems like the most significant difference between this and Master Replicas is the added detail on the cup on the back. The base of the mic tips are also painted white here instead of black. I would love to see a size comparison.
The lack of a neck ring still bothers me. Many custom helmet makers have figured out how to keep the neck ring and make the helmet perfectly wearable. It's a shame licensed makers like MR and DN just can't get it right.
ggriffaw
Sr Member
I don't like the look of the neck ring on the cgi helmet. Removing it makes the helmet look more like the OT stormtrooper helmet.
I understand the cgi helmets had the neck ring. I wonder if it was on the model to make rendering faster. Less complex model and surfaces to bounce light around.
It would be interesting to see how the dimensions compare on clone helmets made by different makers including ones that have the neck ring. I don't have any others to measure or take photos of.
Clone helmet looks good, I don't like how much of the muzzle was removed on the underside but, it is what it is. It will be interesting to see if Hasbro made their clone helmet off the kenobi show version, or if they manage to pull off the original helmet.
JetSetWilly
Well-Known Member
I didn’t think Clones were glossy?
Ares X
Sr Member
The Master Replicas versions were glossy too, but not quite this glossy looking.
marker2037
Active Member
Looks pretty good. I probably won't get it, at least not yet, but it looks nice enough. I'm not an expert though.
The Phase Is were pretty matte. Phase II was more satin. I don't know how much was improvement in CG between films and how much was deliberate aesthetic choice. I think with the replicas it's something like with the asymmetrical OT Stormtrooper replicas -- satin or matte might be film-accurate, but the general public expects shiny so the accurate version would look "wrong" to them.
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