DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit Builds
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Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...
Same question here
+ does someone have a tutorial how to deassamble / assemble a Denix?
+ any tips on how to weather the crossbar? Simply paint (no blueing) and scratch off the paint where necessary?
Any help (again) will be appreciated Thanks in advance :thumbsup
Same question here
+ does someone have a tutorial how to deassamble / assemble a Denix?
+ any tips on how to weather the crossbar? Simply paint (no blueing) and scratch off the paint where necessary?
Any help (again) will be appreciated
Thanks in advance :thumbsup
goldenry007
New Member
Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...
2 part question:
What's the best "glue" to use? I think I remember someone post 5-minute epoxy.
and, is that what I should use to attach the glass/brass rings to the scope?
2 part question:
What's the best "glue" to use? I think I remember someone post 5-minute epoxy.
and, is that what I should use to attach the glass/brass rings to the scope?
Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...
The stickers that were sent out with the original kits were 23.8mm
The stickers that were sent out with the original kits were 23.8mm
goldenry007
New Member
Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...
I also want to let you guys know to be careful when you're filing down the Denix barrel to make room for the Bull Barrel. I may have filled a little too much and what I've noticed is that when I put the bull barrel on it looks perfect until I attached it with the screw. What happens is when the screw tightens the bull barrel is forced downward towards the front and pushed up towards the back which shows a slight gap.
I'm not too worried because I'm just going to add something inside the bull barrel to make sure there is no movement. In fact the minor "mess ups" going on during this project and having to figure out a fix makes this build so much more important to me. As Norm said in the video with Adam Savage, "it's the minor imperfections that makes the blaster so awesome".
I also want to let you guys know to be careful when you're filing down the Denix barrel to make room for the Bull Barrel. I may have filled a little too much and what I've noticed is that when I put the bull barrel on it looks perfect until I attached it with the screw. What happens is when the screw tightens the bull barrel is forced downward towards the front and pushed up towards the back which shows a slight gap.
I'm not too worried because I'm just going to add something inside the bull barrel to make sure there is no movement. In fact the minor "mess ups" going on during this project and having to figure out a fix makes this build so much more important to me. As Norm said in the video with Adam Savage, "it's the minor imperfections that makes the blaster so awesome".
goldenry007
New Member
Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...
Anyway you could post a picture of the outcome of this? That would be great!
Anyway you could post a picture of the outcome of this? That would be great!
Master Valon
Well-Known Member
Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...
Disassembly is real easy; I just tried it out for the first time a couple days ago. 1.) unscrew the flathead screw where the barrel meets the body of the gun (on the underside). Then, below the sight, on the rail that separates the upper and lower receiver, there are 2 pins (one on each side) that need to be knocked out. I just used a small screwdriver and a large, heavy screwdriver to knock them out (hammer/punch would be best, obviously, but I don't have a punch). You just need to hit one, and the one on the other side will knock out, and you just pull it out, then knock the other out. Then once the pins and screw are out you just slide the upper receiver off. Then you just unscrew the grip screws and take the grips off, then that's the extent to which it will disassemble.
As far as weathering the crossbar, yes, I believe paint would be the best way to go, although you can blue it and water that down. But in one of Scott's threads he said it is much harder that way, and it doesn't look as accurate.
Same question here
+ does someone have a tutorial how to deassamble / assemble a Denix?
+ any tips on how to weather the crossbar? Simply paint (no blueing) and scratch off the paint where necessary?
Any help (again) will be appreciated
Disassembly is real easy; I just tried it out for the first time a couple days ago. 1.) unscrew the flathead screw where the barrel meets the body of the gun (on the underside). Then, below the sight, on the rail that separates the upper and lower receiver, there are 2 pins (one on each side) that need to be knocked out. I just used a small screwdriver and a large, heavy screwdriver to knock them out (hammer/punch would be best, obviously, but I don't have a punch). You just need to hit one, and the one on the other side will knock out, and you just pull it out, then knock the other out. Then once the pins and screw are out you just slide the upper receiver off. Then you just unscrew the grip screws and take the grips off, then that's the extent to which it will disassemble.
As far as weathering the crossbar, yes, I believe paint would be the best way to go, although you can blue it and water that down. But in one of Scott's threads he said it is much harder that way, and it doesn't look as accurate.
Master Valon
Well-Known Member
Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...
Yes, 5 minute epoxy would be best. The brand I use is JB-Weld "Kwik Weld". It sets in 5 minutes, cures in 6 hours (IIRC). It has a weaker PSI rating than full strength JB-Weld, but it's still something like 1800 PSI or something, compared to 2400 PSI on regular JB Weld. But the regular formula takes 6 hours to set, 24 to cure. It's just not worth it to get full strength, IMO. And I assume that's what to use to secure the brass rings in the scope, as there is no hole to use a set screw. But I am actually wondering the best way to keep the lenses in as well, because there is not lip inside to keep the lens in via pressure, so I am assuming we need to glue the lens into the ring, then the ring into the scope, but I am unsure of the specifics. I was actually meaning got ask Dave that, too.
Yes, 5 minute epoxy would be best. The brand I use is JB-Weld "Kwik Weld". It sets in 5 minutes, cures in 6 hours (IIRC). It has a weaker PSI rating than full strength JB-Weld, but it's still something like 1800 PSI or something, compared to 2400 PSI on regular JB Weld. But the regular formula takes 6 hours to set, 24 to cure. It's just not worth it to get full strength, IMO. And I assume that's what to use to secure the brass rings in the scope, as there is no hole to use a set screw. But I am actually wondering the best way to keep the lenses in as well, because there is not lip inside to keep the lens in via pressure, so I am assuming we need to glue the lens into the ring, then the ring into the scope, but I am unsure of the specifics. I was actually meaning got ask Dave that, too.
goldenry007
New Member
Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...
What kind of paint should I use? I got this Pewter Black and Birchwood Casey Super Blue Liquid Gun Blue is in the mail. Not really sure what parts to sue these on. I have Brass Rub n Buff for the Scope Dial. Lastly I have a Satin Black paint for the inside of the Scope and I'm researching what sealant I want to use.
Here's my very tentative plan:
Denix Upper Receiver - Pewter Black or Gun Blue (thoughts?)
Denix Lower Receiver - Pewter Black or Gun Blue (thoughts?)
Flash Hider - Birchwood Casey Super Blue Liquid Gun Blue
Bull Barrel - Not sure yet because it's Alum but I'm thinking Gun Blue
Scope Mount Tops (2) - Pewter Black
Scope Mount Bottom (1) - Pewter Black
Crossbar - Paint (I need a recommendation on this)
Scope - Either Pewter Black or same paint as Crossbar (most images I see have a shinny finish to the Scope)
Scope Dial (Is this what it's called?) - Rub n Buff Brass fist then cover with Black paint. Then I guess rub some of the paint off.
Grill - Pewter Black
Me When Done - 6 pack of Bear Republic's Racer 5 IPA :lol
What kind of paint should I use? I got this Pewter Black and Birchwood Casey Super Blue Liquid Gun Blue is in the mail. Not really sure what parts to sue these on. I have Brass Rub n Buff for the Scope Dial. Lastly I have a Satin Black paint for the inside of the Scope and I'm researching what sealant I want to use.
Here's my very tentative plan:
Denix Upper Receiver - Pewter Black or Gun Blue (thoughts?)
Denix Lower Receiver - Pewter Black or Gun Blue (thoughts?)
Flash Hider - Birchwood Casey Super Blue Liquid Gun Blue
Bull Barrel - Not sure yet because it's Alum but I'm thinking Gun Blue
Scope Mount Tops (2) - Pewter Black
Scope Mount Bottom (1) - Pewter Black
Crossbar - Paint (I need a recommendation on this)
Scope - Either Pewter Black or same paint as Crossbar (most images I see have a shinny finish to the Scope)
Scope Dial (Is this what it's called?) - Rub n Buff Brass fist then cover with Black paint. Then I guess rub some of the paint off.
Grill - Pewter Black
Me When Done - 6 pack of Bear Republic's Racer 5 IPA :lol
Master Valon
Well-Known Member
Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...
Apparently, the pewter black and perma blue/super blue compounds both work well on the pewter parts. I was planning on using Super Blue on all the pewter parts, based on Scott's findings. But, for the bull barrel and Denix, Scott recommended using Aluminum Black. It's the same concept, but for use on amuminum (obviously). He said the Denix takes better to Aluminum Black rather than Perma Blue (which is for steel). Plus the bull barrel is machined aluminum, so it would take very well to the bull barrel.
So I would recommend pewter black/perma blue (whatever ends up looking best to you; apparently both work well- perma blue apparently working every well for the steel look for the FH). Maybe Perma Blue for the FH, and test the pewter black on a small part of a pewter part, and see how it looks. But definitely aluminum black for the Denix/bull barrel.
As for paint, that satin black seems like it would be good. That's what Pat recommended in a post in the ANH Greeblies 100+ page thread; a "satin black enamel". For the crossbar I think paint would be the easiest to obtain an accurate look, from what I have gleaned. It is possible to weather it to look as it does using bluing compound, but is much harder and doesn't look quite as accurate, seeing as the actual prop's crossbar was painted.
I would personally use bluing for the scope, but again, that's down to personal taste. Scott's technique for getting his scopes (and all other components) looking as great as he does is applying bluing compound, buffing with 0000 steel wool, reapplying, rebuffing, etc., until the desired look is achieved. Disclaimer, though, all my info is coming from all the build threads I've scoured over for the past year or so; this will be my first time using bluing compounds, as well. In the past I've just used matte black paint (and I've only built an ESB and Greedo Killer, never an ANH Hero). So I will be experimenting along with the rest of you!
I ordered Super Blue, Aluminum Black, and 0000 steel wool, and it will be coming in Thursday. So I will report back once I've experimented with my own kit. But this is all the info I've gleaned thus far, and what I'll be basing my initial techniques on.
Oh, and yes, the Rub N Buff seems like a good way to go for the scope dial.
Apparently, the pewter black and perma blue/super blue compounds both work well on the pewter parts. I was planning on using Super Blue on all the pewter parts, based on Scott's findings. But, for the bull barrel and Denix, Scott recommended using Aluminum Black. It's the same concept, but for use on amuminum (obviously). He said the Denix takes better to Aluminum Black rather than Perma Blue (which is for steel). Plus the bull barrel is machined aluminum, so it would take very well to the bull barrel.
So I would recommend pewter black/perma blue (whatever ends up looking best to you; apparently both work well- perma blue apparently working every well for the steel look for the FH). Maybe Perma Blue for the FH, and test the pewter black on a small part of a pewter part, and see how it looks. But definitely aluminum black for the Denix/bull barrel.
As for paint, that satin black seems like it would be good. That's what Pat recommended in a post in the ANH Greeblies 100+ page thread; a "satin black enamel". For the crossbar I think paint would be the easiest to obtain an accurate look, from what I have gleaned. It is possible to weather it to look as it does using bluing compound, but is much harder and doesn't look quite as accurate, seeing as the actual prop's crossbar was painted.
I would personally use bluing for the scope, but again, that's down to personal taste. Scott's technique for getting his scopes (and all other components) looking as great as he does is applying bluing compound, buffing with 0000 steel wool, reapplying, rebuffing, etc., until the desired look is achieved. Disclaimer, though, all my info is coming from all the build threads I've scoured over for the past year or so; this will be my first time using bluing compounds, as well. In the past I've just used matte black paint (and I've only built an ESB and Greedo Killer, never an ANH Hero). So I will be experimenting along with the rest of you!
I ordered Super Blue, Aluminum Black, and 0000 steel wool, and it will be coming in Thursday. So I will report back once I've experimented with my own kit. But this is all the info I've gleaned thus far, and what I'll be basing my initial techniques on.
Oh, and yes, the Rub N Buff seems like a good way to go for the scope dial.
Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...
Yo yo yo
here's what I'm planning:
aluminum parts and denix bodies: Birchwood Casey ALUMINUM BLACK
Kit cast pieces: BC SUPER BLUE
brass parts: BC BRASS BLACK
paint: satin enamel
Dont forget, BEFORE you brass black the brass parts, you paint them satin enamel, weather the paint to taste, then brass black on the exposed brass to give it the 100 year old look.
Il'l get pics of the one part I've done tomorrow for you guys.
Yo yo yo
here's what I'm planning:
aluminum parts and denix bodies: Birchwood Casey ALUMINUM BLACK
Kit cast pieces: BC SUPER BLUE
brass parts: BC BRASS BLACK
paint: satin enamel
Dont forget, BEFORE you brass black the brass parts, you paint them satin enamel, weather the paint to taste, then brass black on the exposed brass to give it the 100 year old look.
Il'l get pics of the one part I've done tomorrow for you guys.
Master Valon
Well-Known Member
Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...
Awesome! Glad to know I'm on the right track. Sounds like I have most (if not all) of the stuff I need coming, then. I might try the Super Blue on the crossbar, seeing as I might want to go for a AFB version (I'll wait and see). But if I want it weathered I can just sand off and try to get it to look like Han's. IIRC, you built an ANH DL with bluing/weathering the crossbar, correct, Scott? I think you had said you preferred the paint, but I feel like I might like the bluing.
Awesome! Glad to know I'm on the right track. Sounds like I have most (if not all) of the stuff I need coming, then. I might try the Super Blue on the crossbar, seeing as I might want to go for a AFB version (I'll wait and see). But if I want it weathered I can just sand off and try to get it to look like Han's. IIRC, you built an ANH DL with bluing/weathering the crossbar, correct, Scott? I think you had said you preferred the paint, but I feel like I might like the bluing.
RbbyRbt
Active Member
Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...
I found that when drilling the rear hole of the crossbar I had to take out the trigger assembly in order to drill right through the thickness of the body and then tap the screw thread. There's only one pin that needs to get popped out and the trigger will come out so it's really easy, I did the same for the hammer. This allows you to get right in there and paint all the pieces separately.
Anyone know how to remove the spring loaded ejection rail on the upper barrel? You can pull it back and the small stud on the right side moves out but I can't get it apart.
I found that when drilling the rear hole of the crossbar I had to take out the trigger assembly in order to drill right through the thickness of the body and then tap the screw thread. There's only one pin that needs to get popped out and the trigger will come out so it's really easy, I did the same for the hammer. This allows you to get right in there and paint all the pieces separately.
Anyone know how to remove the spring loaded ejection rail on the upper barrel? You can pull it back and the small stud on the right side moves out but I can't get it apart.
Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...
I did the first one with an anodized cross bar, and that sucked because the anodizing was so strong and tough... scratching it up was MAJOR work.
Never blued one... in fact, I wouldn't even try for me. Since I'd be going for what we know of as accurate, the paint is the best... most accurate, and easiest to weather.
I did the first one with an anodized cross bar, and that sucked because the anodizing was so strong and tough... scratching it up was MAJOR work.
Never blued one... in fact, I wouldn't even try for me. Since I'd be going for what we know of as accurate, the paint is the best... most accurate, and easiest to weather.
goldenry007
New Member
Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...
Sweet I'll buy some Satin Black Enamel and Alum Black tonight. I tried out a little of the Pewter Black on the edge of a part and it seems like you need a lot of it to get a dark effect. Thanks for the thoughts!
Sweet I'll buy some Satin Black Enamel and Alum Black tonight. I tried out a little of the Pewter Black on the edge of a part and it seems like you need a lot of it to get a dark effect. Thanks for the thoughts!
goldenry007
New Member
Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...
I really like the look of this build. Not sure how accurate it is but I like the finish on the Denix/MCG/Real Mauser/whatever he used.
Any idea how to get that finish? It almost has a burned rainbow-ish look to it.
I really like the look of this build. Not sure how accurate it is but I like the finish on the Denix/MCG/Real Mauser/whatever he used.
Any idea how to get that finish? It almost has a burned rainbow-ish look to it.
Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...
It took me an hour but I found it. I knew I saw it somewhere:
"You mean you don't know how to remove the slide on a denix? I've done it plenty of times, it's really easy. First, you pull back the slide and then use a pair or needle nosed pliers to pull out the "firing pin" from the open side, back toward the direction of the hammer, once that is out, you pull off the bolt stop piece on the upper reciever, that rectangular shaped part underneath the sight on the right side of the gun. Once that piece is out, you should be able to revove the slide with no hitches, although to reassemble it, you need to push down the spring before you reinstall the bolt stop piece before you push the firing pin back in."
It took me an hour but I found it. I knew I saw it somewhere:
"You mean you don't know how to remove the slide on a denix? I've done it plenty of times, it's really easy. First, you pull back the slide and then use a pair or needle nosed pliers to pull out the "firing pin" from the open side, back toward the direction of the hammer, once that is out, you pull off the bolt stop piece on the upper reciever, that rectangular shaped part underneath the sight on the right side of the gun. Once that piece is out, you should be able to revove the slide with no hitches, although to reassemble it, you need to push down the spring before you reinstall the bolt stop piece before you push the firing pin back in."
Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...
scottjua, Master Valon: many thanks for your ongoing support Very kind supporting us, all the DL-44 newbies! Thats all about RPF... perfect.
I do have one (hopefully) last question:
Do I need to (wet) sand-down the entire Scope that dmachinist sent with his great kit? What would an original lool like? Does
an original do have a completely smooth surface? What you are doing all with it?
Best regards and many thanks in advance
Ralf
scottjua, Master Valon: many thanks for your ongoing support
Very kind supporting us, all the DL-44 newbies! Thats all about RPF... perfect.I do have one (hopefully) last question:
Do I need to (wet) sand-down the entire Scope that dmachinist sent with his great kit? What would an original lool like? Does
an original do have a completely smooth surface? What you are doing all with it?
Best regards and many thanks in advance
Ralf
Last edited by a moderator:
chizbot
Active Member
Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...
Thanks for the tip on using ammonia to weather the brass parts! I am going for a well-used look on mine, and even did the ferrules for the wood grips. I used linseed oil on the grips, and I'm going to bash them up a bit. I'm not sure I will try to replicate the weathering on the hero, I'm thinking more like it's just another modded DL44, well-used and abused for space piracy or whatever...
Thanks for the tip on using ammonia to weather the brass parts! I am going for a well-used look on mine, and even did the ferrules for the wood grips. I used linseed oil on the grips, and I'm going to bash them up a bit. I'm not sure I will try to replicate the weathering on the hero, I'm thinking more like it's just another modded DL44, well-used and abused for space piracy or whatever...
Country Paul
Sr Member
Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...
Enjoying all the little progress reports here
Ive made a start but not much, sanded off the denix logo & dry fitted everything
Filed down the barrel to fit the bull barrel (as said above it shifts slightly when tightened, think mine will be epoxied in place)
Like Murdocxxl I'm not sure if I need to be sanding smooth the scope & how best to do it?
As suggested I've got BC aluminium black & Super blue for the colour
Last time I blued a denix I completely sanded it first do most people do this or just go over the original finish?
Love this kit
Enjoying all the little progress reports here
Ive made a start but not much, sanded off the denix logo & dry fitted everything
Filed down the barrel to fit the bull barrel (as said above it shifts slightly when tightened, think mine will be epoxied in place)
Like Murdocxxl I'm not sure if I need to be sanding smooth the scope & how best to do it?
As suggested I've got BC aluminium black & Super blue for the colour
Last time I blued a denix I completely sanded it first do most people do this or just go over the original finish?
Love this kit
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