DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit Builds

So I tried a few different things, but what did the trick was sanding with medium coarse paper and then, just as Scottjua already demonstrated in his vid, putting the FH in a plastic bag and pouring AB over it (he did it on a steel version and used Super Blue instead). This is the result without any touch-ups. Can post a pic when it's all done.
5f92d32e95613ec7211fe2b869158301.jpg



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Since Casey Aluminum Black comes in 3 oz bottles, how much will I need to finish my DEC build?

very little actually. It's when you do ten or twenty you need the big bottles. ^_^

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So I tried a few different things, but what did the trick was sanding with medium coarse paper and then, just as Scottjua already demonstrated in his vid, putting the FH in a plastic bag and pouring AB over it (he did it on a steel version and used Super Blue instead). This is the result without any touch-ups. Can post a pic when it's all done.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/31/5f92d32e95613ec7211fe2b869158301.jpg


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now hit that puppy with some barricade or wd40 a shop rag and buff it... buff... buff buff. Reapply AL black if needed... rub rub rub. You CAN get aL to look like steel in general

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Scott ... probably not the proper thread for this, but considering that I've heard many different answers for this question, do you know if it's possible to get a sanded-raw Denix to take Super Blue? I just want to be darn sure that it won't before I hit mine with Aluminum Black and I figured you're the one to ask. Thanks!

It will, but AL black works to match the factory denix finish better. It's more consistent than super blue..
 
buff LIGHTLY or you'll take it back to silver. Apply AB, and then keep rubbing lightly. Too much elbow grease removes it.
 
Petsko, that looks great. Your picture made me want to redo my more accurately. I ordered some more AB and put in the bag tonight, it came out much better than applying with a cotton ball. I'll get to the polishing this weekend.
 
Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...

Yo yo yo

here's what I'm planning:

aluminum parts and denix bodies: Birchwood Casey ALUMINUM BLACK

Kit cast pieces: BC SUPER BLUE

brass parts: BC BRASS BLACK

paint: satin enamel

Dont forget, BEFORE you brass black the brass parts, you paint them satin enamel, weather the paint to taste, then brass black on the exposed brass to give it the 100 year old look.

Sorry bumping such an old post, but I'm about to start my first DL44 build. Needless to say, I'm pretty excited. So I have what is probably a stupid question, but I'm going to ask anyways. What type of Satin Enamel are you using. I have the other BC products ready, along with some 0000 steel wool. Also, after prepping the parts, what is the best way to apply the blueing.

Also, thanks for video on the flash hider, that is super helpful.
 
Hello,
I am new to the forum. I am work on get a kit from DEC. But I wanted to see if anyone happen to have a spare barrel sleeve.
Thank you
 
This run of DL44 parts will be starting to ship by Tuesday, any extra parts I have will be up by Tuesday/Wednesday
 
Yes, Dremel is your answer. You can also use it to accurize the Denix even more, especially sharpen up blunt edges which I think is what's making the replica look cheap or off. Sharpen it and use AB and it looks like a new (old?) Mauser!


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Are people using sanding drums on the dremel or something else?

It's good to have a variety of attachments for the Dremel. Years ago I had a buddy that was a mover and he was given a box of various attachments by someone he was moving and he gave it to me. You'll be surprised by how many different kinds and uses of attachments there are. That said, I used the sanding drums quite a bit on my DEC/Denix build.
 
I more often use sandpaper glued to a flat piece of acrylic or metal. Makes it easier to get a flatter result than with any rotary tool. Sanding drum is only for the first, roughest step.
Disposable emery boards (nail files) could also be used but they won't survive wet sanding and the grits are limited and not even on the package.
 
Sorry, somebody should have answered you... Dremel is the answer. Learn it, love it. It will forever be your friend.

Thank you. Kind of what I thought, but being new to this, I wanted to be sure.

Yes, Dremel is your answer. You can also use it to accurize the Denix even more, especially sharpen up blunt edges which I think is what's making the replica look cheap or off. Sharpen it and use AB and it looks like a new (old?) Mauser!


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What parts would you sharpen up? And AB is what?

I use a grinding stone (the pink and green ones) then finish with emory cloth.

Good to know.

Thanks everyone.
 
1) "Sharpen up" the edges, make them square and "sharp". Turning certain contours from soft and round to angular.
2) AB = Aluminium Black. It's a metal-darkening solution. You'll also need Super Blue for the Denix/Pewter bits, too.
 
1) "Sharpen up" the edges, make them square and "sharp". Turning certain contours from soft and round to angular.
2) AB = Aluminium Black. It's a metal-darkening solution. You'll also need Super Blue for the Denix/Pewter bits, too.

Already have the AB and the Super Blue, so I'm good there.

I understand what sharpening up means, just curious where specifically some of you would do this to bring a bit more accuracy to the piece?
 
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