DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit Builds

[Vanitas]

Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...

No new updates on my MGC build as of now... I have spent a LOT of time trying to reduce the gap between the scope mount and the upper scope rings, with some success. Wrapping a piece of pipe the same outer diameter as the scope with rough sandpaper and rubbing back and forth didn't much impress the scope mount, due to the large surface area. I then turned to the scope rings, which, due to their much smaller surface area that would be sanded, have gone much faster. Using the same methodology, I've been able to reduce the overall gap by about half of what it was before, which was quite large, in my opinion. I have a doctor's appointment tomorrow, but I should be able to finish sanding after I get back. I HIGHLY recommend others to try this for themselves, as the smaller gap makes that parts look MUCH cleaner. Sanding and polishing the scope mount up a bit helps a lot too, as the scope mount and rings were the only parts that were both cast and unpolished, not counting the scope dial. Again, my thanks to DEC for this run's parts!

(I just wish I had a time machine to go back to run 2, as I have the funds for it now, and had the funds back then, but bad luck when it comes to timing.) >_<

 

[Jessetattoo]

Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...

super blue showed up today, and i spent most of my day working on the blaster, did a makeshift lathe outa my drillpress with a bottom holder to keep it from killing me, wich almost happened ....
I used the blue on most of the parts and a combo of black leather dye and paint for the rest, im quite happy with my results.

 

[chizbot]

Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...

No new updates on my MGC build as of now... I have spent a LOT of time trying to reduce the gap between the scope mount and the upper scope rings, with some success. Wrapping a piece of pipe the same outer diameter as the scope with rough sandpaper and rubbing back and forth didn't much impress the scope mount, due to the large surface area. I then turned to the scope rings, which, due to their much smaller surface area that would be sanded, have gone much faster. Using the same methodology, I've been able to reduce the overall gap by about half of what it was before, which was quite large, in my opinion. I have a doctor's appointment tomorrow, but I should be able to finish sanding after I get back. I HIGHLY recommend others to try this for themselves, as the smaller gap makes that parts look MUCH cleaner. Sanding and polishing the scope mount up a bit helps a lot too, as the scope mount and rings were the only parts that were both cast and unpolished, not counting the scope dial. Again, my thanks to DEC for this run's parts!

(I just wish I had a time machine to go back to run 2, as I have the funds for it now, and had the funds back then, but bad luck when it comes to timing.) >_<

I used a Dremel tool with a drum sander on the inside of the scope rings a bit and it closed the gap to my satisfaction. I wasn't as concerned about it as you were, though.

Edit- Wanted to add something interesting I stumbled upon. On waiting for the parts, I was working on restoring an old sword that has been stuck in the ground in my garden for 8 years, so I had been sanding rust off of it on my bench. While monkeying around, I accidentally got some of the iron oxide on my unfinished blaster, and wiped most of it off, but some stuck in the crevices. I really like the look, so I will probably use this a bit in my final weathering. I have decided against bluing, as I don't have time. So I'll try to replicate with weathering skills from my old model-making days.

 

[Vanitas]

Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...

I used a Dremel tool with a drum sander on the inside of the scope rings a bit and it closed the gap to my satisfaction. I wasn't as concerned about it as you were, though.

Edit- Wanted to add something interesting I stumbled upon. On waiting for the parts, I was working on restoring an old sword that has been stuck in the ground in my garden for 8 years, so I had been sanding rust off of it on my bench. While monkeying around, I accidentally got some of the iron oxide on my unfinished blaster, and wiped most of it off, but some stuck in the crevices. I really like the look, so I will probably use this a bit in my final weathering. I have decided against bluing, as I don't have time. So I'll try to replicate with weathering skills from my old model-making days.

I'd do it that way myself, but my Dremel has been busted for a while, and I haven't gotten the opportunity to get a new one for a while. :cry That's why most of my work is doe by hand, while it may take much more time in the long run, you're less likely to make major mistakes, and oftentimes the finishing details can be more precise and clean. Nice idea about using some real rust too, I've actually mixed powdered rust with a little glue before to add in rust details in crevices on other projects too. After all, with weathering, nothing looks more like rust and dirt than ACTUAL rust and dirt! :lol

 

[t1made]

Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...

I'd definitely be interested to hear if anyone else has modified either the scope rings or the mount itself in order to close the ring gaps a bit more. This is the one item that I would love to tackle but if not done correctly could cause major issues with a great kit.

If you have tried I'd love to hear the details.

Just had a thought: I may try and turn aluminum solid stock down to the dimensions of the scope. 180 grit sandpaper and spray adhesive, attach to bar stock. Mount stock on lathe, between centers, and start to sand at 600 rpm's. Pray to God I don't slip and end up screwing up one of the pieces.

Thoughts?

 

[quarryman]

Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...

Just had a thought: I may try and turn aluminum solid stock down to the dimensions of the scope. 180 grit sandpaper and spray adhesive, attach to bar stock. Mount stock on lathe, between centers, and start to sand at 600 rpm's. Pray to God I don't slip and end up screwing up one of the pieces.

Thoughts?

That's not a bad idea, actually. But if you're going for it, what if you turned the stock down a few thou more to account for 2 sheets of 180. I think you may need CA to hold it down. With 180 grit, maybe 250 rpm is enough. Otherwise I think your idea is the best you're gonna get.

 

[PKaneProps]

Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...

Domed glass on the outside.

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks so much !!

 

[kpax]

Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...

...you can screw the rings on the mount...

You can use a wooden dowel and wrap sand paper around until close to size of the scope ( you can tape it to the dowel too) and simply hold rings and mount flat and either turn or slide. As said above. 180 should make fast work of it.
Looks like more has to be removed than really does.
Screw rings on mount.. Insert dowel and turn or slide back and fourth.
You don't want to widen the opening...just deepen so exert pressure up toward top of rings and down toward bottom of mount.

 

[Vanitas]

Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...

Unlucky me, I managed to break the larger of the domed glass lenses that fit in the scope. Does anybody know where I could buy a replacement? :facepalm

 

[Country Paul]

Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...

Got mine put together at last, just need to add the T-track & pushrods

It's not perfect but on the whole I'm pretty pleased how it's turned out,

Vanitas: I hope you get hold of a replacement lense soon, are they custom made?

 

[Vanitas]

Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...

Got mine put together at last, just need to add the T-track & pushrods

It's not perfect but on the whole I'm pretty pleased how it's turned out,

Vanitas: I hope you get hold of a replacement lense soon, are they custom made?

Nice Denix build man! After adding the antenna greeblies, are you going to add the middle dark spot on the Mystery Disc? Also, I would recommend sanding down the Denix's Sight Sphincter, to look something more like this:



And by sanding down the sight butt, here's a side view:



Sanding down that raised area helps SO much, and on a real Mauser, and the real Hero prop, the sight ramp was also white blued, so sanding that too is screen accurate, actually. Though, the sight slide, the part that slides up and down the ramp, was dark blued, like the body of the gun. I sanded both to remove casting lines, improve the pitting on the surface, and even out uneven surfaces. And don't worry about the glass dome, if everything works out, I should have a nice run 2 steel and brass replacement scope that I'm buying from someone awesome here. Besides, I think the original dome that I broke was actually intended for a watch, so I'm sure that I could find a replacement if I really wanted to.

 

[dmachinist]

Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...

Unlucky me, I managed to break the larger of the domed glass lenses that fit in the scope. Does anybody know where I could buy a replacement? :facepalm

You can get them here: http://www.gssupplies.com/mineral_glass.html
the model and size is LMG 26.1 for the large and LMG 16 for the small one

 

[Vanitas]

Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...

You can get them here: http://www.gssupplies.com/mineral_glass.html
the model and size is LMG 26.1 for the large and LMG 16 for the small one

Thanks Dave! I will likely be selling this run's scope in the near future to upgrade, but I'd like to sell a complete scope so that the seller gets everything that there is out of it. Speaking of which, I was wondering if there were any left over kits or parts from this run? Specifically, a scope mount/crossbar and a bull barrel? :angel

 

[RbbyRbt]

Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...

Here's my finished blaster...Sorry for the poor photo quality.

 

[Vanitas]

Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...

Here's my finished blaster...View attachment 348522Sorry for the poor photo quality.

Nice Denix conversion man! If you don't mind me asking, did you make the stand yourself? I've been looking for a good display stand myself for a while, and while I really like the look of Master Replicas Elite Edition mirrored stand, I've been thinking about making one myself out of spare pieces of wood.

Are you planning on weathering the flash hider too? The rest looks perfect. :thumbsup

 

[RbbyRbt]

Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...

Nice Denix conversion man! If you don't mind me asking, did you make the stand yourself? I've been looking for a good display stand myself for a while, and while I really like the look of Master Replicas Elite Edition mirrored stand, I've been thinking about making one myself out of spare pieces of wood.

Are you planning on weathering the flash hider too? The rest looks perfect. :thumbsup

Stand is scratchbuilt. The three uprights are made from an acrylic rod for window blinds, $3 at Home Depot, just cut to length and stick to the shelf with a small support wire across the bull barrel.- I still need to do a bit of dressing up yet. Also still looking to get the right shade for the flash hider, although I kind of like the steel grey, a bit like the master replicas elite model. And definitely get the wood handles, they make a huge difference in the finished look. I originally wasn't going to bother with them but so glad I did.

 

[chizbot]

Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...

Not quite 100% (are they ever?) but getting close. I just got some very dark brown paste wax and I'm gonna mix it with some plain wax. I'll give it different degrees of polish in different areas. I was going for a well-used, grimy look. Kudos on the kits, this was a very fun build.

 

[MurdocXXL]

Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...

Getting closer to get mine finished as well...

 

[goldenry007]

Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...

How is everyone placing the greeblies on the bull barrel? I noticed the ones that came in our kit are a bit long to fit properly on the bull barrel. I'm assuming I need to cut them down a tad bit. I'm weathering/building my DL-44 based off of the attached image which I believe is a Master Replica version but wanted to get everyone's take. I see on this one the greeblies hang off the bull barrel a bit but not as far as the ones that we have do without modification. Thoughts? Canon? Bueller?

 

[Vanitas]

Re: Simplified, cheaper DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit parts (posted with permission fr...

How is everyone placing the greeblies on the bull barrel? I noticed the ones that came in our kit are a bit long to fit properly on the bull barrel. I'm assuming I need to cut them down a tad bit. I'm weathering/building my DL-44 based off of the attached image which I believe is a Master Replica version but wanted to get everyone's take. I see on this one the greeblies hang off the bull barrel a bit but not as far as the ones that we have do without modification. Thoughts? Canon? Bueller?
View attachment 349668

The Master Replicas Elite Edition is overall a nice piece, which did incorporate many new discoveries and ideas at the time of its creation, but is considered inaccurate by today's standards, mainly due to the barrel not being flat bottomed or tapered.
The sight greeblies are also inaccurate on it, as the real "antennas" were push rods from the Veron Hawker Tomtit kit, so the ones on the Elite Edition are probably misshapen to the real thing. Most people attach a piece of cut down T Track on the bull barrel with a small piece of tape, in order to keep it removable, and then glue the push rod greeblies on either side of the center hump.
The canon push rods were long and hung out a bit, although some people cut them shorter to idealize them, but in the end, it's personal preference to as how that comes out. It is also now commonly accepted that the real prop had a cut down piece of T Track with the push rods on either side of it, instead of on top of it, but again, most people idealize that part.