Deagostini Falcon. Anyone seen this?
- Thread starter Howard
- Start date
Can you explain how this is done, not being familiar with the whole brass etching thing, because it looks awesome and honestly when lit the Deago stock cockpit does not look so good.
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Scarecrow Joe
Sr Member
It looks really good but I already assembled the cockpit. Would I need to completely disassemble it to install this? BTW I just ordered a set. If I need to take out the original decals I would just go for it.
The instructions say something about using Micro Krystal Clear, Ive never heard of it. Is there another substitute for this chemical?
The instructions say something about using Micro Krystal Clear, Ive never heard of it. Is there another substitute for this chemical?
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mythshaker
Active Member
You would have to disassemble the whole thing. The existing back wall and floor have to be modified for the etched parts.
A 1 second Google search for Micro Krystal Klear will tell you more about it than you want to know.
Jargonking
Active Member
Jargonking
Active Member
Someone on another forum asked how best to apply the supplied decals as they are quite delicate. The best advice I can give is to use the following process….
1. Construct the etched bulkhead and overhead panels…apply CA glue sparingly with a cocktail stick, and only to the outside of the joint i.e. the backside. I left the door separate until after decalling.
2. Lightly prime the assembly….I used two light coats of Halfords grey primer which is an acrylic auto paint here in the UK but any suitable primer would do....
3. Paint the panels your chosen colour…I used a basecoat of Humbrol Slate Grey, once dry it was lightly drybrushed with Light Aircraft Grey and Matt White
4. Using a cocktail stick, apply a thin coat of Microsol Kristal Kleer glazing solution to the REAR FACE of the etched panels. This fills the holes with a film that turns clear when dry. I’ve heard of people use PVA glue for this but the Kristal Kleer is preferable if you have it….
5. Once the Kristal Kleer is dry (transparent) paint a thin coat of acrylic gloss clear varnish to the FACE SIDE of the panels to be decalled….I used Tamiya Clear and brush painted it on….allow to dry.
6. Cut each decal from the sheet as close as possible to the edge of the design. Do this one at a time so as not to mix them up.
7. Holding the decal in a pair of flat tweezers (I use plastic ones) momentarily dip the decal into lukewarm water and lift straight out again….DO NOT LEAVE THE DECAL FLOATING IN THE WATER.
8. After 15 to 20 seconds the decal will slide off the backing paper….apply the bulkhead decals first followed by the overhead panels ensuring that the edges meet.
9. As you apply the decals you can add a drop of water or Micro Set decal solution to the panel prior to sliding the decal on. DO NOT TOUCH THE DECAL WITH YOUR FINGER. Use a damp paintbrush to coax the decal into position.
10. Allow each decal to dry for ten minutes or so before applying the next. Don’t rush the job!
Follow this and you should be OK…..some people like to seal the decals, personally I think they are OK left as is so long as you don’t handle them once applied.
1. Construct the etched bulkhead and overhead panels…apply CA glue sparingly with a cocktail stick, and only to the outside of the joint i.e. the backside. I left the door separate until after decalling.
2. Lightly prime the assembly….I used two light coats of Halfords grey primer which is an acrylic auto paint here in the UK but any suitable primer would do....
3. Paint the panels your chosen colour…I used a basecoat of Humbrol Slate Grey, once dry it was lightly drybrushed with Light Aircraft Grey and Matt White
4. Using a cocktail stick, apply a thin coat of Microsol Kristal Kleer glazing solution to the REAR FACE of the etched panels. This fills the holes with a film that turns clear when dry. I’ve heard of people use PVA glue for this but the Kristal Kleer is preferable if you have it….
5. Once the Kristal Kleer is dry (transparent) paint a thin coat of acrylic gloss clear varnish to the FACE SIDE of the panels to be decalled….I used Tamiya Clear and brush painted it on….allow to dry.
6. Cut each decal from the sheet as close as possible to the edge of the design. Do this one at a time so as not to mix them up.
7. Holding the decal in a pair of flat tweezers (I use plastic ones) momentarily dip the decal into lukewarm water and lift straight out again….DO NOT LEAVE THE DECAL FLOATING IN THE WATER.
8. After 15 to 20 seconds the decal will slide off the backing paper….apply the bulkhead decals first followed by the overhead panels ensuring that the edges meet.
9. As you apply the decals you can add a drop of water or Micro Set decal solution to the panel prior to sliding the decal on. DO NOT TOUCH THE DECAL WITH YOUR FINGER. Use a damp paintbrush to coax the decal into position.
10. Allow each decal to dry for ten minutes or so before applying the next. Don’t rush the job!
Follow this and you should be OK…..some people like to seal the decals, personally I think they are OK left as is so long as you don’t handle them once applied.
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Scarecrow Joe
Sr Member
Thanks jargonking! Very nice informative and HELPFUL post.
BTW, a Google search would not provide something extremely critical....an insight into another RPF member experience. Telling someone to go and do a Google search is not helpful...at all. We all know what Google is....please, if someone wants to REALLY help another member, providing first hand info is what this is all about. Thanks again jargonking!
Judging what this Micro Klear is, I have a similar product from Micromark called Liquid PSA. Its an awesome product that dries clear and is the preferred method to glue plastic clear parts. Its a white mildly viscous liquid that would hill a little hole drying crystal clear.
BTW, a Google search would not provide something extremely critical....an insight into another RPF member experience. Telling someone to go and do a Google search is not helpful...at all. We all know what Google is....please, if someone wants to REALLY help another member, providing first hand info is what this is all about. Thanks again jargonking!
Judging what this Micro Klear is, I have a similar product from Micromark called Liquid PSA. Its an awesome product that dries clear and is the preferred method to glue plastic clear parts. Its a white mildly viscous liquid that would hill a little hole drying crystal clear.
EvanW
Well-Known Member
Speaking of Googling as strange as it sounds I can find stuff here on RPF searching through Google quicker than using the search function here a lot of the time. I even use Google to find my own threads here if they go back a ways and I don't feel like searching 26 pages of threads.
mythshaker
Active Member
Me too. Including threads about Micro Krystal Klear. But, in the world today there are just some people who can't be bothered with doing any work on their own. Their time is just too important relative to everyone else and they expect personal answers to their every question. THAT is not unique to this forum or any other forum.
Scarecrow Joe
Sr Member
Incorrect if you are referring about me, that of course you do. If i wanted to Google everything then I wouldnt be in any forum. If I want an interchange of impressions with knowledgeable, respectful and friendly people this is the place, not Google. You know what is with people today?? That some become so arrogant that they perhaps think they wasting time helping another guy. Maybe their time is so important. Some use the Google it as a way of saying **** you, like you just did, and you know you did. Thank God for other other good folks that still like to help others like jargonking and a lot others. B TW, when you asked if the Deago would or would not include a gun control interior no one told you to Google it...some guys answered back. Guess also some people believe they deserve everything and fail to learn from others. I will just ignore you so engage in any further patronizing posting you want if it makes you feel better.
Ok... I don't believe it was meant at you Joe... Personally I've found that alot of people that come in here asking specific questions can find the answers to it just by doing a google search of it. Sometimes it just takes the right keywords thou. But I seriously don't believe any remark above was meant towards you at all. And personally the search feature on this site isn't very good and using google to do the search, will bring up more relevant information that points back to these forums then using this forum's actual search feature itself. I know sometimes I'll do a search for something and come up completely empty, but then if I ask on the forums what keywords to use, bingo, there it is! I think mythshaker was correct about there are some users that rely on asking questions in the forums that could be answered just by doing a search (not directed at you personally). But I know there are times that I will find myself doing the same thing, but only after I've done a search myself and then smack myself in the head because I didn't think to add a keyword or phrase that would have made perfect sense. We all have moments like that... some more then others, but we are all here to help each other out! It wasn't a personal attack on you... it was a general statement. We all can be idiots sometime... myself included!
Hey Kokkari,
Sorry for the late reply, I have been very short of free time recently! Hope this is helpful for you.
If you feel that your floor requires additional bracing, I would recommend using Plastruct or Evergreen plastic girder sections under it. You should be able to find it in any good model shop or online. Remember that this area of floor is non load bearing effectively, all that will be placed on it would be some 3D print cargo, the small stool and Han's tools, so it does not have to be very strong, as long as it keeps its shape without deforming.
Have you got individual sections? If you do then I would recommend assembling them on top of a flat sheet of glass - mirror, cheese/cutting plate or board etc. This will ensure that it is flat when completed. I have a thick old mirror that I use when building kits that have square, 90 degree corners for this purpose.
Just picked up issue 32 from the newsagent this morning, the quality of the moldings of the engine flap actuator pieces is superb! Crisp edges and nice rivet detail. Not sure how accurate they are though, some of you here will know much better than me!
I am treading water somewhat at the moment with my build however, as my newsagent did not receive from DeAgo any of their subscriber ordered copies of issue 29. This is the only issue that I have had a problem with though, and it is on back order, so hopefully it will be here soon!
I am interested to see if you are getting the UK version of the magazine in the USA or if they have changed it, have they bothered to change the spelling to the "American English" version? My guess is that they wouldn't bother, they don't with US publications that are printed in the UK.
I am treading water somewhat at the moment with my build however, as my newsagent did not receive from DeAgo any of their subscriber ordered copies of issue 29. This is the only issue that I have had a problem with though, and it is on back order, so hopefully it will be here soon!
I am interested to see if you are getting the UK version of the magazine in the USA or if they have changed it, have they bothered to change the spelling to the "American English" version? My guess is that they wouldn't bother, they don't with US publications that are printed in the UK.
Jaitea
Master Member
I can't wait to get this for myself... just got Issue 24 here in the states! Looks like it'll be December before we see this issue! Can hardly wait!
Canada here, and I don't see any regional difference in the publications. They've been written pretty neutrally, but the giveaway is the extra "U"s.
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