INTRO:
Hello everyone!
As some of you might have heard, I'll be introducing my latest run of V2 and V3 replicas on to
my store in less than a weeks’ time
(August 1st 2024)
I'm
VERY excited to finally share with you the details of this latest run!
BRIEF OVERVIEW OF PREVIOUS RUN:
My previous V2 run was a
HUGE undertaking, which led me down a deep rabbit hole of research and development!
I was immensely proud of the final results, which culminated with both a working motorized stunt (as used by Sir Alec Guinness in the original SW movie), and a ROTJ V2.
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Both were as close to the original props as I could possibly make them (inside and out!).
My models and CAD drawings were developed over several iterations through a mixture of both 2D and 3D photogrammetry, cross-referencing as many photographic references as I could get my hands on.
The dimensions of each model were refined to match those seen in the available references, whilst using the known measurements of the clamp section to determine the reference scale.
This resulted in an incredibly accurate 3D model.
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The internal dimensions and construction were then determined through discussions with those familiar with the original prop as well as comments and drawing made by those working within the prop department during the production of the original movies.
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The V2 and Motorised Stunt were in fact the same physical prop.
The motorized stunt, which was originally built for the first movie, was hastily repurposed for use as Luke's second (replacement) saber in ROTJ, having lost his Graflex on Bespin (along with his hand!).
In order to make both the motorized stunt and the V2 as part of the same run, the body and emitter sections were machined as one single piece. For the motorised stunt, they were kept as one, and for the V2 the emitter was detached to allow for the spinning emitter that is present on the prop today (having been broken at some point between the two movies).
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The dents in the emitter face were added by hand using a jig which was custom made for this purpose. The jig was made by accurately modelling the damage, based on the available references and then reversing it to make a die/punch. The emitters were then pressed in a vice.
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As a personal project, I later used one of my V2 kits to create a V3 for my own collection. This was a fun project, and I was very happy with the results:
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Due to the different hole placements in the body and pommel, they were filled and painted. A custom emitter was also made to account for the larger face plate and smaller bearing housing.
My V2 and V3 were my pride and joy! The V2 was particularly special, having been fitted with all vintage parts.
Unfortunately, I had to let both of these go due to unforeseen circumstances.
This is the reason for this run, and I can’t wait to be reunited with these iconic props once again!
BRIEF OVERVIEW OF THIS RUN:
This run is going to be approached from a slightly different angle this time...
For this run, I will be tackling the V2 and V3 together!
Whilst these two are entirely different props, it's notable that they were cast from the same mould, so share the same general dimensions such as ring spacing.
There are notable differences in both the Pommel and the emitter however, so these parts are being made separately.
There are differences in the body and neck sections too of course, but I am having a base part made, which can then be modified (by me) for use on either.
All parts are now “In production” and both the V2 and V3 will be made available for pre-order from the 1st of August as fully finished commissions or as a limited number of DIY kits.
More details below…
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V2:
Pommel:
It’s hard to say what the most defining characteristic of these props is, but I think the pommel is certainly one of them! I went to great lengths to ensure that my previous V2 pommel was as close to the original prop as humanly possible, paying particular attention to the “cubes”. Whilst they are all ever so slightly unique, the V2 pommel is much tidier than that of the V3. I have however endeavoured to capture any minute irregularities. I have remodelled it this time around as I wanted to alter the depth of the interior (it ended just a little too close to the boot stud hole last time). The hole itself is half a millimetre larger too, as I was having to re-drill this on my previous run in order to fit the boot stud.
It is being machined without any surface level details, which will be added later by hand as part of my weathering commission.
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Emitter:
As the V2 Emitter is being made exclusively for use on a finished V2, I have opted this time around to have the damage machined for consistency. This will also save time when working on the finished commissions.
The dents that were painstakingly replicated in order to make my original bending jig, have this time been incorporated into the actual emitter model:
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Once assembled the emitter will spin freely as it does on the original prop in its current form.
Body:
Dimensionally, the body section is almost identical to my previous offering. One significant change is the internal shaft. My previous V2 was made to accommodate the motorised stunt. For this reason, I allowed for more clearance than was strictly necessary for the spinning internal rod. I aired on the side of caution, as I did not want the mechanism to jam. This meant that on the V2 build, a bushing was needed in the neck section. This will not be necessary this time around. The shaft will be machined at 6mm to allow for the smaller rod that was used in the V3. I’ll be expanding this to 8mm myself for the V2s. So no bushing will be needed in order to keep everything in place.
A fraction of a millimetre has been shaved off the diameter of the clamp section, as this was just a bit of a tight fit on my previous run.
Other than that, the body section is almost identical to my previous one with accuracy details such as irregular ring spacing, unique and accurate groove depths, accurate transition between clamp and grip section (slight incline and groove), all of which were present in my previous run.
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Clamp and Lever:
My previous V2 run included a third-party clamp (Roman Props). I was more than happy with these, but for my recent Obi Static Run I endeavoured to make as many parts as I could myself. This was for no other reason than taking on the challenge. The clamp proved to be particularly challenging! It very nearly derailed the whole run at one stage and some compromises had to be made (reluctantly!). The end result looked great, but the processes that were used were not ideal, and the cost was not at all practical. The clamp alone was costing me £90 to have made, which is three times more than some manufacturers are able to sell them for at a profit.
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This time around we are doing things a little differently! I have reverse engineered my previous clamp, and have now designed the necessary jigs to form and punch the sheet metal parts myself! These are currently “in production” along with the flat sheets.
I am determined to improve upon my previous attempt and I am aiming for nothing short of perfection!
I am extremely excited about this particular aspect of the run and cannot wait to share the results!
All clamp parts will be made using low carbon steel and then chrome plated.
My previous run incorporated a third party V2 clamp lever also. Again, I was extremely happy with these and would not hesitate to recommend WannaWanga! Roy has always been incredibly helpful and generous when supplying third party parts for my runs.
This time around though, I wanted to tackle the lever for myself. There are few clear references of the lever, sometimes giving contradictory impressions of its shape and size, I wanted to go through the process for myself and fully familiarise myself with the part. It was a fun little project, and I’m happy that I tackled it.
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Cone:
My previous “Cone Knob” was made by referencing a genuine vintage part. Whilst I was happy with the actual work that I did in recreating it in 3D, the end result was probably my least favourite part of the actual run. There is a high degree of variation in these vintage parts, and whilst it was great to be able to reference a genuine piece, the knurling was not quite identical to that seen on the original prop. On top of this, the knurling on my model and drawings was not followed as closely as I would have liked either. This resulted in a cone knob that was OK, but certainly NOT perfect!
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In this hobby, you quickly learn that there is always room for improvement! This is what pushes us forward!
This time around, I have taken the overall dimensions of my previous model, but completely reworked the knurling (referencing the actual prop).
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Ring:
The ring on the V2 is a very interesting shape and not one that is available off the shelf. I have had a 3D model of the actual ring since my last run, as it was modelled as part of my original overlay. So I have had the general dimensions for some time:
I considered creating a Jig in order to make these myself (as I do for my Heroes and Yumas), but I figured I would draw up some detailed drawings and approach a few manufacturers.
I’m very happy to say that I have managed to find someone to make both the V2 and V3 D-Rings at an affordable price, so my original plan of having a jig made is no longer necessary.
Boot Stud:
Over the past few years I have been collecting vintage wellington boots and waders, and I am happy to say that I have more than enough vintage boot studs for the entirety of this run:
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Clamp Card:
I’m very pleased to announce that the clamp cards for the V2 will be made by SlothFurnace. Brad has very kindly offered to make these at a discount, which has been incorporated in to the overall price of the kit.
These will be the gold plated “Vintage finish” V2 clamp cards, as seen on Slothfurnace.com
Stencils:
I was very happy with my last round of V2 Stencils, which will remain largely unaltered.
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I am currently working on a pre/early-production version of the stencils which will be finished prior to the parts arriving.
I’ll be sharing a preview of these in the form of high poly renders in the coming weeks.
V3:
Pommel:
Whilst the pommels are fairly similar and the pommel from my original V2 run made a great base for my first V3 build (with some modification), the V3 pommel, strictly speaking, should have much more irregular cube sizes, as well as a different hole placement. For this reason, I’ve opted to have the pommels machined independently to ensure absolute accuracy on both.
The V3 Pommel (like that of the V2) has been overlayed with a large number of references, so that each and every edge of every “cube” has been matched to the original prop from a large selection of high quality images. Every groove, slope and surface is completely unique, and matched perfectly with the original prop. Many of the references used are not within the public domain, so I am not able to share all of my workings unfortunately but rest assured that a thorough investigation of every detail has been done.
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Emitter:
When I built my previous V3, which was a one-off personal project, I used one of my V2’s as a base. I did have a dedicated emitter custom made for the build however, as the emitter face is noticeably wider and thinner than that of the V2 (amongst other details). For this reason, I did a full investigation at the time, and this has been the basis for my V3 emitter for this run.
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Body:
Aside from having different grub screw placements to the V2, the V3 body will require some cosmetic modifications such as offset seams, and some minor reworking of the rings and neck section.
The bodies have been designed with this in mind and are being machined so that they can be used for both. All holes will be drilled and tapped by me.
Details which are unique to the V3, such as the offset seams in the grip section, will be added also as part of the weathering process:
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Clamp and Lever:
The V3 clamp is notable for it’s additional holes and foil tape. It has both clamp bars (also foil wrapped) as well as it’s original Folmer lever.
The As mentioned above, the clamps are being made in house by me and plated here in the UK.
I have refined the lever ever so slightly based on observations of a genuine vintage Folmer clamp that I’m currently working on for a friend.
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Ring:
As with the V2, I have used the 3D environments that I have set up as part of my overlay process, to take precise measurements of the V3 D-Ring. The size (and shape) deference is stark!
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These are being manufactured to my exact specifications in stainless steel.
Clamp Card:
The V3 Clamp card will be hand made from brass strip (and electrical tape) as it appears to have been on the original prop.
COMMISSION OPTIONS:
There are a couple of different weathering options for both the V2 and the V3.
To make things simple, these can be described as:
“pre/early-production” and “post-production/Current day”
In both cases, references for post-production / current day are much more readily available.
Early production and on-set references do get a little tricky, however. So a certain degree of artistic licence is required.
The V2 changes dramatically during production. Parts are added and swapped. The paint is gradually chipped away too.
It is first seen in the deleted sandstorm scene. The body section has significantly more paint than in later scenes. There are no greebles such as the cone knob and boot stud, and the clamp is fitted with an exactra bubble strip!
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A later reference, shows that the cone knob and boot stud have been added, but the bubble strip is yet to have been swapped:
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Towards the end of filming, the V2 looks very much like it does today, albeit with slightly more paint intact.
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The current day, post-production look is the one that is most recognisable. This is how the prop looks today, with its chipped paintwork and dulled metal:
Here is an example of one of my previous “current day” weathering commissions alongside the original prop for comparison.
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The current day V3 is sometimes referred to as the “Nasa saber”. This refers to the time that it was sent into space as part of the shuttle program.
Here it is in its protective case:
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There are many available references of the V3 in it’s current form as it has appeared in various exhibitions and books over the years.
There are far fewer references of the prop during filming.
The V3 can be seen during production in the throne room scenes, as well as a couple of behind-the-scenes photographs.
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When piecing together these various references, it is clear that the production V3 was finished to match the general beat up look of the V2, but with the clean “booster” section that we see on the I.S.Y.H.C.A.N.L. It has the signature painted grooves and sanded rings that are present across all of the ROTJ “thin neck” props.
Prior to August 1st, I will update this thread with artistic representations of both the early-production / "Sandstorm" V2, as well as the on-set / "Throne Room" V3, along with a more detailed description of each weathering option.
Work is well underway on this.
PRICE/PAYMENT:
Bellow are the prices for each kit, and a breakdown of what is included:
V2 kit - £250
- V2 Body Section (drilled and tapped)
- V2 Emitter/Nipple (pre-damaged)
- V2 Pommel
- V2 Stainless Steel D-Ring
- Replica Michel thumbscrew / Cone knob
- Vintage Boot Stud
- Replica Graflex Clamp
- V2 Lever
- SlothFurnace V2 Clamp Card (Vintage Finish)
- Internal rod/bearings/fixings
- Vinyl Stencil kit
V3 Kit - £225
- V3 Body Section (drilled and tapped)
- V3 Emitter
- V3 Pommel
- V3 Stainless Steel D-Ring
- Replica Graflex Clamp (drilled)
- Brass V3 Clamp Card
- Internal rod/fixings
Weathering commission – £200
This is my flat rate for all weathering commissions. The V2 commissions require more stencil work, whereas the V3 commissions require more physical damage, so they actually balance themselves out. I figured it would be simpler to charge this flat rate, regardless of kit / weathering option.
Weathering commissions will be charged upon completion, along with shipping.
Current prices for shipping via UPS (subject to change*):
- UK - £16
- EU - £22
- USA - £30
- Canada - £30
- Australia - £38
- Japan - £28
- China - £28
*These are rough estimates based on current UPS prices and include full insurance up to £1000.
Shipping will be charged upon completion of any weathering commission or when DIY parts are ready to be shipped.
Please be aware that UK sales are subject to VAT unfortunately, which will be charged at checkout. I realise that this is frustrating for UK customers, but please bear in mind that this does not go to me and is collected on behalf of the government. Being VAT registered does bring down my costs (and therefore the starting price).
For international sales, any import duty / taxes are the responsibility of the buyer.
Transaction fees have been accounted for in the above prices.
Both PayPal and Stripe (card) payments are accepted on my store. Card payments are preferable as the fees are lower, but I understand that PayPal gives additional payment options as well as buyer protection, so obviously use whichever is most convenient for you.
RUN STRUCTURE:
** This part is VERY important!...**
Please be aware that this run is being structured differently to my previous ones.
I have ordered parts for a limited number of both V2 and V3 hilts.
These will be made available for
“Pre-Order” on the 1st of August. (Midday-UK time)
How long the waiting period is will depend greatly upon the order in which they are claimed.
The parts are currently
“In Production” and should be arriving with me throughout August.
The clamp parts will be arriving with me first and are already in quality control! I will be forming these and sending them to be plated while we await the arrival of the machined parts.
I will then be breaking down the run into manageable batches and working my way through them throughout the rest of this year.
I expect the first batch to be completed and sent out in September, but please bear in mind that the final batch could well be towards the end of the year.
Hopefully this is acceptable to all those who are considering taking part in the run.
I will be listing a limited number of DIY kits as part of the run. These will be shipped out as soon as they are ready.
DIY kits and Fully Weathered commissions will be listed at the same price on the store, as weathering commissions will be invoiced separately along with shipping. This second and final invoice will be sent out at the time of shipping.
This breaks up the cost for you, but also provides a regular income throughout the year for me, allowing me to restock on paints/chemicals, etc (and pay the bills!).
I will not be putting a strict timescale on commissions, as these things really do take as long as they take and cannot be rushed. I am aiming (roughly), to work through one batch per month, but I guess we’ll see how things progress. I will ALWAYS do my upmost to keep you informed with regular updates.
All parts are now ordered and “in production”. The first part has actually arrived which came as a shock! It was just the clamp washer though, so there are still a few things to come in yet!
The sheet metal parts for the clamps are in QC though and should be arriving way in advance of the aluminium parts. This will give me a window of time in which to form the parts and send them for plating.
I’m very excited to share the results of this process in the coming weeks.
Outstanding Hero / Yuma / I.S.Y.H.C.A.N.L commissions from my previous run are nearing completion and will be shipping next week. So from August 1st, up until 2025, I’ll be focussed 100% on this run!
Once orders have been taken, I will organise the run in to batches and will inform everyone as to which batch they fall in to.
I’d just like to say a huge
THANK YOU! to everyone for your kind words of support and for your interest in this run!
It’s always a pleasure to work on these for you and I can’t wait to get started!
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All the best and as always,
MTFBWY!
Dave
www.daveparkinart.com
