Darth Vader ROTJ Build - Studio 49

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by Studio 49, Aug 12, 2015.

  1. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I am currently in the process of building a Return of the Jedi Darth Vader that I plan to join the 501st Legion with.
    I started working on it early 2015 and have slowly been gaining momentum as I have had the time and funds to work on it.

    I have been documenting all of my progress over on the Sith Lord Detachment Forum and figured I might as well stated a build thread here as well.

    Parts List
    [Received] --- Helmet --- Bookface, Finished Darth Ugly Vader helmet
    [Received] --- Balaclava --- Anywhere I can find a plain black one
    [Received] --- Cape --- Custom Props
    [Received] --- Chest Armor --- Bookface, Finished chest + flush shoulder bells
    [Received] --- Inner robe --- Custom Props
    [Received] --- Bodysuit --- Custom Props, Two Piece Leather
    [BUILT AND DONE] --- Chest box --- Scratch Built by Myself
    [Received] --- Gloves --- Fenix Props
    [Received] --- Belt --- Fleet Farm & Muppet --- Assembled by me
    [BUILT AND DONE] --- Belt Boxes --- Scratch Built by Myself
    [BUILT AND DONE] --- Belt Buckle --- Scratch Built by Myself
    [Received] --- Saber Hook --- Wanna Wanga
    [Received] --- Cod Piece --- Artisan Props
    [Received] --- Shin Guards --- Portumac
    [Purchased] --- Boots --- Dublin Universal Tall Boots
    [Received] --- Lightsaber --- Parks MPP Replica (with Wanna Wanga parts upgrades)
    [Received] --- Compression Suit --- Local Retailer


    Other Miscellaneous Bits and Pieces
    [Received]--- Lightsaber Upgrade Parts --- Wanna Wanga
    [Received]--- Chest Box Electronics --- Fettronics
    [Received]--- Some of my 3D modelled and printed Chestbox parts --- My Shapeways Store
    [Received]--- Chestbox Decals --- Fenix Props
    [Received]--- Chicago Screws --- eBay

    [Purchased]--- Transport Case --- Pelican Case
    [Received]--- HelmetCarry Case --- Guardian CD-300-14 Drum Bag, 12" x 14" Tom Tom


    The Dream Upgrade List (Also Known as the Stuff I might one Day afford after approval)
    Primary
    [Received] --- Speakers --- Aker x2
    [Planned] --- Boots --- Chippewas or Soviet Boots

    Secondary
    [Planned] --- Show Lightsaber --- Ultrasabers Chosen One
    [Planned] --- Voice Changer --- A nice one, not sure which yet

    Tertiary
    [Planned] --- Chest Box V2 --- I'd Love to get my Parts CNC Machined
    [Planned] --- Belt Boxes V2 --- I'd build them out of Hammond boxes

    Part 1:
    Building the Belt Boxes from scratch
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    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
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  2. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Part 2:
    Quick test fit
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Revised more accurate scratch built buckle
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

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    Finished Electronic in belt boxes
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Ordered belt hook (for lightsaber)
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2015
  3. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    Those beltboxes look the part to me, great buckle too ... might I inquire where did you find those green light caps?

    Chaim
     
  4. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Happy to help, I got mine from a electronics store in Australia called Jaycar: see link below
    http://www.jaycar.com.au/Electromec...ated-Momentary-Pushbutton-IP65-Green/p/SP0747


    Also I have plenty more images to come of progress that I will upload when I get some more time!
     
  5. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Part 3

    My finished and accurate 3D model that I created

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG]My solution to chest box internal access
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2015
  6. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    The first mockup with the incomplete box and some parts
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    The lid on the back of the Chestbox

    [​IMG]

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    Last edited: Jan 6, 2016
  7. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Part 4

    ​Chamfered Sides
    [​IMG][​IMG]


    Sanded down and rounded sides

    [​IMG]
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    First coat of primer and black

    [​IMG][​IMG]



    Quick mock up of the parts I had at the time

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    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2016
  8. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Part 5

    Strapping System and Electonics
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    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Part 6
    Fresh shipment from Shapeways with my parts

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    Parts just ordered from Shapeways
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    Part 7
    Finished Chestbox!!

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    Last edited: Jan 6, 2016
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  9. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Part 7:
    Boots
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2016
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  10. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    Wow ... with those 3D skills you make it seem all to easy ... :wacko

    Chaim
     
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  11. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks!
    As much as I love 3D modelling I still love getting down and dirty building things by hand as well!
     
  12. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Here's some other stuff I have built over the last year:
    My version of the Crossguard Saber (3D modelled & printed from scratch)
    1.jpg 2.JPG


    Pre Vizlas Dark Saber (3D modelled & printed from scratch)
    5.jpg 1 2.jpg 6.jpg
     
  13. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    I just read your thread on the SLD Forums ... and it's best to get a TCSS saber when they are available again without grips ... then wait for Roy from wannawanga.com to finish his more accurate emitter shroud and D-ring ... and also order his additional parts such as bubblestrip and plastic T-tracks those are the most accurate these days and can be ordered in a nice package deal when available ... as for the wires for ESB/ROTJ those are vintage 18 gauge wires and come in red, brown, grey, white and blue. I hope that answers your questions posted on SLD :)

    Chaim
     
  14. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Star Wars:

    Clone ARC Trooper Commander Pistol

    1.png


    Senate Guard Ceremonial Rifle (Blue Royal Guards)
    2.png


    Z6 Rotary Blaster Cannon
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    Jabbas Gatekeeper Droid
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    Royal Guard Force Pike (Red Version)
    5.png






    Thunderbirds

    International Rescue Stun Pistol
    6.jpg 7.png

    - - - Updated - - -


    Awesome, just saw your comment then, thank you it's a huge help to hear from someone how knows their stuff about sabers!
     
  15. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    Have you ordered your 2 piece leather suit + cape and robe set yet?

    Chaim
     
  16. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thats next on the list, fingers crossed to place the order by the end of the month!

    --Edit--
    I have just put my parts list above in the first post so you can see exactly where I'm up to
     
  17. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Parts 8:
    I also purchased a 900 x 580 x 380mm Pelican carry case.
    This particular case typically sells for $230 AUD and I was able to purchase it for $130 AUD on clearance, so there was no way I was going to pass up a quality case such as this.

    Since the photos were taken Iv'e fitted wheels to the bottom and also plan on fitting 2 wheels to the end on the side so I can roll it like a suitcase.

    See photos below.

    72FE05F7-9CB1-432E-A9F4-62CA6DC03082_zpsuzzedigf.JPG 0089C356-8079-4C19-A17E-371E123E21F1_zps9qntjy6p-2.JPG BB1F46C5-BD56-46E6-BFF8-E73136891010_zpsajndfnie.JPG C43644CE-FB62-4D49-A1D5-1D77EA109512_zpsibtxcklr.JPG
     
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  18. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  19. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I have a question about how the Classified sections work in regards to interest threads.
    I wanted to ask here first because the last thing I want is to do the wrong thing.
    So at the moment I have 14 Darth Vader ROTJ Belt Buckle kits in hand that I want to sell, but I would like to work out if there is an interest here for them
    Would I technically have to get the premium membership to just do an interest thread because at this stage I don't want to have to go out and buy a premium membership of no one is interested?
    Would love to know so I can do the right thing
    Kind regards
    Studio 49
     
  20. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    For anything regarding sales ... you'll need a Premium Membership ... only for Want To Buy WTB section you can go without ... just not reply without a Premium Membership :)

    Chaim
     
  21. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thank you
     
  22. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I just got very lucky with someone welling parts for an unfinished Vader costume on the Sith Lord Detachment Forum, so I have just been able to buy another three parts, that are brand new, cheaper and completely avoid wait times!

    I have bought the following
    - Shin guards
    - Cod piece
    - Gloves
     
  23. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    Nice catch of the day . . . that's another way to get your precious costume together . . . congratulations . . . I'm always to late when logging in to the SLD forums while most goodies have already been presented during my sleep ... and quite a lot of 'vultures' circling unfinished costumes these days due to long waiting lists with most vendors :wacko

    Chaim
     
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  24. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Don't worry I know the feeling with missing things because of Timezones since I'm in Australia and I previously have missed two sets of shins since I was too slow.
    I finally got very lucky three nights ago as I was up a little later finishing some University work when I got a notification saying there was stuff on sale!

    Also looks like another member will be shipping me a belt that will work and it'll be more then half the price of getting a custom one from a supplier. (also ordered the Chicago Screws to put on the belt since it comes stock standard)
     
  25. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    ---Deleted---
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2015
  26. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Update 18:
    While I wait for other parts to arrive, I have started a build thread for a Ralph McQuarrie Concept Vader costume.
    I'm currently modeling a bunch pieces and have ordered an old JRX helmet which I will do up.
    I mention all this because I think some people might be missing it because it's in the "Research and Development of new characters Forum" and I think some people might have missed it and i would love to get feedback from anybody and everybody who is interested since the long term goal is to get it approved like the FISD did with their Concept TK.
    I'm going to need all the help I can get and will need feedback, so please feel free to leave feedback: http://forum.501stsi...wtopic=9571&hl=

    In other news I have applied the Chestbox Decals and will post pics when other parts arrive soon then do a quick and dirty test fit

    Will post pics when I get the chance
     
  27. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    UPDATE 19 - THE FIRST PROPER(ish) SUIT UP
    Ok I finally had some time to do a proper mock up suit up!
    And yes I am well aware that things will need tweaking when the rest of the parts arrive
    I just could not help myself, I had to do it.
    [​IMG]
     
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  28. ViperScout

    ViperScout New Member

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    Hey Mate. This is looking amazing..! Are those tracky-dacks the correct shade of grey..? ; )
     
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  29. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks for the compliments man, I hope to have in done sometime close to the end of the year and be out trooping with you guys, I can't wait!
    Oh and in regards to Lord Vaders Tracky-dacks, I do believe the Dark Lord was having a slow chill out day :D
     
  30. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    So I was browsing online and found this, I am still learning about what I should be looking for for a ROTJ Vader Saber, what do you guy reckon is this even worth pursuing for $75 USD? Also if this isn't something I should consider do you have any pointers on what to look for?







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    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
  31. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    It's a 2 Cell variant ... the emitter guts are perfect but the endcap is wrong ... it should be at least some 25 cm in length ... and with the correct shroud it will be even longer :

    [​IMG]

    Chaim
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2015
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  32. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thank mate for the super quick response!
    The description was as follows:
    Extra photo that I didn't post:
    [​IMG]
     
  33. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    Eventhough it's nice for a custom lightsaber conversion for Vader it's to short ... even with Roy's immaculate shroud attached.

    Chaim
     
  34. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Dang it! Oh well I shall keep searching now I have a bit of a better idea of what to look for. And I was planning to get Roy's parts for the conversion as well.
    Know I just need to find a Flash somewhere, Helihand ,Parks or otherwise.
    Thanks Sym-Cha
     
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  35. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    It's time for me to have a mini celebration, I just order my CP parts!!! Yes!!!! biggrin.png


    I am so pumped to finally be able to place my order!


    [​IMG]


    I am still yet to decide on 2 pice or 3 piece , so I'm hoping to make a decision to in the coming weeks after I attend a troop with a local Vader where I'm hoping to get some one on one feedback with him. And see the costume in action and hopefully learn about the suit up process and the like.


    I'm also going to do some extra measurements this weekend for boot material and the like as well as PM Bookface maybe and hopefully get an estimate on dates.


    I'm so excited right now, I don't think I'm going to get to sleep!!!

    biggrin.png
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
  36. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    Most SLD members seem to go for a 3 piece leather suit ... when I have the proper measurements of my customer I'll order a 3 piece suit via CP as soon as I can . . . I have an older 1 piece leather which is nice too but movablility for the arms can be somewhat of an issue even with the extra weight of the armor :)

    Chaim
     
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  37. Zugor

    Zugor New Member

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    Can I ask you about your belt box buttons? What diameter are they and how far out from the box do they extend? Where did you get them?
     
  38. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Well, time for an update of a different kind.
    This time for my Pelican Case (or "Kit Transportation Apparatus" ;) )
    Its an awesome and durable case, perfect for getting stuff to troops. But I just had one issue... There were no wheels.
    So I came up with a solution that meant I didn't have to drill holes in the case and sacrifice the weather proofing.
    My challenge was to come up with away to attach wheels without them being permanent but still sturdy.

    So as I found solution was simple. First I got one of those fold up sack trucks (like this here http://www.bunnings.com.au/euro-design-70kg-capacity-aluminium-hand-trolley-_p3360516).
    Then remove the top potion making it the perfect height for sitting against the case. Then I just put some spacers on the underside of the case so I could then apply heavy duty velcro strips. And as it turns out this was perfect and capable of being wheeled around by just using the handle on the other end of the Pelican.




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    And after some test fits I found the end handle matched up perfectly with a hole in the wheel frame and I could jam it through (nice and snug) and there no way those wheels are coming of without me making them. Also should mention that the wheel position folds up flat for easy storage.


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    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
  39. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Alrighty then! I'm so stoked right now because, drum roll please......

    f96a81b9cec841e811c8f19a7a67b27c.jpg






    My lightsaber just arrived! To be clear this guy is a Parks Sabers MPP Flash Gun Replica.
    Very very nice, good heft to it as well (just adds to that realism)
    I'll be carrying out a conversion on him when the Wanna Wanga kit arrives so for now I'm going to be removing the grips, cleaning and preparing for etc arrival of the parts.
    So onto the pictures of this beautiful hilt:


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    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
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  40. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    Just out of curiosity ... is that Parks' shroud made of metal or somesort of resin/plastic?

    Chaim
     
  41. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    So I just had a look at the shroud and it is 100% metal. What I did was unscrew the thumb screw on the rear and I could see the thread was an un-anodized metal
     
  42. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    So today I began removing the grips and cleaning up the hilt. The rubber grips peeled off with zero hassle but did leave behind a significant amount of glue.
    So I busted out my arsenal to begin the clean up. I was very careful to only use substances that would not damage the chrome, so for any of you that are interested heres what I used:


    - Methylated Spirits (with clean paper towel)
    - Eucalyptus Oil (with clean paper towel)
    - Multi-purpose cleaner (with clean paper towel)
    - Normal multi-purpose wet wipes




    Most of the glue came of with some gentle encouragement from the wet wipes alone and then for the more stubborn parts I moved onto my other cleaners alternating as I saw fit.
    So the pictures below are of where the hilt is up to now:


    4A_zpsu2spzvin.jpg



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    4D_zps3lczokzj.jpg

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    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
  43. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Some more progress on the saber today.
    I completely stripped it back to individual parts so I could get into removing the "MICROFLASH" Logo.
    So I figure I may as well explain each step I went through today in preparation for the upgrades




    1: First I taped off the area around the emblem with painters tape so that I wouldn't scratch any of the chrome
    Then I proceeded to remove it by first sanding of the little top bugle of etc rivet heads until it was level with the emblem.
    ​Then I got out a drill bit and with a battery drill proceeded to lightly drill out the next bit until the plate came loose.
    5A_zpscqdovq23.jpg






    2: This is what it looked like without the plate
    5B_zpsa7bfbevm.jpg






    3: The saber hilt completely disassembled
    5C_zpsxumrdvrq.jpg






    4: Next I had to come up with a plan to deal with the potential hole that would inventively be left once the rivets were removed.
    ​Now I know that in the past others have tapped the hole and inserted little screws, but I wanted to try something a little different. It could work out great or just fail in which case I'll go another route.
    ​So what I'm doing is leaving the rivets as they are now and I have applied Liquid Names adhesive to the back of the rivets in the interior of the tube.
    ​Then in a dew days when it's rock solid I'll trap off the area around the rivets poking out and sand/lightly grind the bit boring out until flush. I'm thinking that this should produce a much cleaner appearance.
    The picture below is of me confirming that the glue on etc rivet backs won't interfere with other hilt internals and lucky for me it won't.
    5D_zps5v7dt978.jpg






    5: Now it's just a matter of waiting for it dry and then grind/ sand it back. And then, with some basic glue removal still to be done from the grips I'll be ready to dive right into the conversion when my kit arrives. Oh and I almost for got I'll need to take the lever off the clamp but that should be easy.
    5E_zps2vip8o2o.jpg

    5A_zpscqdovq23.jpg

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    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
  44. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    Just so you know ... now that you've confirmed Parks shroud to be metal ... for ROTJ there's no need to get another MPP replica shroud ... Parks is as close to what the MPP shroud looked in ROTJ in regards to the thicker edge :

    [​IMG]

    Roy does have a set of all the colored wires for ESB/ROTJ :)

    Chaim
     
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  45. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Some more progress on the saber today.
    I completely stripped it back to individual parts so I could get into removing the "MICROFLASH" Logo.
    So I figure I may as well explain each step I went through today in preparation for the upgrades




    1: First I taped off the area around the emblem with painters tape so that I wouldn't scratch any of the chrome
    Then I proceeded to remove it by first sanding of the little top bugle of etc rivet heads until it was level with the emblem.
    ​Then I got out a drill bit and with a battery drill proceeded to lightly drill out the next bit until the plate came loose.
    5A_zpscqdovq23.jpg






    2: This is what it looked like without the plate
    5B_zpsa7bfbevm.jpg






    3: The saber hilt completely disassembled
    5C_zpsxumrdvrq.jpg






    4: Next I had to come up with a plan to deal with the potential hole that would inventively be left once the rivets were removed.
    ​Now I know that in the past others have tapped the hole and inserted little screws, but I wanted to try something a little different. It could work out great or just fail in which case I'll go another route.
    ​So what I'm doing is leaving the rivets as they are now and I have applied Liquid Names adhesive to the back of the rivets in the interior of the tube.
    ​Then in a dew days when it's rock solid I'll trap off the area around the rivets poking out and sand/lightly grind the bit boring out until flush. I'm thinking that this should produce a much cleaner appearance.
    The picture below is of me confirming that the glue on etc rivet backs won't interfere with other hilt internals and lucky for me it won't.
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    5: Now it's just a matter of waiting for it dry and then grind/ sand it back. And then, with some basic glue removal still to be done from the grips I'll be ready to dive right into the conversion when my kit arrives. Oh and I almost for got I'll need to take the lever off the clamp but that should be easy.
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    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
  46. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Alright, some more progress on the Saber. This morning I was able to tape off around the rivets and then gently and easily sand the tops of the rivets down
    Now they're only about half a millimeter off the surface of the saber and the blend in perfectly.
    I gotta say I'm so glade I did this instead of little stews our whatever other people doing this conversion have done since this result is really nice and seamless! So much so you can barely see it in the photos (That's the idea I guess wink.gif ) and I had to circle them for you!


    So here's what My little experiment achieved:
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    And for reference here's what the rivet ends looked like before: They look so much better now
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    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
    Sym-Cha likes this.
  47. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Small update, I was able to use semimetal polish to finally remove the last of the glue gunk from the body of the hilt!
    Now I'm 100% ready for the Wanna Wanga kit to arrive :cool
     
  48. Studio 49

    Studio 49 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    So finally my Saber parts made there way Down-under. dance.gif
    Man shipping times can be excruciating here especially when you're building Vader! All you lucky people with same day delivery, a 2 week wait is quick to me!

    Oh well makes me love it even more when it does arrive! biggrin.png




    So I got in my package from Wanna Wanga were my grips, bulb release, shroud and wires.
    I'll post some observations with each image.




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    All parts unpacked-ish and of an excellent high quality biggrin.png
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    There were a few nicks in the paint on the shroud, nothing a tiny dab of Sharpie couldn't fix though so no problem at all
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    The wires are excellent since they're bendable and will hold their shape once bent.
    Although brilliant they don't seem to fit in the holes so I may have to shave a bit off of the ends to get them where I want them or I could just be doing it completely wrong.

    Please let me know If there's something I'm missing.
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    Nice close up of the shroud, the crumby photos I took don't do it justice!
    The biggest thing I found was in regards to the Build Release Mechanism. I ended up going with the Parks one that came with the hilt initially since the new one seemed to be roughly 1mm short of the hole on the hilt which was enough for the screw not to fit. So I just went for the old one which fit. I may try again since I may have done something incorrectly so it may be my fault.
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    So yeah overall I'm absolutely stoked with my parts the main challenge I have now is the wires and adhering the grips.
    So if anybody has any advice on either I'm certainly all ears!
    Thanks Roy for the excellent parts mate biggrin.png

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    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
  49. Panaflex

    Panaflex Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Great update. I really like the quality work on the rivets/badge. I probably wouldn't have chanced it. Well done.
     
  50. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    You have to cut those wires to the size you need about an inch (?) ... and the red can be even shorter and then squeeze the ends with a plier before adding in both 'E' sockets ... just do some proper measurements with a piece of left-over electrical wire in the house before cutting up Roy's colored ones. As you mentioned it is possible that the bulb release replica is not perfect to swap with your Parks ... the size was based on my MPP so the distance of screw holes may vary slightly :)

    [​IMG]

    Chaim
     

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