Custom 'ruiner' Updated Cast On Page 7.
- Thread starter REYALS1
- Start date
REYALS1
New Member
Modified the bio a bit.
Wasn't digging the hoses but managed to find something small enough that could actually be believable enough to serve the same purpose. Plus I thought..."self, just go with the basics of a bio". So, I refined some of the design to be a bit more basic.
Took the horn away, and took the cheek bone area down a tad. Gave the dome a nice texture using mardi gras necklace beads, and kind of re-shaped it a little. I spent about an hour making sure it was as close to syommetrical as I could get it without using calipers. Believe me, I am a weirdo when it comes to things being even, lol. That's why when Quake mentioned the cheeks to me I was all..."ugh, now I see it".
If this pic is rotated, I will fix it when I get home. My damn phone likes to rotate pictures on me.
Just a little more to be done and things to be ordered, and I will finally be finished.
I will be asking for assistance on the molding and casting part of course. Like what type of materials to buy and so on and so forth. Like always, enjoy, hope you like it, and let me know what you think.
Wasn't digging the hoses but managed to find something small enough that could actually be believable enough to serve the same purpose. Plus I thought..."self, just go with the basics of a bio". So, I refined some of the design to be a bit more basic.
Took the horn away, and took the cheek bone area down a tad. Gave the dome a nice texture using mardi gras necklace beads, and kind of re-shaped it a little. I spent about an hour making sure it was as close to syommetrical as I could get it without using calipers. Believe me, I am a weirdo when it comes to things being even, lol. That's why when Quake mentioned the cheeks to me I was all..."ugh, now I see it".
If this pic is rotated, I will fix it when I get home. My damn phone likes to rotate pictures on me.
Just a little more to be done and things to be ordered, and I will finally be finished.
I will be asking for assistance on the molding and casting part of course. Like what type of materials to buy and so on and so forth. Like always, enjoy, hope you like it, and let me know what you think.
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REYALS1
New Member
Yeah Jose, sure is.
I'm having problems trying to figure out what I need to buy as far as materials, the approximate quantity needed, and how much to use.
I have been searching on here but (lets face it) the search doesn't work as to the specific information I need. I've been racking my brain and searching Youtube like mad trying to figure chit out. Even watching other 'Lair' brethren videos.
I guess though, comes with the whole "trial and error" thing.
I'm having problems trying to figure out what I need to buy as far as materials, the approximate quantity needed, and how much to use.
I have been searching on here but (lets face it) the search doesn't work as to the specific information I need. I've been racking my brain and searching Youtube like mad trying to figure chit out. Even watching other 'Lair' brethren videos.
I guess though, comes with the whole "trial and error" thing.
torredator
New Member
Very cool!
SMOKE
Well-Known Member
Looks awesome Reyals!! Definitely something I want on my wall! I use rebound 40 from smooth on. Awesome stuff.
Hez did a awesome thread on now to do the brush on rebound method. He used rebound 25 I think. I've tried both and personally like the 40 better. If you go the rebound method, Instead of 2 trial sizes of rebound go with 3.
Here's a link to Hez thread. ( I'm sure you've read it before lol)
http://www.thehunterslair.com/topic/12592-sculpting-and-molding-a-bio-start-to-finish/page__hl__molding
Hez did a awesome thread on now to do the brush on rebound method. He used rebound 25 I think. I've tried both and personally like the 40 better. If you go the rebound method, Instead of 2 trial sizes of rebound go with 3.
Here's a link to Hez thread. ( I'm sure you've read it before lol)
http://www.thehunterslair.com/topic/12592-sculpting-and-molding-a-bio-start-to-finish/page__hl__molding
REYALS1
New Member
Okay... here is a small update. I do have a question though with it... Is there a specific diameter the shroud opening is supposed to be? Right now I have it opened at about 1" (2-1/2mm) in size. Will this suffice for a trilaser?
Anywho,,, I am ordering some rebound 25/40 http://www.smooth-on...1132/index.html and smooth cast http://www.smooth-on...1210/index.html plus some release agent. I wanted to get to ordering it the other night, but as always.. time just got away from me.
As for the mother mold...
Anywho,,, I am ordering some rebound 25/40 http://www.smooth-on...1132/index.html and smooth cast http://www.smooth-on...1210/index.html plus some release agent. I wanted to get to ordering it the other night, but as always.. time just got away from me.
As for the mother mold...
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SMOKE
Well-Known Member
Glass it.
Make sure your silicone is nice and thick and you cover all of you undercuts so that it is nice and smooth. That way after you glass it, you won't have any problems demolding it. If you dont, some fiber glass can get around those over hang areas and it could be a bitch to demold it.
In your case. the thin ridge around the crown down to the eyes and the trilaser area. of you make those areas nice smooth down to the nose (this would be during your thivex layer) and the rest is at least a 1/2cm-1cm thick with the rebound you should be A OK. Start from the crown and work your way down. work your brush like..::brush brush:: .. :dabble dabble:: Spread it and the dabble it to push out the air bubbles. It's crucial in the first layer that you dabble and brush out all of the tiny bubbles and push the silicone into the cracks of your art work.
I hope that made sense and helps.
Can't wait to see the ruiner in resin!
Make sure your silicone is nice and thick and you cover all of you undercuts so that it is nice and smooth. That way after you glass it, you won't have any problems demolding it. If you dont, some fiber glass can get around those over hang areas and it could be a bitch to demold it.
In your case. the thin ridge around the crown down to the eyes and the trilaser area. of you make those areas nice smooth down to the nose (this would be during your thivex layer) and the rest is at least a 1/2cm-1cm thick with the rebound you should be A OK. Start from the crown and work your way down. work your brush like..::brush brush:: .. :dabble dabble:: Spread it and the dabble it to push out the air bubbles. It's crucial in the first layer that you dabble and brush out all of the tiny bubbles and push the silicone into the cracks of your art work.
I hope that made sense and helps.
Can't wait to see the ruiner in resin!
SMOKE
Well-Known Member
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