**COMPLETED** Y-Wing 1/48 resin model

In theory, yes, you could putty the gap or something similar. But the way that Bandai have engineered this kit is that they made the cake section removable to access the switch for the lighting, which I just went along with. I have an IR remote powering the engines, but the main LED strip is still accessed by removing the cake section. I'm still trying to think of a workaround there.

SB

I wonder if that is why I did not have that issue. I never liked the idea of having to take the top off to turn it on, my 1/72 falcon had that little rear hatch and I didn't like that either. For my SD I actually glued all the top bridge parts on first, ran all the electronics, and then cemented the two halves together and I ended up with no light leaks. I just ran all the wires through to a base I made with a battery pack after modifying the one it came with.
 
Look what I found on page 2, waiting for a build update!

Ha! Honestly, I'm having trouble finding time to work on the Y. I need to figure out what diameter of styrene rod I need for the tubing, and then I need to order plastruct t-rod, because the Evergreen stuff isn't strong enough to hold all of the engine bits in the back without drooping. So it's a non-update, really. Sorry.

SB
 
If the T strips are not up to snuff you can always use brass with some plastic strip glued on to make the T... just as a fallback.

Jedi Dade
 
What was used on the studio scale model?

If plasitc T strips, are the resin printed parts that much heavier than the plastic donor pieces, or are maybe the larger T-strips just more sturdy?

Not sure if it would work, but you could try HO scale rails for model railroad track/ Maybe Code 70 type as they are not as thick/heavy as code 100? Or maybe S or O scale stuff if HO is too small?
 
I know that there are brass L shaped pieces available... two of those soldered together would make a nearly indestructible T shape.
 
Am I right in thinking that some of the studio models had T shape engine struts and some had a triangle profile?

I was planning to use 3mm brass 90degree angles, and making them into triangles by adding styrene to cover the open side.

For the pipes I think I worked out that they would be roughly 1.5mm, based on scaling up the .stl files (so assuming the stl files are correct). I bought brass rod as I think it will be easier to work with than styrene.
 
Am I right in thinking that some of the studio models had T shape engine struts and some had a triangle profile?

I was planning to use 3mm brass 90degree angles, and making them into triangles by adding styrene to cover the open side.

For the pipes I think I worked out that they would be roughly 1.5mm, based on scaling up the .stl files (so assuming the stl files are correct). I bought brass rod as I think it will be easier to work with than styrene.

I've seen that many (not sure about all) use a T-profile, but then the Bandai 1/72 kit uses a triangular profile. I initially bought triangle stock for mine, but it just looks weird at that scale.

SB
 
Still a bit off topic, but I used my 1/72 Y-Wing to make an image based on the bombing run from Rogue One:

Y-Wing bombing run - 2k.jpg


SB
 
Okay, I went to the hobby shop today and got some 1.6mm styrene rods for the Y. They're pretty flimsy, so we'll see how that works out. They didn't have any Plastruct, so I'll order that online and we'll get crackin' again.

SB
 
oh well done Steven! Very well deserved
I also like your SD pictures. Maybe I could persuade you into doing something like that for mine when its done? :unsure::)
 
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oh well done Steven! Very well deserved
I also like your SD pictures. Maybe I could persuade you into doing something like that for mine when its done? :unsure::)

That would be an honor!

My dream is to take all of the talent that's here on The RPF and remake (I use that term loosely) the space battles in the Original Trilogy (or even just an awesome fan film). We have all of the talent here: People making all of the studio scale models, people detailing up other ships, people making life-sized cockpit interiors... Then we would just need to get all of the model ships in the same room in order to shoot them on blue screen using motion control!

But alas. Tis but a dream...

SB
 

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