Cheap PKD (Water Gun)
- Thread starter Fett_Ish
- Start date
Being one of the provider for this item from Japan and as far as I have been told by ELFIN KNIGHTS, there will be only one single batch of these... because of license and stuff it seems.
I am very happy seeing how people are in love with these "cheap" replicas and how they turn them into precious items! You are fantastic guys!!
I am very happy seeing how people are in love with these "cheap" replicas and how they turn them into precious items! You are fantastic guys!!
My build is nearing the finish line, so it's time to share. Thanks for all the inspiration in this thread!
After a lot of debate, the grip on my blaster was filled with hot glue, as I was trying to save my remaining clear resin for another project. I made an additional hole at the top of the grip to fill the upper chamber. I added the glue in layers so it didn't melt the grip. I was able to speed up the process by wrapping the gip in a flexible cold pack, which also helped avoid any overheating. The hot glue made for a slow process overall, and I'd probably just go for clear resin if I was to do it again. The main body is filled with sand, and I mounted 3mm dummy LEDs where necessary. That made a HUGE difference in the realism of the prop. Cutting the holes for the green sight LEDs took some care, but it's worth it.
Base coat was done in black enamel (rattle can), then wet sanded and polished. Receiver got a thin coat of airbrushed gun metal, then more polishing, then weathering. I'm planning to make the inner bolt area a little more silver on the next paint pass. Should look pretty good.
I own way more PKD blasters than any man needs, so I was OK with leaving a few of the water gun details as-is for this build. ie: missing nose details, missing butt plate bolts, etc.
I think it lets some character come through, and it makes this prop a little different from my other PKD blasters.
I need to make one more pass at the final weathering, and it should be done. Whew!
That's hitting the ball outta the park. Dang that's good :eek
wow. That would really make things interesting for the stock water guns out there. And ebay.
That is downright amazing. Really well done :thumbsup
Mr Webber
Master Member
Great Caesars ghost, that was once a water pistol? Epic.
Candykiller
Well-Known Member
Very nice work. Beautifully done!
Thanks dude. Your build was super clean and inspirational.
I actually have a full set of your posters hanging in my office, but never knew you were an RPF member. Good to connect!
renegadecow
Active Member
I have to ask though, with all these great custom paint jobs, why are many of you retaining the "made in china" mark?
streather
New Member
The Yahoo store linked a few pages back appears to have them in stock.
Link if anyone wants it https://store.shopping.yahoo.co.jp/media-world/50704186000.html
Interesting that these might be a one off batch due to licensing... These already have folk trying to sell them for 10x the price, I dread to think how much they could end up going for.
Link if anyone wants it https://store.shopping.yahoo.co.jp/media-world/50704186000.html
Interesting that these might be a one off batch due to licensing... These already have folk trying to sell them for 10x the price, I dread to think how much they could end up going for.
wayouteast
Sr Member
That's beautiful work! Well done!
Candykiller
Well-Known Member
I think it's good to retain some of the “spirit” of the original piece, and the “Made in China” is left as a mark of what it once was. I don’t have a problem with it.
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Kylo1
Sr Member
Absolutely awesome!!! A job well done sir!
Can I ask how you fixed the LED's if you didn't have access from the inside?
Well, the original says "Made in Austria" in that same spot, and it's hard to change "China" to "Austria", so I suppose it's better to have SOME text there rather than smoothing it over completely!
My thoughts exactly.
lukanoir
New Member
Hello,
As a longlife BR fan I sometimes check on eBay for Blaster replicas and everytime I check there are some super expensive ones. So couple of months ago I noticed this "cheap water-pistol" version and thought "nice, but $70 is too high and I need to pimp it to look like a gun and not a toy"... then Adam Savage releases the video of the mentioned toy and the prices sky-rocket. Luckily I am subscribed to his channel so I saw it really early.
I Googled the hell outta everything and just couldn't find any Japaneese site that sells to my country or ships at normal price, I live in Serbia. So I went to the original bookmarked eBay item I found couple of months ago and there was only one left for $70 (free shipping to RS)... and bought it. There are cheaper version but with the blue grip.
I registered onto this forum just for this, I am gonna repaint it and put LED inside. I am not gonna put weights in it cause it is plastic and if "someone" drops it I don't want it to break under full force - the lighter the better.
But I am interested in how dmpsk8 opened it and put the LED inside:
I saw the post from wayouteast who cut it in half with a "extra-fine razor saw":
I am an ex web-designer now programmer who is semi-collector with couple of model kits done... so not too experienced in "customizing". But I really want to make this Blade Runner Blaster. I have a friend who is a "diorama maker" but he mostly does paint jobs, so at least I got that covered. Still need to do the LED and battery wiring.
Estimated delivery is: Sep. 12 - Oct. 9. I hope this gets before the BR2049 premiere cause I do occasional cosplay for the local theater.
Any suggestions or experiences on how to open this least painful or best practice for battery replacement?
Thanks everyone
As a longlife BR fan I sometimes check on eBay for Blaster replicas and everytime I check there are some super expensive ones. So couple of months ago I noticed this "cheap water-pistol" version and thought "nice, but $70 is too high and I need to pimp it to look like a gun and not a toy"... then Adam Savage releases the video of the mentioned toy and the prices sky-rocket. Luckily I am subscribed to his channel so I saw it really early.
I Googled the hell outta everything and just couldn't find any Japaneese site that sells to my country or ships at normal price, I live in Serbia. So I went to the original bookmarked eBay item I found couple of months ago and there was only one left for $70 (free shipping to RS)... and bought it. There are cheaper version but with the blue grip.
I registered onto this forum just for this, I am gonna repaint it and put LED inside. I am not gonna put weights in it cause it is plastic and if "someone" drops it I don't want it to break under full force - the lighter the better.
But I am interested in how dmpsk8 opened it and put the LED inside:
I saw the post from wayouteast who cut it in half with a "extra-fine razor saw":
I am an ex web-designer now programmer who is semi-collector with couple of model kits done... so not too experienced in "customizing". But I really want to make this Blade Runner Blaster. I have a friend who is a "diorama maker" but he mostly does paint jobs, so at least I got that covered. Still need to do the LED and battery wiring.
Estimated delivery is: Sep. 12 - Oct. 9. I hope this gets before the BR2049 premiere cause I do occasional cosplay for the local theater.
Any suggestions or experiences on how to open this least painful or best practice for battery replacement?
Thanks everyone
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Kylo1
Sr Member
Hello,
As a longlife BR fan I sometimes check on eBay for Blaster replicas and everytime I check there are some super expensive ones. So couple of months ago I noticed this "cheap water-pistol" version and thought "nice, but $70 is too high and I need to pimp it to look like a gun and not a toy"... then Adam Savage releases the video of the mentioned toy and the prices sky-rocket. Luckily I am subscribed to his channel so I saw it really early.
I Googled the hell outta everything and just couldn't find any Japaneese site that sells to my country or ships at normal price, I live in Serbia. So I went to the original bookmarked eBay item I found couple of months ago and there was only one left for $70 (free shipping to RS)... and bought it. There are cheaper version but with the blue grip.
I registered onto this forum just for this, I am gonna repaint it and put LED inside. I am not gonna put weights in it cause it is plastic and if "someone" drops it I don't want it to break under full force - the lighter the better.
But I am interested in how dmpsk8 opened it and put the LED inside:
I saw the post from wayouteast who cut it in half with a "extra-fine razor saw":
I am an ex web-designer now programmer who is semi-collector with couple of model kits done... so not too experienced in "customizing". But I really want to make this Blade Runner Blaster. I have a friend who is a "diorama maker" but he mostly does paint jobs, so at least I got that covered. Still need to do the LED and battery wiring.
Estimated delivery is: Sep. 12 - Oct. 9. I hope this gets before the BR2049 premiere cause I do occasional cosplay for the local theater.
Any suggestions or experiences on how to open this least painful or best practice for battery replacement?
Thanks everyone
Hi there. I believe dmpsk8 didn't open his gun up and just put the non working LED's in place from the outside. Unless the gun was originally not very well glued together, I think it would be quite a chore to separate into 2 halves. Good luck with it though.
wayouteast
Sr Member
Hiya. Welcome from another relative newbie to the forum (or at least long term lurker recent first poster)
From my experience I don't think there's any easy way to open up the gun without cutting it - it's VERY solidly bonded together and will almost certainly crack if you just try and prise it apart. I just used the thinnest razor saw blade I had, and the thinnest cutting disk in my Dremel and went all round the seam. Even then, there were two areas that were really difficult to get the saw into (around the top of the butt - because of the sealed internal structures - and the inside top of the trigger guard). I left those areas until the rest of the seam was separated and then used a flat screwdriver blade to prise the halves apart in those places. It was tricky and a couple of times I thought the plastic would crack but if you work carefully (and try to ignore the horrible sounds of plastic under stress!) it will come come apart.
I'm definitely going with having the battery (9v PP3) in the grip - it's only place where there both room and easy access. I plan to saw the butt plate off for access and mount small strong magnets to hold it in place once the battery is inserted.
I've had to take a few days away from the project due to work, but here's where I'm up to currently...
The 5 red LEDs in the magazine are switched on and off from the switch in the magazine itself (I replaced the moulded switch with a micro slide switch the same size). The 2 green LEDs in the sight are switched on and off by a separate micro slide switch in the circular hole where the water filling point was (there a largish hex nut there on the original blaster). So I can have all 7 LEDs lit at once, or have the green LEDs off and the red LEDs on (which seems to be the case for a lot of the film).
A word to the wise - don't solder components above the gun! It was only a very small splash of solder but it went right through the plastic like butter!
Luckily it's only a small hole and in a place with little detail and a bit of filling and sanding will sort it out.Still waiting on a couple of items to complete the front of the receiver. Once those arrive and the lead weights are added I can close the blaster up and start painting - which is what I'm really looking forward to having see the amazing paint jobs that other people have posted on this thread - all of them look stunning! A LOT to live up to!
