i imported the tomenosuke no problem...
Cheap PKD (Water Gun)
- Thread starter Fett_Ish
- Start date
i imported the tomenosuke no problem...
MontagueFlange
Active Member
You get the orange tip in the bag
nbennie
Member
This Malaysian website claims to have them on pre-order. They are about $16.00 US.
https://www.kisekigalaxy.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1307
https://www.kisekigalaxy.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1307
Is that site legit? is that including shipping? When are they being released?
Darko
Active Member
829Japan
New Member
Totally legit offer from someone who knows how hard it is to deal with eBay scalpersPM sentI certainly hope your legit as I would love to get my hands on one of these.
But until you have your water gun in hand I understand you can't fully trust a random guy on the internet suddenly showing up like that.
wayouteast
Sr Member
Getting so close to painting now... All electronics in and working. Fully weighted - the blaster now turns the scales at a fraction over 1 Kg (which doesn't seem too far off what it should be if wasn't plastic ... EDIT: I came up short; apparently the actual hero prop blaster weighs 1.5 Kg... but there's no more room for weight in mine! )! All I have to do is finish up the receiver front detail, sort the fixings for the removable butt plate for battery access, and add a few details. Then I can close it up, fill and finish, and break out the airbrush!
But, speaking of details, I have a quandary. White wires? Or no white wires? The original blaster has those two (three?) white wires on the 'sight' side, just in front of the cylinder. Are those part of the PROP (in which case they shouldn't be there if the 'real' blaster is being depicted)? Or are they part of the ''ACTUAL' gun (in which case they should be there)?
Anybody know what's considered 'canon'?
)! All I have to do is finish up the receiver front detail, sort the fixings for the removable butt plate for battery access, and add a few details. Then I can close it up, fill and finish, and break out the airbrush! But, speaking of details, I have a quandary. White wires? Or no white wires? The original blaster has those two (three?) white wires on the 'sight' side, just in front of the cylinder. Are those part of the PROP (in which case they shouldn't be there if the 'real' blaster is being depicted)? Or are they part of the ''ACTUAL' gun (in which case they should be there)?
Anybody know what's considered 'canon'?
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Donovani
Active Member
Nice work! I ummed and ahhed about it, and decided against. I even specially bought the wires with the intention of doing it, however, decided that I wanted to try and emulate the 'factory freshness' of the Tomenosuke. If I ever get another one (ha ha), I'll try and emulate the prop/Worldcon... Rust and everything..
I have a blue coming from a very gracious RPF member as I missed my payment to HLJ while I had heart attack last month. I also will have an Amber coming from 829Japan in a few weeks. I plan on doing a Deckard hero and an all black police version. Both with full lighting. I may change the light colors on the police version just to be different.
RPF members are awesome.
RPF members are awesome.
Are those part of the PROP (in which case they shouldn't be there if the 'real' blaster is being depicted)? Or are they part of the ''ACTUAL' gun (in which case they should be there)?
Anybody know what's considered 'canon'?
The cut white wires are visible in the film. They can be seen in the scene where Deckard is stalking Roy along the wet wall, before his hand is broken.
Keep in mind two blasters were used in this scene, one was a rubber stunt (no wires on that one)
Hovito loincloth
Well-Known Member
"A water cancer water gun made of full cock polystyrene"
Gotta love Japanese webstore translations.
Gotta love Japanese webstore translations.
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829Japan
New Member
Quick message to inform that I am not taking more orders until further notice. I received much more requests that I anticipated and bought all the guns I could on Amazon.jp already. The remaining sellers don't accept my payment method and I can't order from them unfortunately.
I'll focus on finalizing the requests I received already and let you know if I am able to help again.
Seems like there is a pretty cool community around here
I'll focus on finalizing the requests I received already and let you know if I am able to help again.
Seems like there is a pretty cool community around here
wayouteast
Sr Member
Hmmm. So I guess that makes them 'canon' then. Thanks. That inclines me to adding them. Especially as I plan to paint the blaster to be a sort of 'halfway house' between the clean 'out of the box' look of the original 1981 prop and the quite heavily weathered 2001 re-appearance (which I actually quite like as it suggests a real 'history'). Maybe I can work out a way of them being removal if I change my mind... hopefully slightly more gracefully than just cutting them as per the real ones!
TheMonSSter
New Member
Fettbat
Well-Known Member
Thanks, and yea no problem! So it's a work in progress right now (and photographs -a lot- better than it looks) but the process so far has been.
An undercoat of metallic silver
Two coats of Krylon BBQ black
Then buff and polish the black, I've been using "Mother" automotive polish that's meant for cleaning the inside of headlights because it's fairly abrasive and kind of mixes the coats together it seems (just need to be careful because it -will- strip the paint all the way down to the plastic). Did this a couple of times to make the shine consistent.
After than a reallllly fine sanding job. (I used a 1200 wet sand like dmpsk8 did)
Then I painted a mixture of the metallic silver and BBQ black with a brush. Then repeated the polishing method.
Oh! and between stages a reallly really light and location specific dry brush of gold. I just used gold sharpie on a mircofiber cloth
I'm going to try a methods of getting the lights to work that "in theory" should work without separating the clam shell. That being said, I think things should work "in theory" all the time and oh how they rarely do.
An undercoat of metallic silver
Two coats of Krylon BBQ black
Then buff and polish the black, I've been using "Mother" automotive polish that's meant for cleaning the inside of headlights because it's fairly abrasive and kind of mixes the coats together it seems (just need to be careful because it -will- strip the paint all the way down to the plastic). Did this a couple of times to make the shine consistent.
After than a reallllly fine sanding job. (I used a 1200 wet sand like dmpsk8 did)
Then I painted a mixture of the metallic silver and BBQ black with a brush. Then repeated the polishing method.
Oh! and between stages a reallly really light and location specific dry brush of gold. I just used gold sharpie on a mircofiber cloth
I'm going to try a methods of getting the lights to work that "in theory" should work without separating the clam shell. That being said, I think things should work "in theory" all the time and oh how they rarely do.
Sam Lowry
Well-Known Member
My painted version arrived from HLJ today. I assumed it would be in a plastic bag like the regular version. Imagine my surprise when I saw it in a sturdy box with foam insert! There's even a cutout for the orange tip LOL.
Nowhere near the caliber of paint jobs you guys have been achieving (and obviously not film accurate) but still cool nonetheless. Especially for someone with absolutely no paint skills
Nowhere near the caliber of paint jobs you guys have been achieving (and obviously not film accurate) but still cool nonetheless. Especially for someone with absolutely no paint skills
Woah, didn't even know there was a painted version.
Thats cool :thumbsup
Thats cool :thumbsup
