Cargo Ship Build

[norscout]

Looks good You could buy a special bit that could sand those 2 holes and make them smoother and more interesting in terms of shape

View attachment 1726372

Good idea! I was wondering how I can effectively sand them without wallowing out the hole on the surface sheet.
I had planned to drill all the way and inset tubes. But I kinda liked the look of the countersunk holes in the wood under the drilled surface sheet, so I left them. A sub layer of .06 plastic would've worked better for the countersink, but It's already glued up.
I have some of these bits with my Dremel. I don't want to see any signs of wood grain. I'll try your suggestion. Thanks!

 

[srspicer]

I would also suggest you start to move away from using wood as a sub-structure. It will make everything you create unnecessarily heavy.
You should start using styrene bracing behind the walls. That is what I do. You will need to invest a good quality, accurate machinists square. I have 3" and a 6" sizes.
When I added the hull extensions to the Betty model, I used this method. The image shows four triangular walls with pencil marks on them Those pencil marks indicate the 90º sides that get glued to the walls you are supporting. I use the machinists'squares to check for square when I sand the walls. The other nice thing is, those support walls do not have to perfectly aligned to the main walls, they can be slightly out of square. Look at the image closely and you will see what I mean without Lehigh-jacking the build. Get good quality, not Grizzly or Micro Mark, but Starrett or Mitotoyu.
( Those are welded .125"/3mm walls, super sturdy )

 

[norscout]

I would also suggest you start to move away from using wood as a sub-structure. It will make everything you create unnecessarily heavy.
You should start using styrene bracing behind the walls. That is what I do. You will need to invest a good quality, accurate machinists square. I have 3" and a 6" sizes.
When I added the hull extensions to the Betty model, I used this method. The image shows four triangular walls with pencil marks on them Those pencil marks indicate the 90º sides that get glued to the walls you are supporting. I use the machinists'squares to check for square when I sand the walls. The other nice thing is, those support walls do not have to perfectly aligned to the main walls, they can be slightly out of square. Look at the image closely and you will see what I mean without Lehigh-jacking the build. Get good quality, not Grizzly or Micro Mark, but Starrett or Mitotoyu.
( Those are welded .125"/3mm walls, super sturdy )

Your Betty model looks interesting. I'll look for a build thread on your profile & check it out.
Thx for the tip on Starrett & Mitutoyo. I need smaller lightweight squares for miniatures.

This wood frame cargo ship will weigh about 4.5 or 5 pounds. I like building with all styrene and acrylic flat sheet also. I tend to use whatever I have available, when I have time to build. This cargo ship was a bit of an impulse build partially inspired by a full bin of scrap wood in my shop.

My last scratch build ship was all styrene, with lots of octagon bulkheads to blade cut. I wanted to try solid wood core on this one. With this ship design it was faster to get the sub-structure done with less bulkheads to cut, square & align, which allowed me to get to surfacing sooner.

 

[joberg]

Your Betty model looks interesting. I'll look for a build thread on your profile & check it out.
Thx for the tip on Starrett & Mitutoyo. I need smaller lightweight squares for miniatures.

This wood frame cargo ship will weigh about 4.5 or 5 pounds. I like building with all styrene and acrylic flat sheet also. I tend to use whatever I have available, when I have time to build. This cargo ship was a bit of an impulse build partially inspired by a full bin of scrap wood in my shop.

My last scratch build ship was all styrene, with lots of octagon bulkheads to blade cut. I wanted to try solid wood core on this one. With this ship design it was faster to get the sub-structure done with less bulkheads to cut, square & align, which allowed me to get to surfacing sooner.

Yep, other types of wood/composite are a little lighter than the wood you're using now. I could understand if the model was exposed to big studio lighting over extended periods of time...but I think that will not be the case.

 

[norscout]

Finished one of the Thruster Blocks.

Approx. size is roughly 4" x 3" x 2".

I've been busy working on finishing another model. Will get back to this cargo ship soon. Making this completely by hand is a bit more tedious and time consuming than I'd prefer. These angled blocks tested my patience a bit .
Can anyone suggest how long it would take to 3D Print, clean & cure one of these Thruster Blocks in resin? Just a good general estimate?

 

[norscout]

Think sewing feet could support that?

I always thought that sewing feet would be perfect landing skids.

Some charger blocks have flip-out plugs they could be attached to.

When I saw images of John's T-6 model today I immediately thought of your comment
It does remind me of a sewing foot, minus the big pivot pin. I wonder if any models have actually used them for landing skids.

 

[joberg]

Depending on the scale of course...But they're pretty much the same size across the industry

 

[publiusr]

Just disguise it with some tank treads to either side.
And/or skis…

 

[dynasoar62]

I like the way you build very sturdy. Fantastic work