Solo’s Blaster/Carbine

Fantastic! Forgive me if you've already mentioned this but how is the flash hider attached?
Also the fact that these are just off the printer blows my mind. That Bambu is something else.
 
chubsANDdoggers said:
TerranCmdr this one is a press fit. I’ve toyed with the idea of a threading attachment but the press fit holds tight and works for now.
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Good deal. I have a forgotten DL44 on my workbench I've been meaning to finish off and I had planned to do the same thing you've done with an all orange flash hider. I printed mine threaded and it worked out nicely. Happy to share the files if they help.
 
Those are very nice indeed! A handful of print artifacts, the most noticeable of which is the ringing in the main frame, but all in all that looks very, very good. A testament to your designs in being able to get objects that were originally milled onto the print bed so cleanly.

TerranCmdr one of the secret truths of 3d printed stuff is that, so long as you have an accurate printer, you don't really notice the layer lines and so on if it's just raw plastic. Alas, as soon as you hit it with any kind of paint the ridge-and-valley effect becomes very obvious. But left unpainted, they look smoother than they actually are.
 
Thanks Vagabond Elf. Not bad for a guy who’s new to 3d printing huh?! Lot of trial and error but once you start to understand what it is you trying to accomplish things definitely do get much easier. Maintaining strength and reducing supports has been my biggest obstacle I would say. There’s a few parts that I had to simply put my hands up and walk away but for the most part this printer is worth it’s weight in Gold!

Vagabond Elf said:
TerranCmdr one of the secret truths of 3d printed stuff is that, so long as you have an accurate printer, you don't really notice the layer lines and so on if it's just raw plastic. Alas, as soon as you hit it with any kind of paint the ridge-and-valley effect becomes very obvious. But left unpainted, they look smoother than they actually are.
Click to expand...

This actually has been something I’ve been meaning to test. So let’s try it and see what happens?? Now I do print all my designs at a 0.12mm layer height so they come out pretty smooth already to the naked eye.

So for this test I used a couple grenade prints from my Obi Wan saber build. I quickly & simply sprayed down one side with only one coat of krylon white spray paint. No sanding or anything and again just one coat. Let it dry to touch and snapped these pictures..
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I’ve seen machined parts that look worse than this. Again these new Bambu Lab printers are simply crazy impressive.
 
That does look really nice. And what Vagabond Elf said is certainly true, but if you're heavy handed with multiple coats it can actually fill in some of those ridges. There's also resin smoothing if you're interested in going the route of finishing and painting. But honestly the prints look so good as is, it's almost better to leave them raw as a testament to what a good printer and excellent modeling can do. I mean come on, look at those overhangs!
 
TerranCmdr said:
That does look really nice. And what Vagabond Elf said is certainly true, but if you're heavy handed with multiple coats it can actually fill in some of those ridges. There's also resin smoothing if you're interested in going the route of finishing and painting. But honestly the prints look so good as is, it's almost better to leave them raw as a testament to what a good printer and excellent modeling can do. I mean come on, look at those overhangs!
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Oh ya for sure. You can smooth out pretty much any prints off any printer using a proper primer of course! I was simply curious how these prints would look with only one coat of paint as Vagabond Elf mentioned “ridge-and-valley effect becomes very obvious.” He knows his stuff and before I tested it I was hesitant to think any different myself.

I’ve only been using this FDM BL printer so I can’t speak to any other printer but the quality is clearly obvious. Truth is I did have an FDM for an hot minute years ago but didn’t like it. You add an AMS unit to this P1S and honestly you can do all the weathering within the print itself. The scope and mount here is all done using silk gold, silk silver and tough black PLA’s. You can add white paint to the numbers on the scope to make pop if desired. You could also do that within the AMS BUT it would take forever and u’d be wasting a LOT of filament in the process because of its location.
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I actually had a resin printer (Saturn 2) but sold it once I got this P1S to be honest. It’s nice not to have any real clean up outside of removing supports. Look at this print for example. All these parts loaded on the print bed. It’s all with manual placed supports and each part has been redesigned and orientated to print for strength. Now once you get things dialed in you simply hit print and walk away. Only print failures I’ve had have been user error. I know you are familiar with printing so I’m sure you understand this but for anyone who happens to read this understand there is trial and error to get here. But once here it’s pretty seamless. *Knock on wood!
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chubsANDdoggers said:
Thanks Vagabond Elf. Not bad for a guy who’s new to 3d printing huh?! Lot of trial and error but once you start to understand what it is you trying to accomplish things definitely do get much easier. Maintaining strength and reducing supports has been my biggest obstacle I would say. There’s a few parts that I had to simply put my hands up and walk away but for the most part this printer is worth it’s weight in Gold!



This actually has been something I’ve been meaning to test. So let’s try it and see what happens?? Now I do print all my designs at a 0.12mm layer height so they come out pretty smooth already to the naked eye.

So for this test I used a couple grenade prints from my Obi Wan saber build. I quickly & simply sprayed down one side with only one coat of krylon white spray paint. No sanding or anything and again just one coat. Let it dry to touch and snapped these pictures..View attachment 1755092View attachment 1755097View attachment 1755094

I’ve seen machined parts that look worse than this. Again these new Bambu Lab printers are simply crazy impressive.
Click to expand...

I hear what you're saying about machine markings... but I'll also argue that the print lines in that last short *are* very obvious, whereas they are nearly invisible in the pre-painted images.

I also agree about the precision of the X1 motion system. I do think we need to pause and acknowledge that much of the precision is realyl from Prusa's software engineers - the quality of the slicing makes a massive difference to the final result, and BambuSlicer is built on PrusaSlicer. But the high-end slicer coupled with the highly accurate motion system does make for very, very good accuracy. I've any number of things that I haven't bothered to sand and finish because it won't matter. And even on my R5-D4 build, where I do sand things down, something that would have been over an hour of sanding if I'd pulled it off the Ender-5 is down to 15 to 20 minutes from my X1C.

Do you need to spend a bunch of time sanding and filling your parts? Of course not. If you're happy with the result straight off the printer, then hooray! My point was merely that the 3D Printed origin of things produced on an X1/P1 will become much easier to see once it's painted. That's neither good nor bad, however - it is a decision made on aesthetic and practical grounds, and whatever works best for you is the right choice. Me, I'm just happy to see that my suggestions managed to make another person happier. :)
 
Well said Vagabond Elf. I was myself was interested to simply see what these prints would look like with just one coat of paint. It’s obviously very subjective so I’ll let who ever passes through make up their own mind. What is clear is with every passing day this technology is moving forward in a very positive way. I still wish I splurged for the X1. Just saw a feature that’s on it that isn’t on the P1 series. Ur able to pause prints mid way (spaghetti detection on the X1 will pause it for you I believe) and if there are any failed prints you can delete them mid print instead of starting everything over. That’s a damn good feature I hope somehow makes it way to the P1 series.
 
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