Building The Death Star - PRODUCTION

[PHArchivist]

OK tell me how this happens? This is a close up of the long, characteristic scar to the right of the dish that is now on the model.

Look at the line, or seam, that runs right through the top of the blemish...

Random thought for the day: Its fascinating looking back on the learning of this model.

This post, from January, represented a bit of a mystery about the surface that has since been resolved. The "seam" I described is partly what made me wonder if there was anything applied to the surface, and wonder in general what was going on.

Since then I/we have concluded that there were etched or scribed lines of latitude on the model, which explains this seam and how the scar extends above and below while the painted seam goes right on through.

 

[Dyonisis]

Don't forget curvature and compromise.

Unless my camera is pointing straight on the block, it will appear more narrow than it really is. In the shot of the original in my last post, the camera is focused on blocks 1 & 2; the 5th block is curving away.

Though I agree - it is too wide. But that was partly de to compromise.

Narrowing down the 3rd and 4th blocks increased the gap to the right of the 4th block. So I have to compensate by filling this gap (which is technically a bit closer to the main focal point of the model that block 5) by widening block 5.

I understand that,but even with the curvature - it's still too wide. This will be something that is very noticable to everyone including you. As I said before,if you're going to change it - NOW would be the opportune time! This way, you won't say "Damn! I wish I changed that then!"

Otherwise,this can throw off the scale of all the other panels when you're trying to get the symmetry,and proportion correct to what you've already painted. I know that what you're is very difficult to achieve,and painting is a Bit+&! But,remember - after this,you don't ever have to do it again! Taking all the above into consideration in your above post,and knowing what you know now, you shouldn't have any trouble masking,and painting everything else once you've established your first row.

 

[modeleers]

A Random & Rambling Reply ("for the day"):
Bob - No Two models are ever Alike. And there's a chance that Your Death Star will turn-out Better than the original. The original was made in a few short months to accommodate a tight film-schedule.
You've been working on your DS longer than that & your DS has the potential to be the Better model & Remain in better condition.
Then again, there's always the outside-chance that your work will be Viewed as Accurate to the Original.

For 25+ years - Disney-Nautilus models have details MisShaped, Moved elsewhere, Changed or Missing all together. This was mostly due in-part to lack of references & insufficient research.
Over the years, questionable 'accuracies' have Evolved - into a cycle of repetition that results in - how modelers & fans actually & in-accurately See - this Iconic Vehicle.
Just One Example:
The Outside of the Salon Window's Iris was Never seen in the Disney film or rendered in the Disney Plans, yet modelers readily accept that the Outside of the Iris should look the same as the Inside.
This is because, since 1983, a 'master modeler' decided to make & sell his Nautilus-models that way. This mistake has been repeated & replicated so many times - that it is now accepted into the annals of model-making - as 'accurate'.
"A lie told often enough becomes truth" Vladimir Lenin.

No one (even Disney) seems to notice or care about this in-accuracy.
Proof: Disney-Licensed Nautilus models featuring Inside-Out Irises are now common-place & being sold (& believed) as "Film-Accurate" Replicas!
Since then, pictures from a 20K deleted-scene 'prove' that the Inside-Out Iris (as-is) is Not-Accurate.
The One exception is the 50th Anniv. Nautilus (released in 2004) - it has no Iris.

My point is - Do the Best you can (now), ...some may see your DS model as Film-Accurate. Then again, Others might welcome slight Improvements & perceive your DS as having the potential to be - Better than the original.
I know I Do!

 

[vaderdarth]

Rob, I think once the next row gets done, it won't bother you even a little.

 

[Jedi Dade]

one thing is certain about this DS vs. the original. More time and effort went into getting it "just right" then in the original...

Jedi Dade

 

[MsngPcs]

one thing is certain about this DS vs. the original. More time and effort went into getting it "just right" then in the original...

Jedi Dade

Agreed!

 

[micdavis]

Replicas are ALWAYS harder than building something for the first time. The original is right from the get go. It can't NOT be.

 

[modeleers]

And though this is Studio Scale, Bob hasn't the luxury to use a single found kit-part (to aid in judging the proper sizes & locations), Making it doubley hard to calculate & segment the surface details.

 

[vaderdarth]

Exactly, it's not like there are a set of templates for the panels and dish out there. He's pulling on something that is darn near impossible to re-create from scratch. And doing it nicely I might add.

Dave

And though this is Studio Scale, Bob hasn't the luxury to use a single found kit-part (to aid in judging the proper sizes & locations), Making it doubley hard to calculate & segment the surface details.

 

[Jedifyfe]

I just got home from Rob's house. We did the next row up and wait until you guys see the pics!!! We knocked it out of the park on this row. Yes, Rob will have to go back and re paint the bottom row BUT man it will looks soooo sweet when done!

Go ahead my friend, bring on the pics!

Brad

 

[PHArchivist]

Stand by, stay on target...

 

[Jedifyfe]

Saweeeet!


Brad

 

[PHArchivist]

All right guys,

Yup - Brad made it down by 10:45, and by 11:15 or 11:30 we were steadfast and working diligently.

Note in the first pic our first "order of business" was to redo the shape and size of a few critical blocks on the first row. Though we haven't put the "T" back in, note block 5 has been adjusted, as well as the two or three blocks following it.

We considered re-addressing the speckling on the first row, but I made the call to move on the the second row, finish it as planned, then reassess the first one later. As it turns our, Brad was right on in that the first will need to be re-painted.

But I digress...

On the next row up (the middle row), we spent most of the time masking (isn't that always the case?). It worked well have a second set of hands, but more so a second set of eyes, and another brain on the job. We sort of spotted each other's work to ensure all the geometry was spot on.

In the 11th hour, we got to paint flecking. Many will be pleased to hear there was NO DARKER BASE COAT applied to the blocks of the middle row. We worked together spritzing on thinned paint with tooth-brushes, each starting at one end, and sort of crossing paths and moving to the opposite end of the row. I believe I once read that at ILM, when doing th stars, they had multiple folks on it so as not to get a particular style or pattern. Same applies here.

There are two blocks that have a denser specklign, plus more white. This is per the reference. See if you can tell which ones.

Once we were pretty much done, I suggested one more pass with the black. I wish I had not, because at this point, the black is slightly more "rich" than on the original. Fading of the original? Maybe. But we'll never really know.

Brad, I will most likely go back in and spritz on that grey I have that is between the base grey and the white, just to tone down the black a bit. And I may paint out the top 10% of the largest black dots.

It was an awesome day, and productive. Though we just got one band done, its a solid step forward. And it IS a time consuming process. Hopefully we'll have another work session soon, and a hole drilling party later!

 

[Jedifyfe]

Great recap Rob. Though yes, I wish we would have repainted the first row after reworking it, I think that it will be easy to do now that you have a new point of reference for the speckle pattern.

I truly wish I could have stayed longer or were able to come back tomorrow. I think We set the standard for the paint pattern and Rob ahould be able to redo the first row.

I will work on getting back down there my friend.

Brad

 

[PHArchivist]

one thing is certain about this DS vs. the original. More time and effort went into getting it "just right" then in the original...

Jedi Dade

Exactly, it's not like there are a set of templates for the panels and dish out there. He's pulling on something that is darn near impossible to re-create from scratch. And doing it nicely I might add.

And though this is Studio Scale, Bob hasn't the luxury to use a single found kit-part (to aid in judging the proper sizes & locations), Making it doubley hard to calculate & segment the surface details.

Funny you mentioned that. Today, Brad and I chatted about just that.

I'd commented that - for the moment, imagine you or I had unlimited and direct access to the original. IMAGINE the time it would take to take precise meaurments of each and every block. Incluidng all the elements within each block (like the "T"). You'd be measuring for HOURS, and your date sheet would be monsterous (sic). THEN imagine translating all that onto a replica ball.

Hurts my head...

 

[PHArchivist]

Great recap Rob. Though yes, I wish we would have repainted the first row after reworking it, I think that it will be easy to do now that you have a new point of reference for the speckle pattern.

I truly wish I could have stayed longer or were able to come back tomorrow. I think We set the standard for the paint pattern and Rob ahould be able to redo the first row.

I will work on getting back down there my friend.

Brad

Cool!

Yeah the first rowing is bugging me now. But as we talked about, re-masking is quick and easy work, AND like you said; we nailed the application process, so it should go quick.

Tonight is one of the first nights I'm going to be hitting the sack looking forward to getting up to work on this (got the giddy feeling, since now I know which direction I'm going).

As mentioned, I'll start off tomorrow correcting a few panels of the first row. And like we tested, Brad, with the dusting of the Tamiya base, I'll test with flicking that other light grey.

Depending on results, I may add that light grey to the middle band (only if it is s subtle effect), and I'll complete that last 10% of blocks going around toward the back.

Then its on to the top row!

 

[Jedi Dade]

Second row is MUCH better then the first although I'd still suggest a little more white and some of the black speckling seems too large, if yo ucan finagle a way to make the speckle mor efine I tihnk that you'll be better off.

That is not to say that the results you have are not fantastic! They are. It looks really great! :thumbsup

Jedi Dade

 

[PHArchivist]

Second row is MUCH better then the first although I'd still suggest a little more white and some of the black speckling seems too large, if yo ucan finagle a way to make the speckle mor efine I tihnk that you'll be better off.

Yup...

I will most likely go back in and spritz on that grey I have that is between the base grey and the white, just to tone down the black a bit. And I may paint out the top 10% of the largest black dots.

 

[PHArchivist]

Here's a fun look - same area, mine versus original, though different angles. Currently mine does look like the black is slightly too heavy/rich and, as mentioned, I have a couple approaches to mitigating this.

By the way, Brad and I did a test on the last block of the row by dusting it with the main light grey base. It worked, sort of. It toned down the black appropriately, but the funny thing was that when the block was around the curve, it virtually disappeared.

Another critical question is fading, and flash wash. For one of these reasons (or both) in my photos of the original, most of the pencil markings on the original do not show up, Thare are MANY that do not show in photos. This has to be due to either physical fading of the markings, or that they've been washed out by the flash.

If either of these two dynamics can occur with the pencil markings, would these same dynamics not play at the finer of the black speckles? So is what we're seeing on the original - for one reason or another - washed out a bit?

 

[modeleers]

I like em all! The More (sections painted) the Merrier! (IMO: the more sections you do should dictate - exactly what is needed to accomplish the DS' Look.)