Building The Death Star - PRODUCTION

Regarding the upper pole area...

In the first pic, it looks too dark, but in the second pic it looks much more in line with the "Muren Blue Screen Light Reading" shot.

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DS005.jpg
 
Hi Bob! How you holding-up?
Man oh man! You are a Saint to read, consider & reply to all of Us back-seat advisers.
(who comment from galaxies far, far away)
But in the end, I would like to paraphrase the 'King'... Burger King (that is) -
"Add more background! / Hold the speckles!
It's your Death Star!!! Please don't Kill us!
In the end we know that you will -
Paint it Your Way!"

Everybody Sing!!!:lol
"Paint it your way. Paint it your way."

She's Looking Great, my Friend!
 
Just so everyone is clear about the possibility of "misting the darker areas with the base coat".

Rob and I did this as a test on one of the second row squares and though it looked great from straight on, if you viewed the same square from any angle the misting caused the square to almost dissapear from view. This was caused by the black speckled paint being covered by the base coat, therefore reducing the reflective nature of the black paint. I hope this isn't too confusing.

That being said, I think that misting the arctic circle will be okay since no black paint has been speckled.

Rob, I do see a difference in your 2 shots of the arctic circle but I think you should mist it to look even lighter.

Brad
 
Rob, I do see a difference in your 2 shots of the arctic circle but I think you should mist it to look even lighter.

I agree. And as we discovered, very small amounts of paint, and a light touch help produce the fine misting, which should do the trick.
 
May be just the angle but the clear area (without the shading showing just the base coat) between the pole area and the concentrated area below looks narrower on the original DS. What you have done still looks grand!! I am curious how hard it will be to do the windows in the trench area.


Will
 
the clear area (without the shading showing just the base coat) between the pole area and the concentrated area below looks narrower on the original DS.

OK two of you guys have said this now.

Are you guys accounting for the fact that there two separate widths of this blank area, and the Muren shot shows more of the narrow width, and my shots show more of the wider widths?

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OK two of you guys have said this now.

Are you guys accounting for the fact that there two separate widths of this blank area, and the Muren shot shows more of the narrow width, and my shots show more of the wider widths?

I've spent the last half hour studying, measuring, and referencing other pics. Initially, I thought that yes, it is just a tick too wide. But after that half hour, I think it boils down to the simple fact that the pole is too dark, and once it's lightened up it will look fantastic.
Actually fantastic is too weak a word. This build is INCREDIBLY AWESOME.
 
I've spent the last half hour studying, measuring, and referencing other pics. Initially, I thought that yes, it is just a tick too wide. But after that half hour, I think it boils down to the simple fact that the pole is too dark, and once it's lightened up it will look fantastic.
Actually fantastic is too weak a word. This build is INCREDIBLY AWESOME.


Its a tough call.

I think it may in fact be a tad too wide, but the operative question is "Is it far enough off to correct?".

Correcting would entail doing the mental gymnastics (again, and with nothing to go on but photographs) to determine if I should increase the Arctic Circle, or increase the upper row of blocks, or both. Then grafting on additional speckling, or grey of the Circle (or both), and introducing further marging for error (effing up).

There will be numerous discrepancies to the trained eyes we have here (for instance the dark trapezoids in the Circle don't align with the same landmarks in the upper row of blocks as on the original) that I will either have to accept as compromise, or double my time by correcting either as I go or later.

Botom line on the Circle is this: I'm not even going to think about it until later. I want to keep moving on with the main pattern of blocks.
 
Correcting would entail doing the mental gymnastics (again, and with nothing to go on but photographs) to determine if I should increase the Arctic Circle, or increase the upper row of blocks, or both. Then grafting on additional speckling, or grey of the Circle (or both), and introducing further marging for error (effing up).

You know what - I CAN'T increase the diameter of the Arctic Circle, because of the radials. I really don't want to get involved in grafting on additional length, or redoing them entirely (though they are too heaby in gauge).

So those of you pondering the upper blank band, I'd ask that you consider if it is a matter of the upper row being too short. I can make that row taller, but that's it.
 
I sent you some photos today Rob. I think it's the arctic circle and not the row below it. I sent you some other photos too. :)
 
I sent you some photos today Rob. I think it's the arctic circle and not the row below it. I sent you some other photos too. :)

I'm flipping back and forth too, and I think yoiu're right...;?

To the degree that I'm thinking, well - it can't be TOO hard to add length to the radials, can it?
 
I imagine all the work you did fixing the bulging problems at the trench was worse than what you'd have to do to lengthen the radials.
 
Here's a quick and dirty test of the vinyl RC Car pinstriping tape (silver). It conforms to the curve quite nicely, and photographs just like the original - as a dark band. But its silver.

I'll have to draw a more accurate line with my marking tool, and re-apply the full length.

This is - by the way - in preparation of doing the lower dome.

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And here's a shot that duplicates one I took in Seattle, for those looking at the Artic Circle issue.

Frankly, I think I could/should add 2mm - 3mm to the upper row of speckling and add about 5mm to the Circle itself.
The blank band is 60mm, so roughly 8mm - 10mm is still a relatively small percentage.

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