Limited Run BLADE RUNNER 2049: Officer K (Ryan Gosling) Jacket/Coat - NOW SELLING

Hmm. My little piece of fabric that I used the otter wax on does have a shine too it - not quite to the extent of those barbour jackets, obviously - those are probably a different material (like Smith said), and properly pre-waxed before jacket construction. still, there is a bit of a shine to how I used the otter wax.

MAJSmith, do you think maybe there's less of a shine because you used the hot Iron? I only used the hand craft heater, which maybe didn't fully melt the wax into the fabric so there's a slight glaze on the surface of the material. That's the only difference I can think of but probably a big difference in terms of application.
 
MAJSmith, do you think maybe there's less of a shine because you used the hot Iron? I only used the hand craft heater, which maybe didn't fully melt the wax into the fabric so there's a slight glaze on the surface of the material. That's the only difference I can think of but probably a big difference in terms of application.

You know, I never thought of that. It's definitely possible. I thought the hair dryer method was drying the wax too quickly before it had time to even out, so I switched to the iron. There are some websites that claim you can press waxed canvas with a dry iron on a medium setting to get out wrinkles, but it doesn't mention anything about dulling the luster. Now I'm curious. I'll pick up a craft heater or heat gun today and do some testing. I would like it to have more of a shine to it.

From Red Rabbit Mercantile:

2) Pressing Waxed Canvas: Generally, we do not recommend ironing waxed canvas because the wax and oil will melt onto other fabrics as well as your work surface. Instead, use a bone folder or the edge of your scissors to create a nice, sharp crease. If you must iron waxed canvas, use a medium setting and a protective pressing cloth. You can use the heat of your iron to remove unwanted creases, wrinkles or (gulp!) mistakes.
 
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So… After another ½ a bar of Otter Wax and a heat gun, I’m no closer to the luster of the movie. Using the heat gun, I heated the coat and the wax and lathered on a good soft layer before drying it with the heat gun again. There is some shine on the areas with a bit too much wax buildup, but to achieve that over the whole coat would take an immense amount of wax and probably not hold up that well over time. Right now my coat has 1 ½ XL bars of Otter Wax on it and is very dark and extremely stiff (It’s close to standing up on its own.) I ran the whole thing under the heat gun again this morning to even out the white spots and I’ll let it cure tonight. It still looks great, just lacks the overall shine.
 
So… After another ½ a bar of Otter Wax and a heat gun, I’m no closer to the luster of the movie. Using the heat gun, I heated the coat and the wax and lathered on a good soft layer before drying it with the heat gun again. There is some shine on the areas with a bit too much wax buildup, but to achieve that over the whole coat would take an immense amount of wax and probably not hold up that well over time. Right now my coat has 1 ½ XL bars of Otter Wax on it and is very dark and extremely stiff (It’s close to standing up on its own.) I ran the whole thing under the heat gun again this morning to even out the white spots and I’ll let it cure tonight. It still looks great, just lacks the overall shine.
Did you try a layer of weather proofing?

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After adding wax, maybe try buffing it with something hard and smooth, like the back of a spoon?
 
After adding wax, maybe try buffing it with something hard and smooth, like the back of a spoon?

Ha! I never thought of that. I’ll try it tonight.

Didn’t work so well. I’ll research it tomorrow and come up with an answer.
 
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I never heard that. I’ll check it out.
Makes Sense because it is a cotton waxed coat and he is in the rain and in snow Article is for a miniature scale but they talked to the movie Production team
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Quick question: Would it be possible to mix Phthalo Green acrylic paint with a textile medium and then mix them both into Otter Wax liquid Fabric Dressing to use as a "tint" to the wax? I'm thinking if I can tint the liquid wax to a Phthalo Green, then brush it on the coat, it'll achieve the shiny green look I'm after.

After some research, I think I'll mix Phthalo Green (Blue Shade) wax into the Otter Wax, "paint" it onto the canvas, and then buff it out with something smooth.
 
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Quick question: Would it be possible to mix Phthalo Green acrylic paint with a textile medium and then mix them both into Otter Wax liquid Fabric Dressing to use as a "tint" to the wax? I'm thinking if I can tint the liquid wax to a Phthalo Green, then brush it on the coat, it'll achieve the shiny green look I'm after.

After some research, I think I'll mix Phthalo Green (Blue Shade) wax into the Otter Wax, "paint" it onto the canvas, and then buff it out with something smooth.

0_0 interesting. keep me updated.
 
I've being some research. Laminated cotton is maked adding a film of vinyl with Iron to the fabric. This is possible but hardly plausible because it have to be done before to make the cloth. First the patterns pieces and then the film. You can paint it before aply the film. This process is used to make bags, courtains, etc.
In a finished cloth the only way to do it is aplying the vinyl in a liquid form.
Also látex is used in This process.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Coating-Fabric-with-Liquid-Latex/
I hope This could be helpful, and maybe somebody have the skills to do it. If Zlurpo send me the scraps I'll be the first to try it.
I do not feel satisfied with the wax (I already waxed one coat. Two times) and I'm obsessed to get a smoother and shinier finish.
I'm not going to stop trying.;)
 
The only problem you're going to have with latex and possibly vinyl (which is acrylic) is they are not UV resistant which means they will crack eventually and so will the fabric. Latex is especially prone to ageing and cracking as it becomes brittle over time. .. its not a good option if you want your jacket to survive long term. this is back to the issue of the difference between a costume or a garment. if you want a costume short term it will work but if you want a garment that will last then you may want to avoid them.

The pursuit of the ultimate 'screen accurate look' is a rabbit hole many have disappeared down over the years including myself .... in the end its what makes you happy. I have a good friend who deals in props and costumes in the UK and he spends a lot of his time taking latex props to restorers just to get them stabilised ... not repaired as you cant.

best of luck either way ... your jacket still looks cool
 
Saw an interesting article yesterday online about a fabric primer and sealer called FAB ..... it comes in clear or grey i believe ... no idea if its any good but it might be something that would work longer term at least as a base coat for those that dont want to go the wax route .. ?
 
Saw an interesting article yesterday online about a fabric primer and sealer called FAB ..... it comes in clear or grey i believe ... no idea if its any good but it might be something that would work longer term at least as a base coat for those that dont want to go the wax route .. ?

Similar to this, I'm wondering how well a sealer/primer for art canvases would work. Especially as it's designed to work on a canvas- type material (all be it a stretched/tightened one)

https://www.pegasusart.co.uk/spectrum-clear-acrylic-canvas-sealer-transparent-primer.ir
 

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