Best Way to Mold This Skull?????

Discussion in 'Sculpture and Makeup Effects' started by avbat, Apr 22, 2012.

  1. avbat

    avbat Active Member

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    Hey all, I recently posted about a venture into sculpting for a class I am taking. That looks like it isn't going to happen, so my professor gave me the option of making a mold of, and making casts of an existing object.

    So I decided to use this model skull. It does have a forehead seam that I want to fill in. I want it to look like a real skull.

    My question is what is the best way to mold this? I want this to be a fully detailed mold, and was planning on using silicone, with some sort of jacket, but I am not 100% sure; thats why I am asking.

    I am obviously doing at least a separate mold for the lower jaw and another for the upper portion of the skull. Should I do two others for the two sets of theeth? Any help would be great thanks all!


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  2. avbat

    avbat Active Member

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    Anyone there ?
     
  3. Leigh

    Leigh Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I'm no expert & I have nearly no real experience, but if you handed me that skull & asked me to make a mould so that it can be re-cast in resin I would probably start by filling in all the holes with plasticine & then build partitions.

    The skull looks to have some pretty big undercuts so I'd probably build the main skull mould in 3 to 4 sections using partitions. I'd build the partitions with plasticine & use a brush-on silicone with a jacket.

    Like I say I'm no expert but I hope thats of some help to you :)
     
  4. avbat

    avbat Active Member

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    Yea filling of the holes definitely needs to be done.
    I am virtually brand new to this sort of this so I need all sorts of help. Making a partition for me is even an unknown for me
     
  5. ScaleModelTech

    ScaleModelTech New Member

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    Hey,

    If you can remove the lower jaw, that would make it easier. Same for the teeth though it doesn't look like they would really bind the rubber with an undercut.

    For sure you will need to fill any voids where you do not want the rubber to flow.

    If the skull is hollow and you are not worried about it, you could fill the skull with a liquid foam that will then consume the inside volume so if rubber does leak in, it doesn't have a lot of space to fill.
    Otherwise think of water and block any hole where it could flow from the outside surface of the skull, to the inside, like through the eye sockets etc. Use a non-sulfur containing clay as sulfur will react against curing in most silicones.

    If you like give me email at smtemail@telusplanet.net - I can go over a little more detail for you or visit my site at          Scale Model Technologies - Home
     
  6. Mostly Fantasy

    Mostly Fantasy Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I pattern finished a Revell plastic skull and molded it, to make armatures for sculpts. I built a clay wall around each eye socket and the nasal cavity, having filled in the sinus cavities/nerve passages w/clay from the back, and poured each, making a silicone "plug". When those had cured, I did similar for the zygomatic arches. After those set up, I painted release on all existing silicone, and clay parted the head, poured the first half, then the second. The jaw was a separate mold, 2 pieces, parted along the top of the tooth sockets. I molded all teeth together in a third mold to cast them in white, while I cast the skull and jaw in a bone color I mixed up.[​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  7. nick daring

    nick daring Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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