Best Pulse Rifle

[Jedi Lawja]

Now, this is not a top-end PR, but a board member sells both kits and build-ups. I believe the price is around $150 for a BU - but I'm going on a shakey memory. I just got one last week, and it's my first pulse rifle. The Thompson is resin, the spas cage is an injection molded piece, as is the shotgun pump grip. I'm not sure where these pieces are from. The shroud is a fairly thick vacuum form, 1/8" I think. The end result is a light-weight PR that will look nice on my wall, or to carry in costume.

Jay

 

[Riv]

Originally posted by Noeland@Jan 7 2006, 03:05 AM

does mim have anything thats not been recasted?

:lol

everything? :unsure

[snapback]1152810[/snapback]​

Ouch. Hehe

 

[uscmCorps]

I'm a big fan of MatsuCorp myself.

-Alex

 

[Jedi Lawja]

Originally posted by Jedi Lawja@Jan 6 2006, 10:37 PM
Now, this is not a top-end PR, but a board member sells both kits and build-ups.  I believe the price is around $150 for a BU - but I'm going on a shakey memory.  I just got one last week, and it's my first pulse rifle.  The Thompson is resin, the spas cage is an injection molded piece, as is the shotgun pump grip.  I'm not sure where these pieces are from.  The shroud is a fairly thick vacuum form, 1/8" I think.  The end result is a light-weight PR that will look nice on my wall, or to carry in costume. 

Jay

[snapback]1152882[/snapback]​

Here are a few pics I took. OLD dig-cam. 640x480 pixel, max.

​

For the price I'm very happy with my new prop. The magazine base is solid resin and balances nicely when sitting on said base. The magazine well is empty so I plan on putting two 8-segment LED's wired to read '95' in the ammo remaining counter.

Does anyone have pics of a PR magazine?

Jay

 

[Noeland]

Jedi, nice job on that kit.. It looks really nice. Please post some pictures of the mods you do on the ammo counter.

I have a "Wilco" kit I am currently building. It's a tricky damn prop to assemble if you don't have building skills. The shrouds require a lot of cutting and if you cut them wrong, there is no re-do But I do like that Alex's shrouds have thier own look and they do not mimic Icons or SD shrouds.

The best thing about Alex's kit is that it has pretty much never ending modification potential. Second favorite thing is the price.

I am putting a resing casting of a thompson mag on the mag base, and planing to attach it to the resin thompson chamber with some magnets. since theneeded grooves are not part of the casting, I will have to dremel away a certain portion of the resin magazine to make it fit.

I am also going to dremel out the needed vents in the spas cage so it is not so recognizable as a springer cage. Those missing vents bug the hell out of me.

I also got a flame thrower from Alex that I am going to mod out in big ways. The "chamber" of his flame thrower is like a blank canvas.
Njc------------

 

[Gigatron]

For the money, you really can't beat the MiM kit. Their customer service may suck (don't personally know, never dealt with them), but the pulse rifle kit turns out pretty awsome.

I got mine through a board member here a while back and added a metal stock and vent from another RPF run later on.

Here's how the kit turned out (built and painted by yours truly):

Not bad for my first major kit way back when.

Thanks to WC for hosting.

-Fred

 

[zorg]

what is the correct colour for a pulse rifle?

green or brown?


z

 

[BrundelFly]

Its a HUMBROLL BASS BROWN
I forget the number....11? or 17? something like that.
Then take flat black and MIST it from a distance.

HERE is my WHOLE technique.
Oh, I also PAINT my GUNS SLIVER, or ALUMINIM first. I think "dap" liquid latex over them on the edges, and palce that would naturally weather.

Let it all dry.
Spray the gun primer flat black, let it dry.....then the Humbrol....let it dry....then list it.

Once dry rub the latex off and you a realistic look to the gun.

Sure you could dry brush it with SILVER to try and get same effect, and its CLOSE...but this way looks better.


Here is a resin Gun I made with working lights and sound.

Originally posted by zorg@Jan 8 2006, 04:12 PM
what is the correct colour for a pulse rifle?

green or brown?


z

[snapback]1153812[/snapback]​

 

[Jedi Lawja]

Noeland-

Mine is a Wilco. Build-Up. I have a kit also, and I can figure out what goes where with the built PR next to it, but without reference, it would be quite a challenge.

Jay

 

[zorg]

Originally posted by BrundelFly@Jan 8 2006, 04:36 PM
Its a HUMBROLL BASS BROWN
I forget the number....11?  or 17? something like that.
Then take flat black and MIST it from a distance.

HERE is my WHOLE technique.
Oh, I also PAINT my GUNS SLIVER, or ALUMINIM first. I think "dap"  liquid latex over them on the edges, and palce that would naturally weather.

Let it all dry. 
Spray the gun primer flat black, let it dry.....then the Humbrol....let it dry....then list it.

Once dry rub the latex off and you a realistic look to the gun.

Sure you could dry brush it with SILVER to try and get same effect, and its CLOSE...but this way looks better.


Here is a resin Gun I made with working lights and sound.

Originally posted by zorg@Jan 8 2006, 04:12 PM
what is the correct colour for a pulse rifle?

green or brown?


z

[snapback]1153812[/snapback]​

[snapback]1153820[/snapback]​

whats the process you used on the black parts?

z

 

[Gigatron]

Here's how I weathered mine (parts painted before final assembly):

1) Spray parts with grey/black automotive primer, allow to dry for 24 hrs.

2) spray all parts with either Krylon aluminium or steel (whichever you prefer or have access to), allow to dry 48 hrs (longer if you have the time)

3) spray the parts their respective colors (I used Krylon flat black and surplus military OD (from cheaperthandirt.com)), allow to dry for 12 hrs.

4) Assmble the kit

5) use a piece of masking tape and press it down on a section you want to weather. Pull up really fast. It should take pieces of the top coat off and leave the metal undercoat exposed.

6) after you're satisfied with the paint removal, go over the whole thing with a medium scotch-brite pad (like plastic steel wool)

7) mist the entire thing with flat black from a distance of 2' - 3'

And that's it. A lot of work, but well worth it. I like tape method over the latex method because the tape will give very random weathering, sometimes sharp angles, sometimes round pieces. I find it wery hard to get sharp edges with the latex method.

-Fred

 

[eltee]

I'm partial to my SD version (shown here) but for a very nice resin (w/opt. metal parts) I'd choose the Matsucorp version (Matsuo made the caseless ammo for my pulse rifle). My SD weighs a ton whereas having a high end lighter pulse rifle would be a nice alternative. Matt does great work, check out the ammo.

I like racking dummy grenades or dummy 12 guage rounds through the M41 to show how well made it is