Another Pipboy Scratch build
- Thread starter War Poodle
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War Poodle
Member
Thank you. I used a few stills from the game but It's mainly a best fit job.
I'm in the north east. I'm hoping that my Pipboy will make it down to the London mcm at some point.
I'm in the north east. I'm hoping that my Pipboy will make it down to the London mcm at some point.
War Poodle
Member
I've sculpted the logo using sculpey. It's a bit wobbly but i should be able to clean it up one i set it.
At this point though I wish i had a small 3D printer for these sort of things.
At this point though I wish i had a small 3D printer for these sort of things.
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Mowsel
Member
I wonder if you could print out the logo a few times, bondo it up and then go from there to get it looking cleaner. Do you think that might work?
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War Poodle
Member
Not sure what you mean.
I wanted to do this with milliput but I didn't know how lpng it would take and you only have a limited working time with milliput. It's much easier to clean up once it's set though.
But hey hoe it's done now and I don't have the patience to try again.
I wanted to do this with milliput but I didn't know how lpng it would take and you only have a limited working time with milliput. It's much easier to clean up once it's set though.
But hey hoe it's done now and I don't have the patience to try again.
War Poodle
Member
More tiny writing. This time with milliput. It's not perfect but i'm happy with it so far.
As per usual I'll be tidying up the edges with a chisel and some sand paper once it has set.
As per usual I'll be tidying up the edges with a chisel and some sand paper once it has set.
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lovelyandy
Sr Member
yowza, nice work.
War Poodle
Member
I'm going to be getting started again with this project in the next few weeks.
I made a glove mold using latex with a fiberglass jacket. Which I kind of knew wasn't going to work as well as I wanted it to do but I gave it a bash anyway. I went much worse than I thought. The shrinkage on the latex was just insane, I think it must have shrunk by 10% and when I demolded my original it took same of the detail off with it.
It was and ugly, warped and smelly mold and ended up in the bin. Lessons learnt.
So I'll be rebuilding the detail and making a silicone mold in the next week or so. Any mold suggestions would be great. I think I'm going to attempt a matrix mold.
One thing I wanted to talk about with my Pipboy is the bottom forearm section. I have a really good side shot reference picture for this part and think mine might be the only one that incorporates this part of the design.
What I've been calling the coupler is tapered to match up with the wrist section. I've tapered mine but most Pipboys I've seen are flat.
I made a glove mold using latex with a fiberglass jacket. Which I kind of knew wasn't going to work as well as I wanted it to do but I gave it a bash anyway. I went much worse than I thought. The shrinkage on the latex was just insane, I think it must have shrunk by 10% and when I demolded my original it took same of the detail off with it.
It was and ugly, warped and smelly mold and ended up in the bin. Lessons learnt.
So I'll be rebuilding the detail and making a silicone mold in the next week or so. Any mold suggestions would be great. I think I'm going to attempt a matrix mold.
One thing I wanted to talk about with my Pipboy is the bottom forearm section. I have a really good side shot reference picture for this part and think mine might be the only one that incorporates this part of the design.
What I've been calling the coupler is tapered to match up with the wrist section. I've tapered mine but most Pipboys I've seen are flat.
War Poodle
Member
The benefit of making your prop out of standard plumbing tube stock is that most standard pipe fittings will attach to it.
I've used a 4" pan connector as a stand for my pip-boy to make it easier to make my mold. I'll fit this onto a 90° connector so that it will sit parallel to my bench and I can rotate it while I'm applying silicone.
This would probably make more sense with pictures.... Either way it's going to be a success this time. I can feel it.
I've used a 4" pan connector as a stand for my pip-boy to make it easier to make my mold. I'll fit this onto a 90° connector so that it will sit parallel to my bench and I can rotate it while I'm applying silicone.
This would probably make more sense with pictures.... Either way it's going to be a success this time. I can feel it.
GhostMinion
Sr Member
Not sure how I've been missing this thread................
Looks great man!:thumbsup
Looks great man!:thumbsup
War Poodle
Member
Thanks chaps!
I'm at a bit of an impasse at the moment. I cant decide whether to do a brush on silicone glove mold or to make matrix mold for it.
The matrix mold is the pro choice but I'm worried about air getting caught in the detailed parts of the model.
If I brush it on is there any way of smoothing the silicone to a better finish on the outer layers?
I'm at a bit of an impasse at the moment. I cant decide whether to do a brush on silicone glove mold or to make matrix mold for it.
The matrix mold is the pro choice but I'm worried about air getting caught in the detailed parts of the model.
If I brush it on is there any way of smoothing the silicone to a better finish on the outer layers?
GhostMinion
Sr Member
I know what you mean, trying to decide the very same thing with the Ballistic Fist I'm starting on. I think a matrix mold would be awesome, but I'm thinking of just doing a glove mold. I've got some time, though, before I'm ready to make a mold anyways. Very interested to see which you decide to go with.
War Poodle
Member
So I went with another brush on mold. My theory on this was that it would use less silicone, I could control the air bubble situation better and it would be quicker.
I dont think I've saved any silicone. In fact i think Ive wasted more by having to mix it up in batches to brush on to the mold. Each cup wastes about a tablespoon of silicone and it all adds up!
I did control the air bubbles quite well, Even though I've been told by other model makers that they have no issues with bubbles in matrix molds.
Time wise I've probably spent as much time mixing and brushing as i would have sculpting and pouring.
This looks ugly I know but after this photo was taken I added a coat of thickened silicone that I let cure for 20mins and then smoothed with a little washing up liquid on my fingers. I dont know if this will effect the silicone in any way but it's alot smoother for the fiberglass jacket to sit on.
I've used a quick clamp and my bench vice to hold the model in place while I put the sicicone on. This allowed me to rotate the model while I brushed the silicone on so that I wasted less through it dripping on the floor.
All in all I think I should have made a matrix mold but I'm Fairly sure this will turn out fine.
I dont think I've saved any silicone. In fact i think Ive wasted more by having to mix it up in batches to brush on to the mold. Each cup wastes about a tablespoon of silicone and it all adds up!
I did control the air bubbles quite well, Even though I've been told by other model makers that they have no issues with bubbles in matrix molds.
Time wise I've probably spent as much time mixing and brushing as i would have sculpting and pouring.
This looks ugly I know but after this photo was taken I added a coat of thickened silicone that I let cure for 20mins and then smoothed with a little washing up liquid on my fingers. I dont know if this will effect the silicone in any way but it's alot smoother for the fiberglass jacket to sit on.
I've used a quick clamp and my bench vice to hold the model in place while I put the sicicone on. This allowed me to rotate the model while I brushed the silicone on so that I wasted less through it dripping on the floor.
All in all I think I should have made a matrix mold but I'm Fairly sure this will turn out fine.
War Poodle
Member
I cast the wrist plate with polyurethane resin thickened with polytek polyfiber II brushed straight into an open mold.
I partially recessed the cuff section and the section that fits into the pip-boy on the mold to keep the rounded shape on that section. Im not so bothered about how the inside of this part looks as I'll more than likely be lining it with something.
War Poodle
Member
I managed to demold my Pip-boy from the silicone. I've cut a seam line halfway up the back of the silicone to help with this.
Also I got to test fit my cast wrist plate in the origional pip-boy. Fits lovely!
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