ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies Found

As Pat said, its just the crossbar, paint chips and the side/bottom of the mount sort of blending together in the image.

This other photo that was released recently shows it well, and surprisingly at almost the same exact angle..:unsure:
..I guess Mr. Ford really did practice those poses, haha

What's neat though, is we get to see the inner muzzle and a small portion of the center-hole on the falcon photo!


-Carson

CC32CC8D-082D-4BD2-8ECA-14D75705BCC12.png
 
Last edited:
you are. bottom of the mount, end of crossbar. angles and lighting play havoc with perception.

Look at this image.

Same details but look what the center thumbscrew looks like. How far it seems to stick out and how thin the knob looks...

Thank goodness we have many images to sort it out better.

The little rectangle is just the paint chips on the end of the crossbar and shadows and reflections.

But this image does show the barrel restrictor.


View attachment 1565945


and here a little different.

View attachment 1565949
nice, thank you! That's quite a paint chip.

And yea, at least we know the knob hovered a little bit, definitely looks more and less based on the angle.
 
I think it's just the timeline of the photos, the Chronicles/Top-view photos are post production as far as we can tell, and the others you posted are possibly during production or sometime shortly beforehand..it's hard to tell for sure with the 'blue-background' photo sets..
But certainly some of the best photos we have, for sure!

I would really, really love to see a good, clear top-view photo though.


-Carson
 
My assumption is that Todd took measurements from original parts for his. He’s very thorough, and from what I can tell (haven’t checked numbers), his are close to spot on. But this, this is better. :)
 
I think that his are from the last of the Reade kits before the molds were bought out (which were getting a tad worn those many years later due to age, usage and all) and the company shut down..sad for the model plane enthusiasts though, they take that just as serious as any hobbyist does, despite the hobby.

I can't attest to the accuracy of the dimensions since I've never owned a set of his, but reverse engineering can be a bit tricky sometimes. Though the bead blast texture is a tad inaccurate though.
When I measured my sets, one set from the early 80's and another from the 60's, I tried my best to find the differences between the 9 cylinders and 19 antennas to get a common average (Pat has the other 10th/20th set ;)). I wanted Pat to have a clean/originally molded set. He's been the most honest, trustworthy person I've ever met online and although different mindsets in some areas, we bounced off of each other in a perfect way. He had ideas when I was lost and likewise, I think.. All we wanted was as close to accuracy as we were capable of.

Plastic shrinks when injection molded, especially in areas that vary in thickness like the tapered hollows. That's why I tried my hardest to find all of the variances in the ones I have..after all, I'd been searching along with all of us here to find these darn things since I was a kid, easily my favorite prop greeblies ever! :D


-Carson
 
Last edited:
I didn’t realized Reades had changed over the years? But they have clearly as I have what must be from one of the last runs Reades ever did before they sadly had to close their doors. In the ones I received there is an inside filet on the inside/underside of the model now. There is even really small inside filet on the top side as well but that might be from how the plastic molds itself? At least that how my eyes had seen it. Good to know the originals didn’t have that. I wouldn’t never have known otherwise. The inside tapper I fully missed on my designing of them as well. Looking at the model I can see it now that it has been pointed out. Thanks Carson!

Todd’s do I own as well. His are very accurate but a little short and made of a more brittle plastic compared to the OG’s. The plastic as well has a strange texture to it compared to the Reads model. Here both side by side for comparison. Again this is the newer version of Reades. Can you tell which is which?
A7EB9EE0-647A-401F-92F6-532F675295ED.jpeg
C6692AED-15E4-4C89-8385-1AF2746422E9.jpeg
4CE07C42-12C3-4A48-8484-106283157969.jpeg
 
Thanks for the kind words! I can say the same about you... to a fault. Defiantly an easy going ego free collaboration. And of course with the help and input of the rest of this threads RPF community! Was exciting times!

I cherish that original set you gave me Carson! I was tempted to use them on my prop but couldn't bring myself to ! ; )

Finding these greeblies after all the years and others searching was an incredible feat. I still can't believe you found them! A man possessed. Maybe you used the force? ; ) Must be one of the all time great discoveries in RPF history. Along with all the other discoveries made in these pages. Deadbolt=GOAT of the ANH dl44 IMO.

There is a distinct difference from the vintage parts to the modern injections, even from the "original tooling" Injection molds wear after time, especially un-hardened older steel molds. Aluminum molds are right out... ; )

The parting line will begin to wear and allow the "flash" we all know from model kits. The mold doesn't quite close tightly and allows a bit of plastic to seep at first getting worse and worse as time goes by until the tool needs to be re-ground and polished. This tends to change dimensions and even shape eventually. A round headed antenna may look a bit oblong after a while or the parting line shifts a bit leaving a rim edge etc.

I still laugh remembering how flustered and overwhelmed the old guy was when he started to get dozens or hundreds of orders for NEW injection from a model kit he was used to making only a few parts each year!
 
I didn’t realized Reades had changed over the years? But they have clearly as I have what must be from one of the last runs Reades ever did before they sadly had to close their doors. In the ones I received there is an inside filet on the inside/underside of the model now. There is even really small inside filet on the top side as well but that might be from now the plastic molds itself? At least that how my eyes had seen it. Good to know the originals didn’t have that. I wouldn’t never have known otherwise. The inside tapper I fully missed on my designing of them as well. Looking at the model I can see it now that it has been pointed out. Thanks Carson!

Todd’s do I own as well. His are very accurate but a little short and made of a more brittle plastic compared to the OG’s. The plastic as well has a strange texture to it compared to the Reads model. Here both side by side for comparison. Again this is the newer version of Reades. Can you tell which is which?View attachment 1575359View attachment 1575360View attachment 1575361
I haven't seen the last Reade's or Todd's parts but It looks like the Todd's (right... unless I need glasses) has possible 3d print texture? Could be injected in a 3d printed aluminum mold that they didn't bother to polish smooth? They would do this to save money and time. Just take the 3d scan or printed 3d part and reverse it to 3d print an aluminum mold.

Injection molds always have a taper to release the part from the mold. 2 degrees is standard. Small round push pin marks can sometimes be seen that help knock the part out of the mold.
 
Yep Todd’s is the one on the right. I didn’t realize they would have used a 3d printed mold? That makes sense as to what you are saying. Yes the texture is clearly visible on the part but not on the bottom half strangely?
B420E618-06FB-4082-BD35-9AB61EB562AE.jpeg
 
Yep Todd’s is the one on the right. I didn’t realize they would have used a 3d printed mold? That makes sense as to what you are saying. Yes the texture is clearly visible on the part but not on the bottom half strangely? View attachment 1575421
Yep.
Fast molds can be made by 3d printing. Wont last super long but then they just make another one.

The wide end cylinder area ( the deep area that the fins stick off of) is smoother because they probably stuck a finger in the mold with sand paper and smoothed that area a bit. That surface would be the surface they could reach easily in the mold. The fins- being reversed and deep in the mold would be too much bother for these repros and price point no doubt.

Not sure why they skipped the upper area. but hey... $$... ; )
 
Back
Top